Squealing noise from behind glove box

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Rocket Man

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I have been hearing an intermittent squealing noise from behind the glove box area on my '02 Denali. It sounds similar to a slow-speed fan but any changes I make to the heater controls have no effect, including turning the fan off or onto high. It lasts for quite a while at times and I can't determine what activates it. Could this be the passenger blend door and if so how hard is it to replace? It seems if it's a blend door, it should change sound or stop when I change from defrost to floor heat or turn the system off. Help!
 
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Rocket Man

Rocket Man

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Update: I think it may be related to the recirc function. It seems to change noise when Ihit the recirc button. Is there a recirc door actuator on these? I've only heard of all the problems with the blend dfoor actuators. I'll try to tear into it this weekend.
 
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Rocket Man

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Now I can't get it to do it again; it's only happened 3-4 times in the last year, twice last week 2 days in a row. Strange. It's real loud when it happens though, almost like some animal is dying it's last breath. I'm surprised nobody else has had this problem.
 

smitty504

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I have this same problem on my 02 Tahoe. It seems to be the worst on mine when the blower is below the 2 setting. If you find a fix I want to know about it.
 
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Rocket Man

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I leave mine on auto but when this happens, the blower setting doesn't have any effect on the sound. It's only made a couple light squeals lately. I have tried to make it do it but nothing seems to set it off or affect it once it's happening. I thought it was related to the recirc function but I have turned that on and off many times and the sound doesn't come back. I guess if I can't get it to do it I can't fix it!
 

smitty504

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I was searching through threads here and it seems as though it's the recirc actuator that is the culprit. But seems like a pain to get to.
 
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Rocket Man

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That's what I was thinking. I hope it stays quiet until the weather warms up. I don't have a garage big enough to work on it in. I think the dash has to be removed to replace it.
 
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Rocket Man

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Success! I replaced the recirc door actuator today. What a pain in the ass. Almost gave up a couple of times, afraid I'd never get things back together if I kept prying on things to make room. Had to remove the dash cover (not hard, followed instructions from the tech how-to master list) but then I could only see a tiny part of the actuator. Pulled all the fasteners from the ductwork but it would barely move so I forced it back to clear the outlet holes, and up, then got a 2' tire iron and pried up using the metal back by the windshield to pry against and about 5-6" of wood blocks resting on the front metal framework of the dash to hold the front of the bar up. This gave me just enough room to get a hand through there and remove the one screw I could see. Sparky's video listed it as 5.5 mm but a 6 mm 1/4" drive socket worked. The back screw was a real challenge; it's impossible to see. I used a short screwdriver handle with a socket adapter and got it out blind. Barely. A tiny bit of a turn at a time. (It didn't get reinstalled). Then I had to hook a piece of wire onto the door and move it back and forth with my right hand while I tried installing the actuator with my left hand until it finally slipped into place. Wow. There is one locator pin and one screw in the new one and it felt solid. There was no way the back screw was going back in without completely removing the ductwork which would take hours. Started the truck, left the controls alone for 5 minutes in case it needed to relearn anything, then hit the recirc button and...it works! Nice and quiet and I can see the door opening and closing. I could see from the position that the old one was in when I removed it that it was in recirc mode all the time before even though it was set for fresh air. That must have been why it would occasionally start squealing- it would try to move the door to the correct position and eventually give up. Total cost was $53 from RockAuto and 2 hours of my time. I've heard of $500 and up quotes from shops to replace this part. The service manual states to remove the ductwork completely. I think in order to do that the entire dash frame and sub frames have to come out.
 

05Single

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All that work and no pics?!! Lol jk
But seriously glad you got it figured out and 2 hrs ain't too bad, I'm sure if you had to do it again you would cut that time in half ;)
 
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Rocket Man

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Yeah I was so involved that I didn't even think about pictures until I was done. But now my blower fan is starting to make noise so it looks like that's next. I'll try to remember pictures when I do it.
 

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