Pull the cargo panel, pull the subwoofer, and get some measurements. From there you can find out what fits. Or search for what other subs people have put in and look up their dimensions, then buy a sub similar to that.
UPDATE on 8" Shallow Mount Subwoofer drivers to fit in 01-02 OEM box
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The sub in mine is internal in the enclosure- the only thing I can see without tearing the enclosure open is a bass port and another different looking opening that looks similar to a bass port. I don't have time to tear it all apart and put it back together because my truck is needed for a relay race this weekend. And believe me, I've searched for any information from others who have replaced the sub itself but no luck. This is a picture of the enclosure someone is selling on EBay. I was hoping to find someone who has found a suitable replacement for just the sub. I'll probably just have to wait until next week and tear it apart all the way. I can't believe that with all the Bose systems out there somebody hasn't posted information on this Bose enclosure. I will do that when I figure it out. Thanks.
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Sorry, didn't realize the denali box was different. Might be better off grabbing a stock tahoe box and putting one of the known subs in it. Doubt that ported one would have enough airspace for a aftermarket sub
I don't know why I didn't think of that. Thanks.
Red Rocket... yes, you've discovered that the 2000-2002 Denali and Denali XL rear subwoofers are Bose "Accoustimass" tuned subwoofer units... the driver inside those tuned ported boxes is more like 5.25". This is not the box into which you can add an 8" driver, even if you did have time to take the box apart.
Bose Accoustimass systems in vehicles are similar to their audio design concept in home theater systems. There is a very small driver inside that is sonically "amplified" by tuned porting... like a yell leader who holds a non powered megaphone to his mouth from the football field to yell cheers up to the stands of the game attendees.
The electrical Bose amplifier attached to the sub is not only for that specfic sub, it is also to support the "surround sound" effects that the luxury Y91 sound systems have. You also have a center channel pair of speakers mounted in the console of your Denali, as well as "twiddlers" (distinct from tweeters) in the back pillars of your Denali, that all work a little bit different than the non Denali sound systems.
Once you unravel one piece, you'll soon find you might need to unravel all of it.
This thread was intended to explore the options for NON Denali, NON Bose Luxury, long wheel based Suburban / YXL factory enclosures. I suppose because there are more short wheel base Tahoes and Yukons on this forum, the discussion naturally gets pulled toward that application instead. And that's OK.
But to put an aftermarket 8" or 10" sub in your Denali, you will have to either obtain a Tahoe box, make a box, or get the MTX box. You will also need an amplifier, because the base portion of the Bose amplifier is only good for 100 watts. That isn't a guess, by the way. That is from the specifications for that particular Bose amplifier.
Bose Accoustimass systems in vehicles are similar to their audio design concept in home theater systems. There is a very small driver inside that is sonically "amplified" by tuned porting... like a yell leader who holds a non powered megaphone to his mouth from the football field to yell cheers up to the stands of the game attendees.
The electrical Bose amplifier attached to the sub is not only for that specfic sub, it is also to support the "surround sound" effects that the luxury Y91 sound systems have. You also have a center channel pair of speakers mounted in the console of your Denali, as well as "twiddlers" (distinct from tweeters) in the back pillars of your Denali, that all work a little bit different than the non Denali sound systems.
Once you unravel one piece, you'll soon find you might need to unravel all of it.
This thread was intended to explore the options for NON Denali, NON Bose Luxury, long wheel based Suburban / YXL factory enclosures. I suppose because there are more short wheel base Tahoes and Yukons on this forum, the discussion naturally gets pulled toward that application instead. And that's OK.
But to put an aftermarket 8" or 10" sub in your Denali, you will have to either obtain a Tahoe box, make a box, or get the MTX box. You will also need an amplifier, because the base portion of the Bose amplifier is only good for 100 watts. That isn't a guess, by the way. That is from the specifications for that particular Bose amplifier.
