SnowDrifter
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Catch can puts oil that would normally enter your intake through the PCV system, into a container that you can then drain and discard separately.
There are catch can systems that drain back into the crank case - basically instead of a drain port, it's a hose that returns to your sump. Based on the moisture I get from mine, I'd be weary of that. But that's personal suspicion, not based in any data. I've not looked into it.
Regarding high mileage... Depends on why you're burning oil. Some have seal swellers in there that can help if you're leaking from valve stem seals or something. But the caveat to that, is you basically need to stick with said oil. Changing off to something else would be apt to cause the seals to return to their original state. And I have a personal bet that it would put more wear and tear on intact seals.
If it's worn rings, nothing will help ya there. Thicker oil might slow it, but you'd have to weigh the risks of using a thicker oil here and risking lower flow / longer circulation time with how cold it gets where you are.
My two cents on the subject, which I practice on my own vehicle: It never sees high mileage / seal conditioners / any other nonsense. If a seal is leaking, the seal is worn and should be replaced. It's akin to getting a deep cut on your finger, and proceeding to cover it up with makeup instead of getting stitches.
I change my oil on the frequent side of things. 158k on the clock right now, using a catch can, no observable oil burning or leaks. No blue smoke. No wet spots under the car. No change on the dipstick that I can't attribute to parking at a slightly different angle
There are catch can systems that drain back into the crank case - basically instead of a drain port, it's a hose that returns to your sump. Based on the moisture I get from mine, I'd be weary of that. But that's personal suspicion, not based in any data. I've not looked into it.
Regarding high mileage... Depends on why you're burning oil. Some have seal swellers in there that can help if you're leaking from valve stem seals or something. But the caveat to that, is you basically need to stick with said oil. Changing off to something else would be apt to cause the seals to return to their original state. And I have a personal bet that it would put more wear and tear on intact seals.
If it's worn rings, nothing will help ya there. Thicker oil might slow it, but you'd have to weigh the risks of using a thicker oil here and risking lower flow / longer circulation time with how cold it gets where you are.
My two cents on the subject, which I practice on my own vehicle: It never sees high mileage / seal conditioners / any other nonsense. If a seal is leaking, the seal is worn and should be replaced. It's akin to getting a deep cut on your finger, and proceeding to cover it up with makeup instead of getting stitches.
I change my oil on the frequent side of things. 158k on the clock right now, using a catch can, no observable oil burning or leaks. No blue smoke. No wet spots under the car. No change on the dipstick that I can't attribute to parking at a slightly different angle