Torque Setting on Rear caliper bolts 2004 z71

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SnowDrifter

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I don't know what you want me to tell you man.

You ask whether to use loctite, but reject the answers given. Shoot... If you want locking bolts without loctite, lightly crimp the threads in a vice for an interference fit.
You ask about torque specs, don't accept the 'tight' answer and disregard the specs whether provided by chevy or by by a hardware manufacturer.

I'm not sure how to help you right now.
 
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Red Rider

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You are absolutely right. I will stick with the threadlock. I was just trying to understand why GM requires it, while other manufacturers do not... something different with GM design???

But the 'tight' answer to me is crazy. I have been wrenching for over 20 years and don't do it everyday. But even for a mechanic to tighten to your 'tight' spec is completely negligent. It is even more reckless to post it on a forum like this, where you have complete novices that could read it, and cause some serious damage.

As far as not being able to over tighten/damage a bolt, the rated torque setting for a fastener is 2/3 the point at which a bolt begins to fail. That is not a whole lot of additional force. The 16000 you reference is the clamping force on the bracket, tensile spring force of the bolt. Probably less of an issue on such a big bolt, but on smaller ones, it would be easy to damage the bolt.
 
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Red Rider

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Been meaning to post this... Here is spec from the manual i picked up. WAY better that FSM as it clearly indicates torque for each caliper. So 148 foot pounds it is.

As far as loctite, Spoke to mechanic who recommended staying away from the yellow and red (requires torch/heat to get off) loctite. He said Red was a nightmare and really not use that one.

Use the blue loctite instead. He recommended cleaning bolt with brake cleaner or similar, and putting one line perpendicular to threads down entire bolt, about the thickness of a pencil lead. I am sure many already know this, but i have not worked much with loctite type products.

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