Hmmm. As a whole, the system rocks in all honesty. I did a DD mod and installed a Sony XAV0602BT (Bluetooth) with back-up cam and a PAC steering wheel control interface. That seemed to wake things up. I just want a bit more bass. I think I'll go with the MTX box and I'll get a good 2-ohm sub for it and wire it to the stock amp. Then if it isn't loud enough I can get a good 2-ohm stable amp. I don't think I'll have to do anything to the rest of the system. My HU has a sub preamp output if I go with the aftermarket amp. The Sony also has something they call "rear bass enhancer" with 4 settings for when the sub pre outs aren't used and it works pretty nice too. Like I said, the system sounds real good, just needs a bit more bass. Sorry, I realize my situation is different from what your intended audience is, but if it pulled me in I'm sure it will others with similar situations who will benefit. Thank you. Your insight into the Acoustimass system is invaluable.
I think Jeff's install that I reposted for you in this thread is about the most instructive and similar to your situation as you will find on TYF. You will notice that his "before" pic that I reposted shows the same Bose Accoustimass subwoofer box that you found a photo of on eBay. Same unit. Compare his pic with yours.
Anyway, if he did it, and was happy with it, then it sounds like you will be pleased with a similar installation. The advantage you have with the short wheel base and the MTX box is that you have a ready made solution for a 10" sub, rather than an 8". All things otherwise being equal as far as quality of components and design, the larger subwoofer driver is generally capable of reproducing lower frequencies at louder volumes than a smaller subwoofer.
If I were in your shoes with your vehicle, and wanted the MTX box, I'd strongly consider getting the version with the built in amplifier... especially since your aftermarket head unit already has a dedicated subwoofer out. The built in amp would save so much headache in the installation, finding a board for the amp, carpeting the board for the amp, sizing the amp for the driver, sizing the amp for the folded seat clearance, running wires under the seat but making sure they don't get pinched, stepped on, or shorted through the seat mechanisms or by kids and their sports apparati... the list goes on.
I don't work for any audio company, and never heard of MTX prior to my research into subs, but there is no way I'd pass up the opportunity to have all those issues solved for me inside one ready made, pre tested box.
Anyway, if he did it, and was happy with it, then it sounds like you will be pleased with a similar installation. The advantage you have with the short wheel base and the MTX box is that you have a ready made solution for a 10" sub, rather than an 8". All things otherwise being equal as far as quality of components and design, the larger subwoofer driver is generally capable of reproducing lower frequencies at louder volumes than a smaller subwoofer.
If I were in your shoes with your vehicle, and wanted the MTX box, I'd strongly consider getting the version with the built in amplifier... especially since your aftermarket head unit already has a dedicated subwoofer out. The built in amp would save so much headache in the installation, finding a board for the amp, carpeting the board for the amp, sizing the amp for the driver, sizing the amp for the folded seat clearance, running wires under the seat but making sure they don't get pinched, stepped on, or shorted through the seat mechanisms or by kids and their sports apparati... the list goes on.
I don't work for any audio company, and never heard of MTX prior to my research into subs, but there is no way I'd pass up the opportunity to have all those issues solved for me inside one ready made, pre tested box.
treehan77
TYF Fiend
I would argue to NOT get the amplified option. I would prefer just the enclosure. This would allow easy, cheap, flexible replacement options in the future if the sub or amp stops working.
I just ordered the MTX Thunderform box unloaded. I've never cared for MTX subs and instead of giving them $200 for theirs I got a JL 10W1V3-4 (4 ohm) for $150. I love JL subs and it's rated for slightly less than the volume of the box, mounting depth is compatible and excursion should be fine at .45". If it hits I can space the bottom of the panel out like Jeff did. I also decided to go ahead and get an amp for the sub and decided on the Soundstream Picasso Nano Monoblock PN1.450D, rated at 260 watts RMS at 4 ohms. It's small at 4.75" x 8" x 1.5" and I have a Picasso Nano in my Harley and it sounds great. It comes with a remote-mounted controller for adjustments. I picked it up for $90 and it will be a lot better than the 100 watt RMS one that MTX offered for $100. I'm sure I can find a place for it and the JL looks like it should be happy with around 200 watts RMS optimal so hopefully this should all work out great. I didn't want to spend this much money but after considering my options I didn't have much choice. The Bose enclosure wasn't upgradeable and choosing between a stock Tahoe enclosure and the MTX Thunderform was easy.
treehan77
TYF Fiend
Anybody have a later model like mine (2005) that has the sub area not cut out? Does the mtx thunder form come with a template to cut out for the speaker or what?
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