Upgrading Headlights and Fog/Running Lights

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wamba the fool

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As I'm 60 years old, I'm finding it difficult to see in the dark while driving my 2005 Yukon. Therefore, I'm looking for some affordable options to upgrade the forward-facing lights. Can you suggest some options that provide good value for money? Thanks!
 

Trey Hardy

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As I'm 60 years old, I'm finding it difficult to see in the dark while driving my 2005 Yukon. Therefore, I'm looking for some affordable options to upgrade the forward-facing lights. Can you suggest some options that provide good value for money? Thanks!
I use sea light brand led headlights from Amazon there 30$ a set so 90$ total before shipping and taxes
There pretty damn bright
If your headlights are really oxidized you can get some aftermarket ones for around 100$ on amazon but a lot of em are notorious for getting condensation in the lens so I would silicone around the lens before you install them
 

iamdub

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As I'm 60 years old, I'm finding it difficult to see in the dark while driving my 2005 Yukon. Therefore, I'm looking for some affordable options to upgrade the forward-facing lights. Can you suggest some options that provide good value for money? Thanks!

If I had a Yukon, I'd get factory Denali housings (projector) and install HIDs. As Trey said, if your current housings are oxidized, that will really cut down on light output.
 

mountie

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If I had a Yukon, I'd get factory Denali housings (projector) and install HIDs. As Trey said, if your current housings are oxidized, that will really cut down on light output.
Silly me, but I thought a Denali headlight housing is shaped differently than a regular Yukon?
( I should search that... maybe I will seem like a ... ( add your description )

UP date...... I think, it's the turn signal- housing is different......

Is the Denali's headlight harness-plug the same as a Yukon, so you can just swap easily??
 
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iamdub

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Silly me, but I thought a Denali headlight housing is shaped differently than a regular Yukon?
( I should search that... maybe I will seem like a ... ( add your description )

UP date...... I think, it's the turn signal- housing is different......

Is the Denali's headlight harness-plug the same as a Yukon, so you can just swap easily??

Yeah, it's the turn signal housings that are different. But, since you brought it up, the Denali headlights protrude outward about 1/4" more than the Yukon/Sierra headlights. Nothing you'd notice had I not said anything. I believe it's to provide clearance for the projector lens.

IIRC, the Denali used a 9005 in both the high and low beam spots. It could use the higher-wattage 9005 in the low beam since it was in a projector. You can easily mod the bulb to plug the Yukon's 9006 low beam harness plug to the 9005 bulb in the Denali headlight. Just use a razor knife to cut the tabs out of the inside of the socket. But, for maximum light output, and since they're projectors, I'd use 35W HIDs, around 5000K. I'd do the 4-hi mod so the HIDs aren't short cycled when flashing between his and lows.
 

Alex_M

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LEDs or HIDs are a great option *if* you also spend the money to upgrade to projector housings. Traditional halogen reflector housings should never be used with HID or LED bulbs because the beam patter is wrong and they blind oncoming traffic. Especially folks with night driving issues, astigmatism, etc.

There are some that claim to have made bulbs that work because they have corrected the location of the light source on the bulb, but this is not the case. They still do not work correctly because the shape and direction of the light coming out of the light source is different even if the location is the same.

Also, most are a more blue light and the wavelength is longer than traditional halogen bulbs making the reflector less able to direct the beam.

I've seen plenty of folks claim (and truly believe, I am not trying to fault anyone for not knowing better) their reflector/bulb combo actually works. Remember, just because you can see where the cutoff is trying to be does not mean that it is actually cutting off correctly. HID and LED bulbs still have more "bleed" over the cutoff that is difficult to see from the driver position because of the increased overall brightness making the bled over light look relatively less bright. It is still very blinding for incoming traffic, and for yourself when it is foggy.

Really, most of the time a fresh set of quality halogen bulbs and a new set of quality headlights is all you need and can be had for $100 or so. That said, upgrading to HIDs or LEDs with projectors is a step further. More pricy at probably $300-400 for a good setup, but will allowthe most visibility. In the case of HID and LEDs go for a color value between 3000k and 4000k. It is not the bright white or blue you see most often with these setups, it has more of the traditional warm halogen color which allows better visibility in rain, snow, fog, etc.

