OP
OP
I always insist on replacing the knock sensors while I am in there. I have done 4 of these things so far. You can look back thru this thread and see some on the work. While I cringe about Dorman parts, I think the all metal Dorman replacement is a good choice. If you see anything else during disassembly, deal with it.
By the way, it is easy to see it when it starts to leak. 1. If you look straight down past where the filter housing is, with a flashlight, when it starts to leak, there will be an oil bath reflecting pool down there. If you see dry or just dirt/leaves, then it is not leaking. The cavity there is like a bathtub. 2. If the bath tub gets full enough, as you turn left and right, the high oil level will rock and splash out and drain down. I did one in a Jeep Wrangler and it was not a transverse engine and it would splash out when they accelerated or while braking.
I have got these down to a science now. Typical time for me is 1.5 to 2.0 total hours, start to finish.
By the way, it is easy to see it when it starts to leak. 1. If you look straight down past where the filter housing is, with a flashlight, when it starts to leak, there will be an oil bath reflecting pool down there. If you see dry or just dirt/leaves, then it is not leaking. The cavity there is like a bathtub. 2. If the bath tub gets full enough, as you turn left and right, the high oil level will rock and splash out and drain down. I did one in a Jeep Wrangler and it was not a transverse engine and it would splash out when they accelerated or while braking.
I have got these down to a science now. Typical time for me is 1.5 to 2.0 total hours, start to finish.
