There are just some days I wish I didn't turn wrenches

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

OP
OP
OR VietVet

OR VietVet

Multnomah Falls
Supporting Member
Military
Joined
Oct 8, 2014
Posts
21,082
Reaction score
37,721
Location
Willamette Valley
I did make one decision, after going thru some of these posts. I refuse to go out and get a dwell meter. I remember the Snap On old red metal white meter face box with the bouncing needle and the special flexible allen tool for adjusting the points thru the hole on the GM distributor cap. The old one piece points and condenser kit for the GM's. I actually do have that adjusting tool and was also used for adjusting the air/fuel mixture needles on front of carbs. I have the long box and all the attachments.
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
OR VietVet

OR VietVet

Multnomah Falls
Supporting Member
Military
Joined
Oct 8, 2014
Posts
21,082
Reaction score
37,721
Location
Willamette Valley
Wish I had a mechanic as detail orientated near me.. Need some work done on all 3 cars of mine.
I learned a long time ago that "The devil is in the details". I ask questions because a lot of times the answer to those questions uncovers the source of the problems/devil. If you don't get details and just assume, then the problems can be overwhelming. I would rather open my mouth and ask questions in the beginning than open my mouth with excuses later.
 
OP
OP
OR VietVet

OR VietVet

Multnomah Falls
Supporting Member
Military
Joined
Oct 8, 2014
Posts
21,082
Reaction score
37,721
Location
Willamette Valley
Just had the next vehicle drop buy for a cursory inspection and a drop off of the vehicle history of maintenance and repairs. My next vehicle will be dropped off on 07/14 and will be the college daughter's 2007 Lexus RX350. Oil and filter change, air filter and throttle bore cleaning, top off coolant, clean battery cable ends-lots of corrosion that I pointed out to him and possibly the cabin air filter and whatever else I find during the work process.

Still have one of his other vehicles coming in. It is a 2013 Acura RDX. Seems to be needing an oil change and inspection and has a hard "jolt" feeling over bumps. Said that at last oil change they said they felt the jolt feeling over bumps and he had not been aware of that and after he took the vehicle he said he seems to have been feeling the jolt too. I think it is "suggestive selling" but I shall see.

I still have the 2018 Suburban rear liftgate struts to do either Thursday or Friday.
 
OP
OP
OR VietVet

OR VietVet

Multnomah Falls
Supporting Member
Military
Joined
Oct 8, 2014
Posts
21,082
Reaction score
37,721
Location
Willamette Valley

The 2018 Suburban liftgate struts showed up a day early. I saw they were coming so I propped the liftgate up and waited for the package. When package arrived it took about 20 minutes to remove old, install new and snake the left strut wiring connector into the top of liftgate and plug in. I did double check for power and ground before I removed old. He is leaving tomorrow for holiday weekend with his wife and was willing to wait till when he came back but the parts got here a day early via Fed Ex. As you can see by the video, it works great and he said is as quiet as when it was new. I guess he forgot to tell me it was getting noisier.

Diagnostics and labor put $1.50 in my pocket.

20230629_113257.jpg

This pic is on the old struts and the prop rod I used. I was ready when the parts showed up.
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
OR VietVet

OR VietVet

Multnomah Falls
Supporting Member
Military
Joined
Oct 8, 2014
Posts
21,082
Reaction score
37,721
Location
Willamette Valley
Next up is the 2007 Lexus RX350 for known work of: oil change with new drain plug gasket, air filter, cabin air filter, clean battery cable ends, clean throttle body, pressure test cooling system because it was slightly low and top off coolant. I looked thru his supplied paperwork and never saw spark plugs changed. The iridium plugs in it are supposed to be good for 10 years or 100k to 120k miles. It has just over 120k miles on it. The fuel filter is in the tank with the pump. The wiper cowling has to be completely removed to gain access to remove the upper plenum to get to rear spark plugs. I am going to remove an easy coil and plug to inspect and did find out that if the plugs are original, they will have a mark on the tip where the coil plugs on. The vehicle came from the dad's brother and then the college girl daughter has been the second owner. No where do I see plugs changed. It gonna likely need the plugs, coil boots and springs-two designs on those boots, tube seals, plenum seals and throttle body seal. I looked it all up and priced with my 10% military discount at AZ or with 5% discount at RA. Luckily the NGK and Fel-Pro parts I like are at both places. I will get the vehicle July 4th and at least pull the plug then to inspect. I already have all the known needs parts here. She is out of school so I can do the known stuff and then order in the other parts and do the other work later. The cowling removal does not look too bad. I am going to give him the option of doing the coils too, in case they go bad later and have to pull plenum again. I think it will be decided as to whether she is keeping the vehicle. An 07 with 120k miles is pretty low and is in great shape. My labor for that will likely be close to 3+ hours. I hope to shoot some pics of what I find. The battery cable end corrosion is pretty bad.
 

