Torque Converter Shudder...Best Course of Action?

[gpracer1]

While it is doing the shudder, lightly apply the brake pedal to get the brake lights to come on , this should kick you out of lockup.

 

[BG1988]

I've checked the motor mounts, they are good. I actually replaced the driver's side one last year with the Hummer model. The transmission mount looked good from the outside, but I didn't try jacking up the transmission to test it.

I tried to pay attention on the way home today. It seemed to do it most noticeably when in 3-6 gear, cruising anywhere between 25 and 60mph at 1100-1500 rpm and then rolling on the throttle a bit (but not enough to cause a downshift). Worse when going up hill. Worse once the transmission was up to temp.

Regarding the fine print on the warranty--are you aware of any specific "gotchas" with the Jasper, or was that a general statement?

Considering the mileage and R&R cost, I'm inclined to bite to bullet and do the whole transmission now and be done with it. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something.

why not put the transmission in 'TEST" mode this will apply 3rd gear.. in drive do be careful as the engine will have very little power when you start moving in 3rd gear



It's fuse 19 (under the hood) OR Trans ignition fuse (check your local listing on the fuse box to confirm ) remember to disconnect the battery before pulling fuses to computer

it's artificial limp mode..


while in "test mode" the CEL may appear with a p0700


this will test weather or not it's an electrical issue or transmission control module or mechanical issue....

if everything works fine then it's the electrical side of things such as loose pins on the transmission cable, damaged wires near the ebrake

 

[Juservic]

¿Por qué no poner la transmisión en modo "TEST"? Esto aplicará la 3ª marcha .. en la conducción tenga cuidado, ya que el motor tendrá muy poca potencia cuando empiece a moverse en 3ª marcha.



Es el fusible 19 (debajo del capó) O fusible de encendido de transición (verifique su lista local en la caja de fusibles para confirmar) recuerde desconectar la batería antes de tirar los fusibles a la computadora

es el modo flácido artificial ...


mientras está en "modo de prueba", el CEL puede aparecer con un p0700


esto probará el clima o no, es un problema eléctrico o un módulo de control de la transmisión o un problema mecánico ...

[MEDIA = youtube] kQ7BuYKVknE: 876 [/ MEDIA]


si todo funciona bien, entonces es el lado eléctrico de cosas como clavijas sueltas en el cable de transmisión, cables dañados cerca del freno de mano

Pues ... No se sabe nada mas? Cual es el desenlace? Me interesa, SI No es molestia.
Y SI le interesa porque no ha solucionado el problema, me gustaría aportar una idea.
Saludos desde España

 

[Juservic]

Pues ... No se sabe nada mas? Cual es el desenlace? Me interesa, SI No es molestia.
Y SI le interesa porque no ha solucionado el problema, me gustaría aportar una idea.
Saludos desde España

Ya que tiene un tech 2 podría hacer una pequeña comprobación

 

[Fjs0001]

When my torque convertor was going bad, it felt like I was driving on the rumble strips on the side of the road. If I let off the gas it would stop. I poured Lube Guard Instant Shudder fix into my trans and it solved the issue.

 

[WQFTruckster]

Figured I'd follow up on this. I found a local mom and pop transmission shop that had great reviews. They checked it out, confirmed what I was feeling was torque converter lockup clutch slip. I went ahead and had them rebuild it. Once they pulled it apart he said the 3rd gear clutch was pretty worn and on its way out also. They did a few updates while they were in there, replaced the TCM, and I paid a little extra to have a billet torque converter put in. Supposedly has a beefier multi clutch system. New rear main seal also. They got the work done in 3 days. Just over $4k total out the door. Drives like new. Shifts better then ever. I'm happy. Hopefully this will cover me for the next few years. Also he mentioned they used "10 speed transmission fluid" as that is apparently now what GM is recommending for the 6 speeds also? I'm not super knowledgeable on this stuff, but I know it's a low viscosity fluid. Transtar M465MVLV is what they put in it. Said I shouldn't have to change this fluid for 100k miles, but I'm not sure I want to push it that far.

 

[Geotrash]

Figured I'd follow up on this. I found a local mom and pop transmission shop that had great reviews. They checked it out, confirmed what I was feeling was torque converter lockup clutch slip. I went ahead and had them rebuild it. Once they pulled it apart he said the 3rd gear clutch was pretty worn and on its way out also. They did a few updates while they were in there, replaced the TCM, and I paid a little extra to have a billet torque converter put in. Supposedly has a beefier multi clutch system. New rear main seal also. They got the work done in 3 days. Just over $4k total out the door. Drives like new. Shifts better then ever. I'm happy. Hopefully this will cover me for the next few years. Also he mentioned they used "10 speed transmission fluid" as that is apparently now what GM is recommending for the 6 speeds also? I'm not super knowledgeable on this stuff, but I know it's a low viscosity fluid. Transtar M465MVLV is what they put in it. Said I shouldn't have to change this fluid for 100k miles, but I'm not sure I want to push it that far.

Glad you got it done! Sounds like they did a great job for you. And I agree with your concerns about fluid change interval. I run my transmission fluid for no more than 30K.

 

[WQFTruckster]

Glad you got it done! Sounds like they did a great job for you. And I agree with your concerns about fluid change interval. I run my transmission fluid for no more than 30K.

He said something about regular fluid being more prone to absorb moisture which is why you should really change it at ~40k or so. But this stuff is supposedly less prone to that? Not sure. He had done a lot of the GM 6 speeds and seemed to know what he was talking about, but who knows. I'm leaning towards changing it at 50-60k. We'll see how it goes.

 

[Foggy]

I'd still drop the pan and replace the filter in about 10K miles.. You'll get alot of
break in clutch material wear in the first few thousand miles...
Then, after that you could go for 30K between services

 

[olliec420]

When my torque convertor was going bad, it felt like I was driving on the rumble strips on the side of the road. If I let off the gas it would stop. I poured Lube Guard Instant Shudder fix into my trans and it solved the issue.

So in my 09 Yukon 2wd, for a while now I have been noticing a little jerk when slowing down for red lights and was thinking that something might be going in the engine/trans mating department. It shift great as far as I can tell. I towed a super light trailer the other day. 5x10 angled iron trailer with my riding lawn mower on it, not heavy. I was leaving my friends house and I got the rumble strip effect. Got home took the trailer off and it drives fine. I had a 16 Sierra that had the torque converter changed out under warranty for the rumble strip effect so as soon as it happened I immediately thought torque converter. I have a friend who has a shop (not trans shop) who will do a torque converter for me and while he's in there, rear main and oil pan gasket and flush and filter the trans for a good price. Im thinking of having him do that and then if that fixes it great, if it doesn't then to the trans shop it goes I guess. Any one have any luck in changing just the torque converter? The fluid is nice and red changed every 30k, doesnt smell burnt or anything. If the torque converter is failing I'd like to get it before it takes everything else out. Any flaws in this logic?