TYF Ate my Thread (Cheapest DOD/AFM delete option is...?)

[the 18th letter]

'Delete' refers to permanently removing all V4 mode hardware.
It's the only way to be absolutely sure the V4 mode lifters can never fail you; by getting rid of them.
'Disable' prevents using V4 mode. Plug-ins disable V4 mode, but only while plugged in.
Tunes permanently disable V4 mode - if that's what you ask for.

It should be obvious that when you unplug the plug-in, V4 mode re-enables itself.
If you ever need to unplug it, shift manually and avoid top gear, this also avoids V4 mode.

The better value will always be a proper tune - you really don't know what you're missing ...

Anyway, be sure to change your oil and filter more often than the Oil Life Monitor suggests.

All of this is correct however, I was providing requested information on a product.

 

[Marky Dissod]

Indeed.
I was adding more info to the info you provided.

 

[LurkingLuke]

It's embarrassing to be resurrecting this tired old subject, but I've been on such a steep Yukon Denali learning curve lately that I still need my "training wheels" to avoid falling right off my bike.

Next I'll have to look closer at my fusebox (remove something?) and my DIC (change a programmable setting?). I guess "they" were right when it comes to Learning to Code.

 

[the 18th letter]

Indeed.
I was adding more info to the info you provided.

I prefer a tune for more than the AFM delete myself, but in the meantime I’m running the Range. Should be done this spring.

 

[Trey Hardy]

Thank you 18th, Marky, Trey. I have the info I need , now it's time I slept on it. I've wanted a pro tune for a long time, just trying to do it in a manner that doesn't put my wife in a mood for weeks on end.

That’s why you justify doing it by saying you “need it” or “got to have it” wife’s don’t like that “want” word we like to bring up but if it’s “essential” she’ll sign right off and say GET IT!
I’d spend the money on a good custom tune over a range device anyday and if they know what they are doing then the drivability should improve greatly. I think my favorite part of my tune was the difference in the transmission shift points you can really dial it in to your driving style and took my sluggish hard shifting high milage 4l60 and made it drive like I just got a new one put in her.
I got my first tune at around 257,000 when I first got it as anytime it would drop down she sounded like she was about to send a rod through the hood of her.
Once it was tuned off I diddnt have a problem till way down the road a year or two later when a couple lifters collapsed that’s when the Italian tune up did me well thank god but it was a 50/50 chance it was gunna “free up or blow up”

 

[Marky Dissod]

... guess "they" were right when it comes to Learning to Code.

My experiences modding many different GM V8 vehicles has shown that the best bang for the buck performance mods are:

more assertive axle gearing - GM is notorious for undergearing V8 vehicles, the difference between 3.73 and 4.10 is noticeable even with very small throttle adjustments
ecm / tcm reprogramming (re-coding) - no matter how much more power the intake and exhaust could ever possibly release, if you still have GM OE programming, your transmission is still being shifted by a schmuck whose goal is to eke out the last possible MpG instead of responding to your foot's demands QUICKLY.

 

[LurkingLuke]

Every time I've had an auto trans with Sport and Regular drive modes, I stick it in sport, as regular won't go down a gear unless I press the gas so much it then roars into high-RPM neck-jerking acceleration. Sport allows me to nudge the pedal and go down a gear, not like I'm trying to start a hill-climb race but like I just want to sit gently in the power band.

Point is, I suspect shorter gearing achieves about the same effect. The ol' "You'll be cruising at normal highway speeds at 4000 RPM" argument doesn't really work today with our 6-speed (or more speeds) trannies.

 

[j91z28d1]

price always depends on if you're doing any of this work yourself?

either way, go with the black bear cal. once and be done with it, even later if it does eat a lifter and you gotta have hard parts replaced the tune is already done.

if you're really budget and the truck can be down a while, you can mail the ecm off to a shop that will turn off afm but nothing else and mail it back. last I saw it was $50? don't know the details since I already had hp tuners laying around from other projects.

 

[Marky Dissod]

Every time I've had an auto trans with Sport and Regular drive modes, I stick it in sport, as regular won't go down a gear unless I press the gas so much it then roars into high-RpM neck-jerking acceleration.
Sport allows me to nudge the pedal and go down a gear, not like I'm trying to start a hill-climb race but like I just want to sit gently in the power band.

Point is, I suspect shorter gearing achieves about the same effect.
The ol' "You'll be cruising at normal highway speeds at 4000 RPM" argument doesn't really work today with our 6-speed (or more speeds) trannies.

Not exactly ...
Used to have a Caprice wagon with 2.56 axle.
I'll never fully express my ire after HOPELESSLY losing several races to what I THOUGHT was an essentially identical 2.93 wagon.
When he showed me the metal mech fan underhood, I actually exclaimed
"How the frak does that big @$$ metal fan make your fake@$$ woodpanel wagon quicker than mine?!?!" (Mine lacked fake wood paneling.)

No shift program in the world could ever possibly make a 2.56 wagon quicker than a 2.93 wagon (both 4L60Es).
Although I'm grateful to my wagon for goading me to learn LT1 pcm tuning (which protected the 4L60E far better than GM ever intended!),
3.42 was hands down THE best bang-for-the-buck POWER mod.
Going from 2.56 to 3.42 was far better than tuning, without question.
My 3.42 wagon left his 2.93 wagon in the dust like he'd done to my 2.56 wagon.
It was GLORIOUS - and I did not lose even 1MpG!

With 2.56, my wagon topped out at 131MpH (AFTER I lifted GM's 108MpH speed limiter).
It's actually more accurate to say I ran out of patience and began to fear for my engine.
The amount of time it took to go from 130MpH to 131MpH was roughly a long cigarette drag.

With 3.42, my wagon topped out at 141MpH, and took 3.42 far less time to get to 140MpH than it took 2.56 to get to 130MpH.
Better said, I ran out of bawlz, and don't care to personally find out how much the LT1 had left in it.

A credible argument can be made that, based on the top speeds, my wagon effectively gained 60 horses going from 2.56 to 3.42.
No way any tuning, even after upgrading from 87 to 91 octane, could ever possibly release 60 more horses from any 5.7L LT1 V8.

Those with 6L80Es, most likely have 3.08 or lesser axle gearing.
3.42 or 3.73 would REALLY liven those 6L80Es up, even without a tune.
3.73 would work even better for those with much larger tires.

Those SUVs with 4L60Es, most likely have 3.73 axle gearing, although some have even less.
Mine has 3.73. Every time I floor it, I die a little inside.
Having driven a Tahoe PPV that the owner blessed with 4.10, and witnessed no MpG penalty,
4.10 should be the minimum rear axle gear for ANYONE who wants / needs more power to the ground. 4.30 would work better for those with much larger tires.

Soon as I can afford BOTH 4.10 axles, it's getting both 4.10 axles.
If I'm wrong and it costs a highway MpG or three, it'll make up for it in smiles per gallon.