Tahoe suffered a thermal event . . .

What to do


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IRQVET

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So its been a while since I last logged in. Babies, career change, relocation have kept me pretty busy. My trusty stead has still been my daily driver and until last week its only been in the repair shop twice in 164k miles of use. All in all, my rig has been bullet proof and a very reliable Chevy.

Last week my AC stopped working. I took it into a shop here in Lake Tahoe and I was told some "stop leak" I used in the radiator (its been so long ago I actually forgot I used it) gummed up my entire system; requiring a complete overhaul of my AC system which they wanted $4,200 to mitigate. I think they saw an out of state plate and tried to pull one over on me. I'm in Lake Tahoe for work, but over the 4th of July holiday I went back home and got the AC repaired for $345.00

On my way back to Lake Tahoe I was traveling on the freeway when all of a sudden I look down and my temp gauge is spiked. I cut the truck off and coasted off the side of the road. What occurred was that my radiator cap came loose and all heat caused the radiator fluid to come flying out at highway speeds. I let the Tahoe sit for about an hour to cool off while I filled the radiator. An hour later, the truck fired up fine, but as soon as I gave it some gas it was obvious I blew a head gasket.

So now I'm at an impasse. Do I get the head gasket fixed at a cost of around $1,100; or do I pop for GM crate motor and be all in at $4,000?

Here is my dilemma:

- I hate debt! So I don't want a car payment.
- If I repair the motor, it still has 164K so realistically, how long will it last. . .
- I hate debt! I don't have $4,000 to repair it so I'd have to put it on the old Visa. (Double edged sword)
- The rest of the rig is solid and everything works great (I baby this rig, its been adult owned)

The $4,000 dollars would cover the cost of the crate motor, new distributor, new water pump, new thermostat, new radiator, new heater coil, and a new AC compressor. All other components would have to swapped over from the old engine to the new one. (This figure includes the wrench time by a mechanic) (All parts are AC Delco)

Anyone been in this position and willing to offer me some of your hindsight 20/20? I love my Tahoe, but in all reality I'll sink in more money than its actually worth. But I love the truck so, so to an extent, I'm willing to eat the cost of depreciation since I enjoy owning this rig/ driving something not very many people have.

Playing devils advocate, it could use to be repainted as the original paint is beginning to peal. But i used to paint aircraft, so this is something I could do in my garage. (Just making sure you have all the variables) I cannot however, do any repair stuff myself. I am no mechanic by any means . . .

my truck.jpg
 
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ivin74

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At 164k miles you are at half the life span of the motor, I would just repair the head gasket and use the rest of the money for future repairs.
 

Kenny D

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If you were spiked on the temp gauge, do you know how long you were running hot. The reason I am asking, I basically had the same thing happen with my 99 burb. I only drove it for a few miles to limp it home, and I ended up with 2 cracked heads. At most if I was to replace the gaskets, I would at least take the heads to a shop to have them checked for cracks and then have them worked if they are ok. You already will have them off. I got 2 rebuilt heads for Autozone for $399 each and new head bolts are a must. Does the price you quoted for head gasket repair include the heads? I did mine in a weekend in my driveway and saved a ton on shop labor. You can rent the tools if you do not have them.
 
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IRQVET

IRQVET

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If you were spiked on the temp gauge, do you know how long you were running hot. Does the price you quoted for head gasket repair include the heads? I did mine in a weekend in my driveway and saved a ton on shop labor. You can rent the tools if you do not have them.

I have no idea how long it was running hot. (I wish I did) The head gasket repair does in fact include the heads.
 

My99Yukon

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I had a similar decision to make about 50k miles ago. Dexcool ate my gaskets, coolant intrusion and cracked block. At 140K, the car was a "push, pull, tow" tradein that I could get maybe $1800 for against a shiny new/used vehicle with monthly payments and more depreciation and again have an $1800 truck in a few years.

I bit the bullet, put in a crate (although I now wish I had upgraded it) and drove it for nearly 45K miles with hardly any repairs and just maintenance.

About 5K miles ago, after a scary moment in rain on the freeway (later discovered to be worn bushings and tired suspension), I decided that I either had to sell it or rehabilitate the old Yukon.

I decided to make a project out of it and work on it when I had time and money. Little chunks at a time. You said "I cannot however, do any repair stuff myself. I am no mechanic by any means . . ."

Well, I had never worked on any vehicle but as I said on my thread Project 99 Yukon, and I wanted to demystify the process of dropping the yukon off, picking it up a week later and paying some shop $800-$1200 at a time. So I dove in, studied on YouTube and have enjoyed (most) of the journey. It is simply amazing what you can do on a budget if you don't have to pay a mechanic for shop time. I took some of the savings and put it into upgrades that you don't necessarily need for a solid DD, but then again, when you are fixing one part, and another nearly worn part is out and staring you in the face, you might as well replace that while you are there. Call it creep, or snowball effect, everyone has been there, but it just makes sense since you have 90% of time invested in getting the originally planned repair done.

So when I was planning my repairs, I looked at what I could do at the same time with just the additional cost of a few parts. A year later, much of the truck as been worked over, it drives like a new yuk/hoe, it is fun and reliable.

A great example is when I seriously had to replace my motor/transmission mounts:

The dealer wanted about $800/side. About the only way I could figure out to do it in my garage was to remove the manifold, place a block under the oil pan (thanks youtube) and gently lift the engine up. I figured since I had the manifold off, and I had pulled the plugs to avoid breaking on, it was time to do plugs, wires...and of course put headers on (ceramic to reduce temps and extend engine life)...and of course the 18 year old OEM exhaust had to go since I had recently installed a K&N Intake...and replace the O2 sensors since I now have a brand new exhaust system.

I knew this would be pricey, but the marginal cost of doing the additional work and replacing 18 year old junk made sense since I plan to keep it for another 18 years.

Lots more on my thread above, but my input is keep your favorite DD, repair the head gasket and start to fix the annoying things yourself. You might find it really rewarding.

My two cents...
 

mtl111

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If it were mine, I'd spend the extra 2,900.00 and get another engine. If you replace the heads, it's still possible that the block could be cracked. Having 164 K miles on it already, who knows what next....maybe a weak oil pump, worn lobe on the cam, worn main bearings etc. Normally these engines run for a long time, my sister's 96' Z71 has around 320K on the original engine and it still runs like a champ but one never knows!? I know it sucks, but if you love the truck and plan on keeping it, put the engine in now and be done.
 

Creese99

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Get a repair manual and go to town in that engine. You can do it yourself in a couple days. Have a couple friends on call for some help. Cost you less than 150$. If it were my truck of course.
 
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IRQVET

IRQVET

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I spoke to the boss, and she feels more comfortable replacing the head gasket because, and I quote, "If you're going to replace the engine, you might as well swap out the transmission. We don't have money for that right now. Maybe at a latter date"

She makes a good point. My Tahoe even with 164K miles, its still been given full synthetic oil changed at 3,000 mile intervals for its entire life. If my radiator cap didn't come lose causing me to lose all the coolant, the truck wouldn't have gotten so hot and caused the blown head gasket.

We'll see what transpires. I just hope when the mechanic tears into it, we don't find any surprises (fingers crossed).

Thanks everyone for the advice and input.
 
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