I have gotten this message a few times lately. I purchased a new cap today in hopes it was only that. With that being said, how often is it that only the cap is causing the issue and not the solenoid itself? I know they are prone to failure. I figure Ill get ahead of it if it really is never just the cap and replace that too. Opinions?
Tighten Gas Cap
- Thread starter byrds6
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CrashTestDummy
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Given that yours is a '07, it probably can't hurt to try, especially since it's the easy thing to do. But I suspect you'll be under the truck soon replacing parts.
We went this route, too, but it was a purge valve and canister assembly that eventually kept the CEL off. I'll note here, too, that with all the cars we've had and have that get the gas cap checked for emission inspections, I have yet to have to replace one.
We went this route, too, but it was a purge valve and canister assembly that eventually kept the CEL off. I'll note here, too, that with all the cars we've had and have that get the gas cap checked for emission inspections, I have yet to have to replace one.
jetmech
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I like to put some heavy grease on the cap o-ring. It helps get it a little tighter before the limiter kicks in
02Burgundybeast
Full Access Member
PO449 code will probably follow. That's is the Evap canister code.
CrashTestDummy
Full Access Member
Neither the canister nor the purge valve are difficult to replace, but the evap canister assembly is a real PITA to get to. You have to drop the spare to get to it. I'm convinced that if I ever have a flat in that truck, I'm freaking calling a flatbed, as I'm NOT messing with dragging that stupid spare out from under the truck!
If the canister assembly has never been replaced, the breather hose is push-pinned to the gas filler tube flange (up by the gas cap), so you may need to reach up between the inner and outer body panels to get to it. IIRC, the one on our truck was pinned and zip-tied. The pin I could push out with a screw driver by opening the fuel door and pushing the pin out there (it's the little black plastic stud that's just above and forward of the fuel cap, IIRC. The zip tie is what I had to reach up to get to with some wire cutters.
If you get the canister, don't forget to get the harness extension. They changed the plug on the canister solenoid so that the connectors are no longer centered in the plug on the solenoid. The harness extension connects between your factory harness and the evap canister.
I simply routed the breather hose behind a frame rail above the spare. I figure it's going to be as dry there as anywhere. A couple of extra zip ties came in handy here.
For the evap purge valve, its pretty much plug and play. Like the canister assembly, getting to the thing is the biggest deal. Locate it, pull the vacuum tubing off of both ends, pull the electrical connector, and unclip it from the mounting bracket, and reverse the process for the new one.
Thanks CTD. Ill probably be trying to put this in sometime this week when its not raining. Its been pouring off and on here every day lately. I believe the one I purchased came with the extender. It was CP606 from O'riley's. Is it good to change out the canister too or do I only need to change out the solenoid? I guess even if I have it all but only need the one thing why do it all right now lol.
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