The Falcon died...

[swathdiver]

Can you tell me about it? I don't have any plans to tow with the Yukon since I already have a Sierra with the Duramax engine for towing. The Yukon has 220k miles, and I have no idea if the transmission has been worked on or replaced. I do know downshifting with T/H mode 3-2 hits pretty hard most of the time. With 40k miles on it since we bought it, the fluid is still red and smells like fairly fresh dexron. Is the torque converter something to do now, or would it be better to wait until I replace the trans? Thanks, swathdiver.

It's one of those things you "can" do since the motor is out. Torque converter failure is more common in the K2s than in our 900s but it does happen. At 40K the fluid is about due for replacement.

Some bedtime reading, don't forget the links at the bottom of the page too!

GM 6L80, 6L90 (265mm), Multi-Plate Performance Converter Torque Converter

Sonnax Torque Converter parts for GM 6L80, 6L90 (265mm), Multi-Plate Performance Converter applications

www.sonnax.com

 

[S33k3r]

I do not yet have direct experience with the fluid filled mounts. In fact, I accidentally conflated them with the hydraulic cab mounts for my Silverado. On my Silverado, it has the frame beaming issue, and one of the fixes -- short of boxing the frame -- is to install hydraulic cab mounts, only at the back of the cab. Sorry for my confusion.

The "Big 3" are wiring upgrades. These might help:

Big Three Replace Factory Grounds?
The "Big 3" Zero Gauge Wire Upgrade <-- I believe I forwarded to the spot where he starts the explanation, but it may be plus or minus a few seconds. Found this because of this response: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/big-3-help.110551/post-1324698
WHY YOU NEED TO DO A BIG 3 UPGRADE! WITH JOHNATHAN PRICE

 

[Doubeleive]

Can you tell me about it? I don't have any plans to tow with the Yukon since I already have a Sierra with the Duramax engine for towing. The Yukon has 220k miles, and I have no idea if the transmission has been worked on or replaced. I do know downshifting with T/H mode 3-2 hits pretty hard most of the time. With 40k miles on it since we bought it, the fluid is still red and smells like fairly fresh dexron. Is the torque converter something to do now, or would it be better to wait until I replace the trans? Thanks, swathdiver.


I was leaning to the H3 motor mount since I've read about a lot of failures of the hydraulic units. What's your experience been with the hydraulic mounts? What are the "Big 3"? Thanks for all the other suggestions; I'll be addressing those I haven't already done in the future as I want to focus on the engine and its peripheral parts right now. Thanks, S33k3r.


So it's just the driver's side mount that is being replaced with the H3 mount? I've wondered about the swap because I've read about increased engine vibration due to the solid rubber of the H3 mount. Is the increase in vibration significant? Thanks, Doubeleive.


Yes, 6L80. As I asked swathdiver above, is this something to do now, or should I wait until I replace the transmission? The transmission is a big question mark since I know nothing about it other than the T/H mode 3-2 downshift hits pretty hard most of the time, and the fluid looks pretty good with the 40k miles we've put on it. Thanks, donjetman.

depends on how sensitive your feelers are I can sense some slight vibration at idle sometimes but it sure firmed up the take off no more clunk big difference

 

[donjetman]

So it's just the driver's side mount that is being replaced with the H3 mount? I've wondered about the swap because I've read about increased engine vibration due to the solid rubber of the H3 mount. Is the increase in vibration significant?

I replaced both with the H3 units, trans mount, and both carrier mounts this yr. I don't notice any vibration.

If you have a trans shop rebuild your trans? they will require a TC change probably of their choosing.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

Can you tell me about it? I don't have any plans to tow with the Yukon since I already have a Sierra with the Duramax engine for towing. The Yukon has 220k miles, and I have no idea if the transmission has been worked on or replaced. I do know downshifting with T/H mode 3-2 hits pretty hard most of the time. With 40k miles on it since we bought it, the fluid is still red and smells like fairly fresh dexron. Is the torque converter something to do now, or would it be better to wait until I replace the trans? Thanks, swathdiver.


I was leaning to the H3 motor mount since I've read about a lot of failures of the hydraulic units. What's your experience been with the hydraulic mounts? What are the "Big 3"? Thanks for all the other suggestions; I'll be addressing those I haven't already done in the future as I want to focus on the engine and its peripheral parts right now. Thanks, S33k3r.


So it's just the driver's side mount that is being replaced with the H3 mount? I've wondered about the swap because I've read about increased engine vibration due to the solid rubber of the H3 mount. Is the increase in vibration significant? Thanks, Doubeleive.


Yes, 6L80. As I asked swathdiver above, is this something to do now, or should I wait until I replace the transmission? The transmission is a big question mark since I know nothing about it other than the T/H mode 3-2 downshift hits pretty hard most of the time, and the fluid looks pretty good with the 40k miles we've put on it. Thanks, donjetman.

@Millennium Falcon I would recommend replacing both motor mounts with the H3 mount. Once the driver side goes the passenger side starts to get pried on by the motor. The vibrations from the motor are more noticeable with the H3 mounts but these engine tend to run pretty smooth so there isn't a worry really. If your engine is running rough these H3 mounts will transfer that vibration to you.

 

[Millennium Falcon]

It's one of those things you "can" do since the motor is out. Torque converter failure is more common in the K2s than in our 900s but it does happen. At 40K the fluid is about due for replacement.

Some bedtime reading, don't forget the links at the bottom of the page too!

GM 6L80, 6L90 (265mm), Multi-Plate Performance Converter Torque Converter

Sonnax Torque Converter parts for GM 6L80, 6L90 (265mm), Multi-Plate Performance Converter applications

www.sonnax.com

Thanks for the links, swathdiver. I was planning on ordering a trans filter and pan gasket to do just that. I need to see what's in the bottom of the pan.

I do not yet have direct experience with the fluid filled mounts. In fact, I accidentally conflated them with the hydraulic cab mounts for my Silverado. On my Silverado, it has the frame beaming issue, and one of the fixes -- short of boxing the frame -- is to install hydraulic cab mounts, only at the back of the cab. Sorry for my confusion.

The "Big 3" are wiring upgrades. These might help:

Big Three Replace Factory Grounds?
The "Big 3" Zero Gauge Wire Upgrade <-- I believe I forwarded to the spot where he starts the explanation, but it may be plus or minus a few seconds. Found this because of this response: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/big-3-help.110551/post-1324698
WHY YOU NEED TO DO A BIG 3 UPGRADE! WITH JOHNATHAN PRICE

No problem. I need to replace the rear cab mounts on my Sierra, and I was thinking about using the hydraulic mounts to see if they would temper some of the freeway joints. And thanks for the links; you and swathdiver have given me some evening reading material.

Thanks to Doubeleive, donjetman, and Dustin Jackson for the feedback.

The engine is supposed to come in today or tomorrow. I'll take some pictures of how it's equipped if anyone is interested.

 

[Foggy]

As others have said, Do a new torque converter.. They are hard to find right now for
the 6L80E so start searching... You would be ok IF the only one you can find is a
totally stock one... They can usually last for 100K with no issues. And it sounds like
you have a bigger truck for your towing needs.
Obviously a "better upgraded" TC would be the best choice, but either way its very
good insurance on being stranded somewhere
Also, always replace the the O Ring Seal on the input shaft.. It's like $12 buck or something

 

[Millennium Falcon]

Thanks for the reply and tip, Foggy.