Transmission upgrade?

[Denalibro76]

Afternoon all. I have an 03’ Yukon Denali (AWD) and has the 4L65e. It needs a rebuild, but my question is there any other transmissions that will work with minimal to no modifications? Would like to get a better converter as well.

 

[D -money]

simple answer is no you almost always have to spend more dollars if you don't go with the same transmission/converter the truck came with.. do a professional rebuild with the updates and don't tow anything and you should be fine for another hundred thousand..

 

[89Suburban]

@NickTransmissions

 

[Denalibro76]

simple answer is no you almost always have to spend more dollars if you don't go with the same transmission/converter the truck came with.. do a professional rebuild with the updates and don't tow anything and you should be fine for another hundred thousand..

Yeah. I don’t have any problems rebuilding the one I have. Just wondering if there was something better to use. I just want mild performance and i never tow anything anyhow. Will definitely put all the “must haves” in when I do it!

 

[strutaeng]

4L80e!

Not a direct swap for sure, but it can be done. I did it on my 99 Silverado 2wd and love it.

Transfer case/front driveshaft adds further complications.

 

[NickTransmissions]

Afternoon all. I have an 03’ Yukon Denali (AWD) and has the 4L65e. It needs a rebuild, but my question is there any other transmissions that will work with minimal to no modifications? Would like to get a better converter as well.

An '80E will swap in but you don't need it unless you're doing some really wild and crazy shiit....Build up your 4L65E...it already has the following from the factory:

- 5 pinion front and rear planetary carriers (4L60Es have four pinions)
- Heat treated stator splines (pump) - not found on the 4L60E
- Induction hardened input shaft - not found on the 4L60E
- 7 clutch 3/4 pack (4L60Es have 6 frictions, 5 steels)
- Larger Torrington bearing for the front planet
- More 'aerodynamically' shaped rear ring gear to reduce parasitic spin losses due to fluid-driven drag

Augment the above with the following basic upgrades:
- Sonnax boost valve kit, smart shell and pin less accumulator pistons
- Corvette Servo (093 series servo) for 2nd gear
- Transgo unbreakable pump ring kit for the pump body
- Alto wide band for the reverse drum (have the drum turned or purchase a new one as the surface must be perfectly flat and most used ones are warped to some degree)
- Transgo high rate return spring kit for forward drum return spring assemblies (you don't have to install the transgo bleeder orifice capsule that comes w/it unless you will regularly do 5000+ rpms in 1st and 2nd gear)

Do the following procedures:
- Drill the 1-2 feed in the spacer plate .086, 2-3 feed, 3-4 feed and 3-2 exhaust to .100 (low reverse to .086 if you do a lot of manual shifting)
- Block off the 3-2 downshift valve then take the spring that is in that 3-2 downshift valve bore and insert it inside the AFL main spring for more AFL pressure to the solenoids
- Significantly restrict the 3-4 accumulator with either the Sonnax pinless kit, double stacking two factory 3-4 acc pistons in the bore, legs facing each other and meshed (put a new o-ring on the piston on the top) or block it off all together at the feed port in the bottom of the bore with a plug if going w/ a converter stall of 2800 or higher and leave the bore empty)
- Set 3-4 clearance to .030-.040 and delete the load release springs (keep them in if RPMs will exceed 6k and engine power exceeds 550 HP or so...)

A few high performance torque converter builders that my customers have used in the past: Circle D, Yank, Revmax, Suncoast, Tick and more...

 

[Denalibro76]

An '80E will swap in but you don't need it unless you're doing some really wild and crazy shiit....Build up your 4L65E...it already has the following from the factory:

- 5 pinion front and rear planetary carriers (4L60Es have four pinions)
- Heat treated stator splines (pump) - not found on the 4L60E
- Induction hardened input shaft - not found on the 4L60E
- 7 clutch 3/4 pack (4L60Es have 6 frictions, 5 steels)
- Larger Torrington bearing for the front planet
- More 'aerodynamically' shaped rear ring gear to reduce parasitic spin losses due to fluid-driven drag

Augment the above with the following basic upgrades:
- Sonnax boost valve kit, smart shell and pin less accumulator pistons
- Corvette Servo (093 series servo) for 2nd gear
- Transgo unbreakable pump ring kit for the pump body
- Alto wide band for the reverse drum (have the drum turned or purchase a new one as the surface must be perfectly flat and most used ones are warped to some degree)
- Transgo high rate return spring kit for forward drum return spring assemblies (you don't have to install the transgo bleeder orifice capsule that comes w/it unless you will regularly do 5000+ rpms in 1st and 2nd gear)

Do the following procedures:
- Drill the 1-2 feed in the spacer plate .086, 2-3 feed, 3-4 feed and 3-2 exhaust to .100 (low reverse to .086 if you do a lot of manual shifting)
- Block off the 3-2 downshift valve then take the spring that is in that 3-2 downshift valve bore and insert it inside the AFL main spring for more AFL pressure to the solenoids
- Significantly restrict the 3-4 accumulator with either the Sonnax pinless kit, double stacking two factory 3-4 acc pistons in the bore, legs facing each other and meshed (put a new o-ring on the piston on the top) or block it off all together at the feed port in the bottom of the bore with a plug if going w/ a converter stall of 2800 or higher and leave the bore empty)
- Set 3-4 clearance to .030-.040 and delete the load release springs (keep them in if RPMs will exceed 6k and engine power exceeds 550 HP or so...)