iamdub

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2016
Posts
20,821
Reaction score
44,955
Location
Li'l Weezyana

The 2018 Suburban liftgate struts showed up a day early. I saw they were coming so I propped the liftgate up and waited for the package. When package arrived it took about 20 minutes to remove old, install new and snake the left strut wiring connector into the top of liftgate and plug in. I did double check for power and ground before I removed old. He is leaving tomorrow for holiday weekend with his wife and was willing to wait till when he came back but the parts got here a day early via Fed Ex. As you can see by the video, it works great and he said is as quiet as when it was new. I guess he forgot to tell me it was getting noisier.

Diagnostics and labor put $1.50 in my pocket.

View attachment 402969

This pic is on the old struts and the prop rod I used. I was ready when the parts showed up.


$1.50? Diagnostics and labor done in just over a minute total? :D
 
OP
OP
OR VietVet

OR VietVet

Multnomah Falls
Supporting Member
Military
Joined
Oct 8, 2014
Posts
21,082
Reaction score
37,721
Location
Willamette Valley
Well, I just had a talk/text with the guy who owns the 97 GMC K1500 that I did the starter on and he is selling and he also owns the 85 F150 2wd that had the rust in the master cylinder and where the master cylinder bolts up to the booster. He is thinking about keeping the F150 for a beater truck. That truck is already there. Anyway, I let him know that the brake lines and brake hoses and wheel cylinders and calipers are gonna be full of the same rust as the master cylinder and if he is keeping, he needs to get real good insurance because he is gonna lose brakes sometime and hit something or someone. He said he will have me flush it. I told him that flushing it will not fix the rust. I explained the difference between maintenance and repairs. I also told him we need to check engine vacuum to make sure the engine provides enough vacuum for the booster. I told him to either try and sell it and do a full disclosure about the brakes or keep it and fix it to be safe. He says he wants to sell the GMC and keep the F150. I told him, it would be best for me to inspect front to back and give him a list with priorities. The key tumbler is hard to rotate and I feel the tumbler housing is gummed up and may loosen with some lube or the ignition switch is hard to slide. That was an obvious to me when here last. The body is straight with no rust. Don't really need 4wd around here. He is gonna get back to me. here is a couple pics of the crud in the m/cyl.

20230625_105545.jpg20230625_105552.jpg20230625_105558.jpg
 
Joined
Apr 11, 2018
Posts
7,124
Reaction score
14,365
Location
St. Louis
Well, I just had a talk/text with the guy who owns the 97 GMC K1500 that I did the starter on and he is selling and he also owns the 85 F150 2wd that had the rust in the master cylinder and where the master cylinder bolts up to the booster. He is thinking about keeping the F150 for a beater truck. That truck is already there. Anyway, I let him know that the brake lines and brake hoses and wheel cylinders and calipers are gonna be full of the same rust as the master cylinder and if he is keeping, he needs to get real good insurance because he is gonna lose brakes sometime and hit something or someone. He said he will have me flush it. I told him that flushing it will not fix the rust. I explained the difference between maintenance and repairs. I also told him we need to check engine vacuum to make sure the engine provides enough vacuum for the booster. I told him to either try and sell it and do a full disclosure about the brakes or keep it and fix it to be safe. He says he wants to sell the GMC and keep the F150. I told him, it would be best for me to inspect front to back and give him a list with priorities. The key tumbler is hard to rotate and I feel the tumbler housing is gummed up and may loosen with some lube or the ignition switch is hard to slide. That was an obvious to me when here last. The body is straight with no rust. Don't really need 4wd around here. He is gonna get back to me. here is a couple pics of the crud in the m/cyl.

View attachment 403025View attachment 403026View attachment 403027
Deja vu

:rofl:
 

Forum statistics

Threads
133,007
Posts
1,878,325
Members
97,948
Latest member
dylansmashed
Top