Hey what's up guys, quick question for you all. So I've been debating wheher to go with a level front end or keeping it stock. I know, I know it's literally my decision but I first want to get peoples opinion and experiences. So if I were to go with an aftermarket key which brand is the best to go with supreme suspension, rough country, suspensionmaxx, ebay, Amazon, etc. I also heard you can get a nice level when you crank the stock keys and flip the tabs any one heard of this? What are the issues I may run into if I go with aftermarket or cranking. Don'I plan on buying a lift kit or going coilover i just want to get rid of the rake look especially when braking.
Stock keys, cranked keys, or aftermarket
- Thread starter KonXL
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Chubbs
Full Access Member
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This
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-2006-...k-Extenders-/292386159535?hash=item441392bbaf
& this
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Monroe-Sho...ash=item1c840e99ca:g:S2sAAOSwz71ZXKHU&vxp=mtr
You will be good to roll. Don't go trying to jack it up 2-1/2" --- just rent the GM torsion bar unloading tool from a big-box auto store, get the keys swapped out & reinsert the TB bolts just enough to begin getting tension on the new keys. Drop the truck back down off the jacks and see how much more you need to go up with the front to have the chassis completely level. Somebody will chime in with the ratio of bolt turns to the height raised/lowered. Then you just torque the bolt up another couple turns, bounce the front end, roll it back & forth to settle the suspension & recheck for level. I highly suggest new shocks if you don't have brand new 1s on the truck already. With new shocks I would make the front perfectly level and it should settle down 1/4" lower than the back end.
The wheels will need aligning immediately following. FYI, all aftermarket keys are the same; the $20 are exact same as the $200 pieces. Well, there is 1 manufacturer who does make a legit $200 t/b key but it's overkill for all intents & purposes. and no, don't max out the stock keys or go flipping them over. That's more hillbilly than the whole "leveling key" concept, itself.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-2006-...k-Extenders-/292386159535?hash=item441392bbaf
& this
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Monroe-Sho...ash=item1c840e99ca:g:S2sAAOSwz71ZXKHU&vxp=mtr
You will be good to roll. Don't go trying to jack it up 2-1/2" --- just rent the GM torsion bar unloading tool from a big-box auto store, get the keys swapped out & reinsert the TB bolts just enough to begin getting tension on the new keys. Drop the truck back down off the jacks and see how much more you need to go up with the front to have the chassis completely level. Somebody will chime in with the ratio of bolt turns to the height raised/lowered. Then you just torque the bolt up another couple turns, bounce the front end, roll it back & forth to settle the suspension & recheck for level. I highly suggest new shocks if you don't have brand new 1s on the truck already. With new shocks I would make the front perfectly level and it should settle down 1/4" lower than the back end.
The wheels will need aligning immediately following. FYI, all aftermarket keys are the same; the $20 are exact same as the $200 pieces. Well, there is 1 manufacturer who does make a legit $200 t/b key but it's overkill for all intents & purposes. and no, don't max out the stock keys or go flipping them over. That's more hillbilly than the whole "leveling key" concept, itself.
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I just finished buying some bilstein 5100s because my autolevel gave out. Figured with those front shocks I have the option To go leveled or stock since theyre for 0-2.5 applications
I ordered Bilsteans today too! Going to go with amazon lift as many have from KSP vendor. Don't forgot to get the Moog 81069 Rear coil springs as well. Excited to put on my 275/60r20 Terra Grappler G2s
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06VWN1QLS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A4NF81FPG7ST1&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00498ZR7A/ref=ox_sc_act_image_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
Also good to replace your insulators. You'll need 4
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002M6C0SA/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06VWN1QLS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A4NF81FPG7ST1&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00498ZR7A/ref=ox_sc_act_image_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
Also good to replace your insulators. You'll need 4
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002M6C0SA/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
For sure been doing research on the parts but I'm still debating if I should also lift the rear or keep it stock and just do the front
Mm with 33x11 I don't want to add the rear spacers. I would rather keep the CV angles to a minimum.
People have reported getting 2" just from z71 springs and some have reported only getting 0.5" from them. So best bet is to install them and see where you are at.
People have reported getting 2" just from z71 springs and some have reported only getting 0.5" from them. So best bet is to install them and see where you are at.
Spoolin
Member
I'm in the exact same boat as the OP and just want to bring the front up a bit on my 06 to have it just at or below level as if it were new. Was told the Ford F-150 keys were the ones to get. I saw a pic of them compared to stock keys and noticed the hexagon was positioned differently than the stock. Was wondering if that's all that would be needed since it would have the rod turned a bit to go in the keys and bolt back into place. Don't want anything extra or extreme, just stock tires and rims and looking normal.....not like my Z is a coke addict and sniffing the white lines down the highway.
I'm not interested in bigger tires or rear coils or what rim and tire combos look the best, and the OP didn't mention any of that crap either, so please keep this on topic because THAT is what is important to me and presumably the original poster. Sharing of information is great and appreciated at times, but that shit is worthless if the info is not what one wanted to know. Sorry for the rant, didn't shoot too well in a match tonight, only to drive home from Nashville and catch the end of the game, OT and Nick Saban's smiling ass on tv. Punk *****
I'm not interested in bigger tires or rear coils or what rim and tire combos look the best, and the OP didn't mention any of that crap either, so please keep this on topic because THAT is what is important to me and presumably the original poster. Sharing of information is great and appreciated at times, but that shit is worthless if the info is not what one wanted to know. Sorry for the rant, didn't shoot too well in a match tonight, only to drive home from Nashville and catch the end of the game, OT and Nick Saban's smiling ass on tv. Punk *****
BigDaddy13440
Full Access Member
The keys below are a stock Chevy key on the bottom, and an F150/Expedition lift key on the top. You can see how much more the Ford keys are indexed... in fact, TOO much. Mind you, these are LIFT keys for the Ford, a stock Ford key wouldn't have as much difference.
I have these at zero extra crank, the passenger side is resting on the little bar in the TB key mount with the bolt just to snug, and the driver's side has about 3 turns, just enough to bring both up to the same ride height. I'd say I'm at just about 3" of lift with these keys. My upper control arms were practically resting on the stops, so I pie-cut the underside, and bent them down about 3/8", and tack-welded them back together. A free-travel mod for us lifted guys, if you want to call it that. My fender heights with 34.1" tall tires (275/65/20's) are at 39 3/4" front and 40 1/2" rear.
IMO, if all you want to do is bring the front up a bit to make it match the rear, there is no need to buy ANY aftermarket keys, unless your torsion bars are worn out. The stock keys have enough room to be cranked up, nearly 2". If you do add keys to raise up over 2", then the rear end will be lower, unless you either add Z71 springs, rear coil spacers, or both.
