Tahoe idle oil pressure

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Rocket Man

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Just thinking about putting the differential back on after I'm done with everything, I'm considering just removing the whole steering linkage that goes through it, the tie rods, idler arm and pitman arm bolts. It would make it juristically easier to get in.
I’ve done the front diff on my 02 Denali, pretty sure I just removed the pitman arm with a puller. IIRC it wasn’t that hard.
 
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JPVortex

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I’ve done the front diff on my 02 Denali, pretty sure I just removed the pitman arm with a puller. IIRC it wasn’t that hard.
I may just remove the castle nut and cotter pin on that and the idler arm and also remove the tie rods, which will clear a ton of room. I was able to battle it out without removing anything but I have a feeling trying to brute strength it back in is going to be even more difficult and tiring.
 

Rocket Man

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I may just remove the castle nut and cotter pin on that and the idler arm and also remove the tie rods, which will clear a ton of room. I was able to battle it out without removing anything but I have a feeling trying to brute strength it back in is going to be even more difficult and tiring.
You’ll still need the puller i believe after removing the castle nut. I think I used a floor jack to lift it up but I think I had to rotate it as it went up or something. Now that I remember the steering being in the way it was a PIA after all. This is why when I did the oil pan I just let it hang.
 

dougo

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wow i am sure glade i did not pull the diff I did start and ran the truck yesterday 10 pounds more oil pressure on cold start , I Have not seen that much oil pressure in a while. and no ticking, I will post a follow up next week when i am done with the other work and drive it.

The O Ring was very loose compared to the new almost got a face full of pick up tube.
 

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Rocket Man

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wow i am sure glade i did not pull the diff I did start and ran the truck yesterday 10 pounds more oil pressure on cold start , I Have not seen that much oil pressure in a while. and no ticking, I will post a follow up next week when i am done with the other work and drive it.
Post pics of the old o-ring too if you have them.
 
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JPVortex

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Here is a picture of my old o ring, definitely pretty flat.

There was some concern online about the felpro replacement I bought being too big for the tube, but side by side the old and new look almost identical.

Also read that the felpro is made for the recessed design, which is what I have.

20230117_213907.jpg20230117_213859.jpg
 

iamdub

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wow i am sure glade i did not pull the diff I did start and ran the truck yesterday 10 pounds more oil pressure on cold start , I Have not seen that much oil pressure in a while. and no ticking, I will post a follow up next week when i am done with the other work and drive it.

The O Ring was very loose compared to the new almost got a face full of pick up tube.

So you're back to where it was a few months ago. :thumbsup:
 

Blackcar

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I don't know if it states on package, but I would think the materiel O-ring is made from is important. Looks like they should be made from Fluorocarbon (Viton).
 
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JPVortex

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Rocket Man

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I don't know if it states on package, but I would think the materiel O-ring is made from is important. Looks like they should be made from Fluorocarbon (Viton).
That’s what the best valve seals are made of. I used Viton seals on both my trucks when I did cams and dual valve springs.
 

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