Tonyrodz's Tahoe Build Thread

[Scottydoggs]

https://www.lkqonline.com/2005-Chev...Engine-Assembly/-hSnKKOncnnPcnnP/-i~233631349

this is the cheapest one i see at lkq 160k on it out of a 03 2500hp, with a 6.0 1000 bucks, its in mass. lower the miles the more they cost, up to 1500 or so. like they be gold plated or some crap. crazy. i figured id see one for less then a grand.

 

[Scottydoggs]

https://www.lkqonline.com/2005-Chev...Engine-Assembly/-hSnKKOncnnPcnnP/-i~233631349

this is the cheapest one i see at lkq 160k on it out of a 03 2500hp, with a 6.0 1000 bucks, its in mass. lower the miles the more they cost, up to 1500 or so. like they be gold plated or some crap. crazy. i figured id see one for less then a grand.

they suck links dont work right. enter a 05 chevy truck 2500 hd then the subs, engine bay then engine assembly. top one is the cheapest one.

 

[89Suburban]

Sorry Tony. I got a junkyard here that installs used motors. (Rossi Auto) That's my backup plan. I am sure I have "crank walk" on mine. If I park down hill it idles rough, if I park up hill it's smooth. I'm just keeping the oil topped off and running it.

 

[Tonyrodz]

https://www.lkqonline.com/2005-Chev...Engine-Assembly/-hSnKKOncnnPcnnP/-i~233631349

this is the cheapest one i see at lkq 160k on it out of a 03 2500hp, with a 6.0 1000 bucks, its in mass. lower the miles the more they cost, up to 1500 or so. like they be gold plated or some crap. crazy. i figured id see one for less then a grand.

U pull it in Bayville sells them for $500. He has no clue on condition or mileage either--you have to yank it too.

 

[Rocket Man]

By crank walk, does he mean crank end play? If so, ask him for the spec he measured. When my trans went last time, Performabuilt tried to say my crank end play was way out of spec, causing the crank to push the converter against the input shaft. It wasn’t, I bought a dial indicator and measured it. I’m not saying your buddy doesn’t know what he’s talking about, but he might be in over his head regardless. I had looked into replacing the main bearings with the crank in the engine and it’s possible to “roll” them in but I couldn’t find out if it was possible to do that specifically to the center main bearing, which is the one responsible for end play. Anyway, what Im trying to say is to get more information from him before deciding what to do. I wish I was close to you, I would love to diagnose that engine. Good luck buddy.

 

[Sam Harris]

Damn Tony. That sucks. I hope you can get a good used motor, and keep your baby rolling.

 

[Rocket Man]

So after reading some on crank walk, I’m starting to doubt that’s what’s going on. Yes it is what happens when your thrust bearing is toast, but you should have got a crank position sensor code. Plus I don’t think it would be the cause of knocking. You should ask him what he measured the crank end play and what the spec is. Was there metal in the oil? The crank balance lobes would have to be hitting the walls of your engine to cause that knocking, but your TB would have to be toast. There would be a lot of aluminum in the oil. Crank thrust should be between .003-.004”. If your torque converter didn’t have 1/8” clearance to the flex plate before bolting it up, it could cause the thrust bearing to go out fast from it hitting against the crank.
Read this on LS1tech

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/627424-crank-walking.html

 

[Tonyrodz]

So after reading some on crank walk, I’m starting to doubt that’s what’s going on. Yes it is what happens when your thrust bearing is toast, but you should have got a crank position sensor code. Plus I don’t think it would be the cause of knocking. You should ask him what he measured the crank end play and what the spec is. Was there metal in the oil? The crank balance lobes would have to be hitting the walls of your engine to cause that knocking, but your TB would have to be toast. There would be a lot of aluminum in the oil. Crank thrust should be between .003-.004”. If your torque converter didn’t have 1/8” clearance to the flex plate before bolting it up, it could cause the thrust bearing to go out fast from it hitting against the crank.
Read this on LS1tech

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/627424-crank-walking.html

I'm gonna get someone else to look at it. Get a 2nd opinion.

 

[HiHoeSilver]

I'm gonna get someone else to look at it. Get a 2nd opinion.

Best next move.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Damn Tony. That sucks. I hope you can get a good used motor, and keep your baby rolling.

Hopefully mine isn't messed up and he's wrong.