Start Towing with 114K miles on my Yukon?

[randyg]

Welcome to the family! You’re getting some great advice here from people used to towing with these trucks. The Equalizer is a great hitch.

All the same, I’ll just add one more option for a WDH setup. I have the Camco Recurve R3 and love it for towing our 6500 lb camper. It was inexpensive, easy to install, has the sway control integrated into the ball mount so I can make tight turns and back it up without removing the sway control, and it does a great job of both distributing weight and controlling sway. Most of all, I like that the weight bars don’t hang down, but rather run alongside the a-frame arms, making for more ground clearance and a cleaner profile.

I installed it when we bought our latest camper. Did the ball mount and initial assembly at home, and then installed the bar mounts and bars at the dealer when I picked up the camper. Took me a weekend of making adjustments to get it set up just right, but now it’s perfect.


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Thanks. New to towing. So with a regular (Equalizer) hitch, do you have to remove the sway bars to back up or turn tight?

 

[Geotrash]

Thanks. New to towing. So with a regular (Equalizer) hitch, do you have to remove the sway bars to back up or turn tight?

No. Sorry if I added confusion with my comment. The Equalizer is a great hitch with excellent sway control, according to those who own them. I've never owned one so just wanted to throw out a less expensive but also good option. My last WDH was the Harbor Freight special, and while it worked fine, it required a separately attached sway control that was inconvenient to use.

One other thing I forgot to mention is the main reason I bought it, apart from price: The sway control is adjustable with an included Allen wrench, and can be turned completely off, which is important for towing in winter conditions, which we sometimes do.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Chem-4...recurve+r3&qid=1619021714&s=automotive&sr=1-4

 

[randyg]

No. Sorry if I added confusion with my comment. The Equalizer is a great hitch with excellent sway control, according to those who own them. I've never owned one so just wanted to throw out a less expensive but also good option. My last WDH was the Harbor Freight special, and while it worked fine, it required a separately attached sway control that was inconvenient to use.

Thanks for the clarification!

 

[bigdog9191999]

I have a wdh but not an equalizer brand. it uses bars with chains. most standard style wdh's wont need any changes to back up or turn as long as your not turning super super tight

 

[randyg]

I have a wdh but not an equalizer brand. it uses bars with chains. most standard style wdh's wont need any changes to back up or turn as long as your not turning super super tight

Thanks!

 

[Geotrash]

I have a wdh but not an equalizer brand. it uses bars with chains. most standard style wdh's wont need any changes to back up or turn as long as your not turning super super tight

The WDH itself isn't the issue, typically. It's the sway control mechanism, which is optional for many conventional WDH systems. Many of them are similar in concept to a screen door gas cylinder and attach to the a-frame on one end, and an ear on the hitch ball flange on the other. As a result, they need to be disconnected before any tight turns or reversing.

 

[randyg]

The WDH itself isn't the issue, typically. It's the sway control mechanism, which is optional for many conventional WDH systems. Many of them are similar in concept to a screen door gas cylinder and attach to the a-frame on one end, and an ear on the hitch ball flange on the other. As a result, they need to be disconnected before any tight turns or reversing.

Thanks!

 

[Foggy]

The equalizer does NOT require you to make any changes for backing or parking
in tight areas... It does however make a popping noise... that's normal and
does not damage anything.
With a regular WD hitch with the Sway Bar that you attach separate ,
So the bar and chain style with the bar that adjusts and attaches to the tiny
little hitch balls..
You DO have to loosen the tension on that type of sway control bar or
you'll tear it up when backing/parking/tight turns
SO the equalizer style has a couple of advantages once it's adjusted PROPERLY

 

[randyg]

The equalizer does NOT require you to make any changes for backing or parking
in tight areas... It does however make a popping noise... that's normal and
does not damage anything.
With a regular WD hitch with the Sway Bar that you attach separate ,
So the bar and chain style with the bar that adjusts and attaches to the tiny
little hitch balls..
You DO have to loosen the tension on that type of sway control bar or
you'll tear it up when backing/parking/tight turns
SO the equalizer style has a couple of advantages once it's adjusted PROPERLY

Good to know, thanks. I have heard that sound on others' rigs, I hate that. I did see a video lately that had some little plastic tabs that looked like you put them on the bracket underneath where the bar goes that are supposed to help with the noise. I'm for sure gonna have a set of those!

 

[randyg]

If one has JL1, the Integrated Trailer Brake Controller, the wire that was stored along the fender next to the fuse box will already be attached. The "hotel" wire or "Live" wire is coiled up under the brake booster. I reckon it's not connected so as to avoid potential grounding problems if it is not regularly used. We've towed with our truck utility trailers and have no use for it at present.

Someone on here once hooked up both the factory and aftermarket controllers at the same time and experienced all kinds of problems that the manufacturer said would happen. Don't be that guy.

Just thought of this: The trailer dealer had to hook up the factory controller to the battery...but he hooked it up to a second battery I have (an AGM) that runs a fridge in the back. It has a battery isolator switch, and I'm wondering if that might be why I'm getting the "Service Stabilitrack" warning light once in a while (not continuously). Do you know if there is enough wire to reach the Chassis battery and I can hook it up there? Thanks.