A few high performance torque converter builders that my customers have used in the past: Circle D, Yank, Revmax, Suncoast, Tick and more...

Wow this is great info! Thanks so much!

 

[rockola1971]

Yes. The 4L65E is the heavier duty version of 4L60E. And its nonsense that you cant tow with it. I tow all the time with my 03 Tahoe LT and my 05 Yukon Denali. I tow a 5400lb 32ft camper or a 7x12 tandem axle enclosed trailer loaded up. My vehicles are approaching 300k on the odometers too. Get your tranny rebuilt and standard upgrades done and it will take some abuse and last a long time. Add a tranny cooler if you dont have one and it will extend your tranny life. A 4L80E will install fairly easy but you will have to get different length driveshafts and reprogram PCM for it too. Its a common mod and theres tons of youtube info on it out there. But since you arent even towing I would put the money into the 4L65E build and run from any builder that doesnt mention most of the upgrades that nick listed above.

 

[Bill Barnes]

An '80E will swap in but you don't need it unless you're doing some really wild and crazy shiit....Build up your 4L65E...it already has the following from the factory:

- 5 pinion front and rear planetary carriers (4L60Es have four pinions)
- Heat treated stator splines (pump) - not found on the 4L60E
- Induction hardened input shaft - not found on the 4L60E
- 7 clutch 3/4 pack (4L60Es have 6 frictions, 5 steels)
- Larger Torrington bearing for the front planet
- More 'aerodynamically' shaped rear ring gear to reduce parasitic spin losses due to fluid-driven drag

Augment the above with the following basic upgrades:
- Sonnax boost valve kit, smart shell and pin less accumulator pistons
- Corvette Servo (093 series servo) for 2nd gear
- Transgo unbreakable pump ring kit for the pump body
- Alto wide band for the reverse drum (have the drum turned or purchase a new one as the surface must be perfectly flat and most used ones are warped to some degree)
- Transgo high rate return spring kit for forward drum return spring assemblies (you don't have to install the transgo bleeder orifice capsule that comes w/it unless you will regularly do 5000+ rpms in 1st and 2nd gear)

Do the following procedures:
- Drill the 1-2 feed in the spacer plate .086, 2-3 feed, 3-4 feed and 3-2 exhaust to .100 (low reverse to .086 if you do a lot of manual shifting)
- Block off the 3-2 downshift valve then take the spring that is in that 3-2 downshift valve bore and insert it inside the AFL main spring for more AFL pressure to the solenoids
- Significantly restrict the 3-4 accumulator with either the Sonnax pinless kit, double stacking two factory 3-4 acc pistons in the bore, legs facing each other and meshed (put a new o-ring on the piston on the top) or block it off all together at the feed port in the bottom of the bore with a plug if going w/ a converter stall of 2800 or higher and leave the bore empty)
- Set 3-4 clearance to .030-.040 and delete the load release springs (keep them in if RPMs will exceed 6k and engine power exceeds 550 HP or so...)

A few high performance torque converter builders that my customers have used in the past: Circle D, Yank, Revmax, Suncoast, Tick and more...

Nick Transmissions, do you know of any companies in the MD/VA who have a transmission or build like you've described available? I have a 2005 Yukon XL SLT w/5.3 Z code and 4L60E, and 242K. The transmission is getting a little tired, and I am planning for a little more power, so I don't want to get left on the side of the road while we're traveling. We are both 71, and I can't do the work myself anymore.
Thanks!

 

[NickTransmissions]

Nick Transmissions, do you know of any companies in the MD/VA who have a transmission or build like you've described available? I have a 2005 Yukon XL SLT w/5.3 Z code and 4L60E, and 242K. The transmission is getting a little tired, and I am planning for a little more power, so I don't want to get left on the side of the road while we're traveling. We are both 71, and I can't do the work myself anymore.
Thanks!

Hi Bill, unfortunately, I don't know of anyone or shop in particular in the the MD/NOVA/DC area but any competent, knowledgable shop would be able to take on the work and build you a reliable trans with the requisite upgrades based on what you're planning for the engine, etc...