Still all over the road after rebuild and alignment

[east302]

It probably doesn’t matter. If they were the cause of that much slop, I’d think that there would be some obvious movement in the joints when rocking a tire from side to side.








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[PG01]

Check this out

https://www.gmt400.com/threads/how-to-adjust-the-steering-box.1599/

 

[Squirrelsmith]

Check this out

https://www.gmt400.com/threads/how-to-adjust-the-steering-box.1599/

Yep thats what i did. It helped quite a bit but i think a new steering box would really be the ticket

 

[1998Suburban]

I was ready to condemn the steering box in mine but the Pitman arm was the real culprit. I checked for play in the old joint on the Pitman and didn't find much until I popped it free. My path was opposite yours. I dropped the steering box & replaced the Pitman first, then moved to the front suspension. In the end she needed everything.

Not sure if it makes a difference but the ball joints may have different tolerances. I used USA made Moog upper & lower ball joints.

 

[fastpat]

Interesting thread, always love good information. Because we have low traffic in the OBS forums, I'm reviving this thread.

I'm starting on the front suspension replacement, because it wonders a bit. The Yukon has 130k miles on OEM parts. I'm going with all Moog balljoints/parts.

 

[Squirrelsmith]

doing idler, pitman, gearbox and replacing the rag joint with a u joint. if i aint driving straight after this i give up

 

[fastpat]

The first upper A-arm, the right, arrived today, the rest are due Wednesday. That will be the left upper A-arm and the idler and pitman arms.

 

[fastpat]

doing idler, pitman, gearbox and replacing the rag joint with a u joint. if i aint driving straight after this i give up

I think one of the previous commenters may be right, you're running pretty large, heavy tires and wheels. One thing many folks don't add into the calculation is the actual weight of the tires and wheels, not just the overall diameter for speedometer accuracy.

So, you actually installed a new steering box, that's pretty severe. I used to adjust the non-rack and pinion steering boxes for no more than a 1/2 inch of play at the steering wheel. This is why power rack and pinion steering is superior to recirculating ball steering, no play until it's worn out.

I assume that you flushed the whole power steering system hydraulics, including replacing the hoses.

 

[Squirrelsmith]

I think one of the previous commenters may be right, you're running pretty large, heavy tires and wheels. One thing many folks don't add into the calculation is the actual weight of the tires and wheels, not just the overall diameter for speedometer accuracy.

So, you actually installed a new steering box, that's pretty severe. I used to adjust the non-rack and pinion steering boxes for no more than a 1/2 inch of play at the steering wheel. This is why power rack and pinion steering is superior to recirculating ball steering, no play until it's worn out.

I assume that you flushed the whole power steering system hydraulics, including replacing the hoses.

Yeah that was all replaced when i did my poweboost swap. I mean we have to assume that in spite of my heavier wheels this pile can be made to go in a straight line. I have to believe that for my mental health lol

 

[PatDTN]

doing idler, pitman, gearbox and replacing the rag joint with a u joint. if i aint driving straight after this i give up

If you decide to go with a U-Joint you need a pair of them ala constant velocity joint. Otherwise you get some really funky effects. If you have a swivel adapter that's like a u-joint in your toolbox try putting an angle on it and twist it and you'll see it speeds up and slows down.