Still the same problem!!!!

[ivin74]

Another year has gone by and I had to replace the purge solenoid again to pass inspection. I'm asking again if anybody has seen this problem before. Usually, after a few months, the check engine light comes on. this time it took only a couple weeks. I referred to it before, but I think it is temperature related. When it drops to 60 degrees outside it starts to tripping!!! Does anyone know anything about the tank pressure switch or something like that that is mounted next to the tank?? I read that somewhere but can't remember exactly what it was. ANY info or tips would be very appreciated. Thanks

I had this same issue, I kept changing out the purge solenoid until a good friend of mine asked if I was installing oem or aftermarket purge solenoids. I was installing the Autozone brand he then stated that those were junk, he stated to only use oem solenoids, so I did and my truck has been code free for 2yrs now. My two sense

 

[retiredsparky]

There is a huge volume of stuff coming from China and other countries that has been "reverse engineered" to duplicate/imitate oem products. It is also up to us so-called knowledgeable consumers to be aware of this dishonesty. The corner auto parts store is probably a good place to start when asking about the quality of parts, if we have a good relationship with an employee or owner. They should know what brands hold up best. Our fixation with low price certainly makes it tempting to buy that stuff, but really we should know better.

 

[Steve A]

I just watched a video on YouTube a couple nights ago about this very issue, albeit on a car. Seems the air intake for the purge valve is in the rear wheelwell and all the dust and crap gets sucked in and makes it's way all the way through the system into the engine. There are a couple filters in the purge system but they are rather coarse and are primarily just screens. The fix that particular shop came up with was running a 5/8" heater hose from the purge valve intake all the way to the engine compartment and installing a filter there, the rationale was it was a lot cleaner air in the engine compartment than the wheelwell.
Here's a link to the video:

 

[kardez]

Your mechanic should have a better tool than Autozone, he should be able to do this test and determine why you keep having to replace it, it could be your ECM or a bad wire somewhere.

P0449
1. Ignition ON, engine OFF, command the EVAP vent solenoid ON and OFF with a scan tool.
2. Listen for a click when the valve operates. Verify that both the ON, and the OFF states are commanded.
3. Operate the vehicle within the Conditions for Running the DTC. You may also operate the vehicle within
the conditions that you observed from the Freeze Frame/Failure Records data.
CIRCUIT/SYSTEM TESTING
1. Ignition OFF, disconnect the harness connector at the EVAP canister purge or vent solenoid valve.
2. Ignition ON, verify that a test lamp illuminates between the voltage supply circuit terminal A and ground.
 If the test lamp does not illuminate, test the voltage supply circuit for a short to ground or an
open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal and the voltage supply circuit fuse is open, test or
replace the EVAP canister purge solenoid.
3. Connect a test lamp between the voltage supply circuit terminal A and the control circuit terminal B.
4. Command the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve to 50 percent with a scan tool, or the EVAP canister
vent solenoid valve ON and OFF. The test lamp should respond to the command.
 If the test lamp is always ON, test the control circuit for a short to ground. If the circuit tests
normal, replace the ECM.
 If the test lamp is always OFF, test the control circuit for a short to voltage or an open/high
resistance. If the circuit tests normal, replace the ECM.
5. If all circuits test normal, replace the appropriate solenoid valve.

I went back to my shop and realized the code I am getting is the P0455. Does everything you listed above coincide with the P0455 code also?

 

[Scottydoggs]

thats a evap code for a large leak. aka busted line between the engine and gas tank, (not a gas leak, pressure leak) could be under the hood, or at the back from the tank to charcoal canister. https://www.obd-codes.com/p0455

sometimes its as simple as a bad gas cap.

a smoke test will show this if you cant see anything clearly broken.

most of the time you wont notice anything but the cel being on.

 

[kardez]

thats a evap code for a large leak. aka busted line between the engine and gas tank, (not a gas leak, pressure leak) could be under the hood, or at the back from the tank to charcoal canister. https://www.obd-codes.com/p0455

sometimes its as simple as a bad gas cap.

a smoke test will show this if you cant see anything clearly broken.

most of the time you wont notice anything but the cel being on.

we did two smoke test and i'm on my second gas cap. this one is from GM. the light just came back on today after 7 weeks when we replaced the solenoid.

 

[Scottydoggs]

ill direct you back to page one, get a canned tune and ditch the evap system all together. you got a issue thats not likely worth $$$ chasing anymore.

a tune will make the truck feel much better too.

 

[kardez]

ill direct you back to page one, get a canned tune and ditch the evap system all together. you got a issue thats not likely worth $$$ chasing anymore.

a tune will make the truck feel much better too.

I appreciate your helpful information. I think you are right... I feel like a dog chasing my tail. Not to sound dumb, but what do you mean by canned tune? and ditching the evap system??? won't that effect my inspection test here in texas?

 

[Scottydoggs]

when they scan your truck at inspection all they are looking for is all systems to be "ready" some scanners so it as "im readness" this shows them you cat, o2 evap egr and so on are working right.

in the tune you can set codes to no report, once all codes for that item are deleted as we say the system just shows "ready" and you pass inspection.

ive got my egr, evap, cat, rear o2 all deleted in my regal gs. a solid 25 codes in all. i blow right through inspection here with a obd2 scan.

black bear one of the vendors here, they should be able to take care of this for ya. they also can do remote tuning for ya should you change things, like larger wheels and tires, cam headers and so on. at least i recall reading that somewhere. i like to tune my own stuff.

im buying hp tuners this week myself. stock tunes suck.

 

[kardez]

when they scan your truck at inspection all they are looking for is all systems to be "ready" some scanners so it as "im readness" this shows them you cat, o2 evap egr and so on are working right.

in the tune you can set codes to no report, once all codes for that item are deleted as we say the system just shows "ready" and you pass inspection.

ive got my egr, evap, cat, rear o2 all deleted in my regal gs. a solid 25 codes in all. i blow right through inspection here with a obd2 scan.

black bear one of the vendors here, they should be able to take care of this for ya. they also can do remote tuning for ya should you change things, like larger wheels and tires, cam headers and so on. at least i recall reading that somewhere. i like to tune my own stuff.

im buying hp tuners this week myself. stock tunes suck.

i'll look into that. Thanks again!