There are just some days I wish I didn't turn wrenches

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It was supposed to rain, on and off today. It clouded up and she dropped at 11:30. I really thought it would be tomorrow before I started. Sun was out and 43 degrees. The work went smoothly and so did the test drive. Just waiting on the air resonator to get here Tuesday. She is leaving it here till then.
The bar manager where I get tacos on Tuesday and Thursday, recommended her to contact me and next thing I know, she and her friend are customers.
I am still looking for a shop I can live at too.
 
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The final special tool I need for the widow of an AL friend that passed, 2005 Tahoe driver's door hinge pins work, is here. Now I can pick a sunny day and schedule the work. Gonna be doing a door latch actuator on the same door and a new blower motor and resistor, as well. Gonna be a busy day, in my driveway, when I do that work. I always like to do the harder job first, so that will be the hinge pins. As before, pics and a write up to follow.

20250208_144855.jpg

20250208_144821.jpg
 

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Gonna be doing a door latch actuator on the same door and a new blower motor and resistor, as well.

Driver's door latch isn't a bad job. After doing mine I had some slack when pulling the outside handle, but fixed that by adjusting the linkage.

 
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Driver's door latch isn't a bad job. After doing mine I had some slack when pulling the outside handle, but fixed that by adjusting the linkage.

Yea, I been in the GMT800 doors a few times with no problems. Hers is just banged up from the hinge pins sag. First the pins, then the door latch, then the blower and then the resistor and then make sure the 40 amp fuse is good.

I seem to remember the linkage rods for the latch are a PITA, but doable with patience and memory.
 

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The final special tool I need for the widow of an AL friend that passed, 2005 Tahoe driver's door hinge pins work, is here. Now I can pick a sunny day and schedule the work. Gonna be doing a door latch actuator on the same door and a new blower motor and resistor, as well. Gonna be a busy day, in my driveway, when I do that work. I always like to do the harder job first, so that will be the hinge pins. As before, pics and a write up to follow.

View attachment 449793

View attachment 449794

I agree. "Do the hard part first" is a basic wisdom.

joe
 

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Yea, I been in the GMT800 doors a few times with no problems. Hers is just banged up from the hinge pins sag. First the pins, then the door latch, then the blower and then the resistor and then make sure the 40 amp fuse is good.

I seem to remember the linkage rods for the latch are a PITA, but doable with patience and memory.

The rods aren't all that difficult -- except for getting that yellow hinged one to "open" to release the outside door pull linkage. IIRC the others have access holes or come out after removing the actual latch from the mounting holes and working it out into the open a bit.

Here's what mine looked like when I pulled it out, ready to swap the linkage rods over to the new latch:

2021-01-03 Old Door Latch_replaced.jpg
 
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The rods aren't all that difficult -- except for getting that yellow hinged one to "open" to release the outside door pull linkage. IIRC the others have access holes or come out after removing the actual latch from the mounting holes and working it out into the open a bit.

Here's what mine looked like when I pulled it out, ready to swap the linkage rods over to the new latch:

View attachment 449798
Yea, that yellow one is the "adjustment one". The top/cover flips up and the rod is serrated or threaded and can be moved to tighten or loosen and just snap the top/cover closed and it stays there. Gotta pay attention to where that is at when I swap the rod over to the new one. I promise to take as many pics as possible.

Sometimes, I want to take pics on something I am working on, and I get on a roll and don't want to stop to take a pic.
 

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Yea, that yellow one is the "adjustment one". The top/cover flips up and the rod is serrated or threaded and can be moved to tighten or loosen and just snap the top/cover closed and it stays there. Gotta pay attention to where that is at when I swap the rod over to the new one. I promise to take as many pics as possible.

Sometimes, I want to take pics on something I am working on, and I get on a roll and don't want to stop to take a pic.

No need to pay much attention to where it is when you remove it. When you're ready to close the hinge, pull down on the rod to take the slack out of it and snap the hinge closed.
 

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