Temp Gauge

[strutaeng]

I also have temp gauge not moving off 160. I removed the plug from the 2 prong temp sender. Question, how do you ground out the pigtail? I used my test light and with key in on position, I have no power on the gray wire. I used a paper clip and stuck it into each terminal of pigtail. I figured that would ground out the circuit which would cause temp needle to go way past 260 but needle did not leave 160. Should I have power going to sender? How can I tell if temp gauge in cluster is the problem. Thanks.

Isn't that plug a 2-prong connector? I replaced it it on my 06 Suburban a few months ago because my pigtail connector tab broke.

I'm pretty sure the 2 prong sensors are just a resistance type. You can probably find resistance values online somewhere. I know the Haynes Manual has a table for these. Simply check resistance with a DVOM, probably with a cold engine so you know what temperature the sender should be reporting (in ohms.)

You can hook up a scanner that has live data to see what the ECU is reporting, then compare it to the instrument cluster gauge. Sometimes the clusters get taken apart to replace bulbs or stepper motors and the needles get reinstalled a bit off. Something to consider if you don't know the history on the vehicle.

 

[Pete315]

I do have the 2 prong sensor. My 81 Corvette had a 1 prong sensor. I know the Corvette would send the different resistance to the gauge from this 1 prong temp sender as the car warmed up. But with 2 prongs and 2 different color wires, I thought one wire would be power, maybe not a full 12 volts and the black wire ground would return the gauge with the resistance change. I could be wrong.