If your factory headlights are not too bad, you can often just polish them clear again however, after you do this I would have them sprayed with plastic adhesion promoter followed by clear coat. Once polished they lose their factory coating and will fog over again in a few months. With clear coat they will last years again.

Whatever you do, just make sure you use quality parts. The cheaper headlight housings are extremely hot or miss, not just in preventing water ingress into the housing but also in matching the factory beam pattern. I have a set right now I pulled off the shelf for temporary use that are clear but the beam pattern is terrible. I need to clean up a factory set and put back like I talked about above.
 
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wamba the fool

wamba the fool

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One EASY trick I did was installing the 4- high-fog relay circuit board from 'Fleece'. Allows your low beams to stay on when you switch to your high beams. It's a 5 minute install.

LEDs or HIDs are a great option *if* you also spend the money to upgrade to projector housings. Traditional halogen reflector housings should never be used with HID or LED bulbs because the beam patter is wrong and they blind oncoming traffic. Especially folks with night driving issues, astigmatism, etc.

There are some that claim to have made bulbs that work because they have corrected the location of the light source on the bulb, but this is not the case. They still do not work correctly because the shape and direction of the light coming out of the light source is different even if the location is the same.

Also, most are a more blue light and the wavelength is longer than traditional halogen bulbs making the reflector less able to direct the beam.

I've seen plenty of folks claim (and truly believe, I am not trying to fault anyone for not knowing better) their reflector/bulb combo actually works. Remember, just because you can see where the cutoff is trying to be does not mean that it is actually cutting off correctly. HID and LED bulbs still have more "bleed" over the cutoff that is difficult to see from the driver position because of the increased overall brightness making the bled over light look relatively less bright. It is still very blinding for incoming traffic, and for yourself when it is foggy.

Really, most of the time a fresh set of quality halogen bulbs and a new set of quality headlights is all you need and can be had for $100 or so. That said, upgrading to HIDs or LEDs with projectors is a step further. More pricy at probably $300-400 for a good setup, but will allowthe most visibility. In the case of HID and LEDs go for a color value between 3000k and 4000k. It is not the bright white or blue you see most often with these setups, it has more of the traditional warm halogen color which allows better visibility in rain, snow, fog, etc.

If your factory headlights are not too bad, you can often just polish them clear again however, after you do this I would have them sprayed with plastic adhesion promoter followed by clear coat. Once polished they lose their factory coating and will fog over again in a few months. With clear coat they will last years again.

Whatever you do, just make sure you use quality parts. The cheaper headlight housings are extremely hot or miss, not just in preventing water ingress into the housing but also in matching the factory beam pattern. I have a set right now I pulled off the shelf for temporary use that are clear but the beam pattern is terrible. I need to clean up a factory set and put back like I talked about above.
Do you have a recommendation for projector style replacements? Are these also available for the assembly below the headlights? (What is that assembly called?)
 

Alex_M

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On your Yukon I would go for the factory Denali headlights. Looks like the TYC's on RockAuto are about $60/ea plus shipping.

The lower assembly is just running lights and turn signals. Replacing those won't do anything for light output, but if they are discolored you can get a fresh set on RockAuto as well.

As for bulbs, I had good luck with Morimoto stuff back when I was doing conversions. I haven't done one in several years, but they were very high quality with good light output back then. I'd recommend their 35w 3000k HID kit. I'll drop a link and a screenshot.


1000001557.png
1000001558.png
 

mountie

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On your Yukon I would go for the factory Denali headlights. Looks like the TYC's on RockAuto are about $60/ea plus shipping.

The lower assembly is just running lights and turn signals. Replacing those won't do anything for light output, but if they are discolored you can get a fresh set on RockAuto as well.

As for bulbs, I had good luck with Morimoto stuff back when I was doing conversions. I haven't done one in several years, but they were very high quality with good light output back then. I'd recommend their 35w 3000k HID kit. I'll drop a link and a screenshot.


View attachment 420675
View attachment 420676
A couple years ago I bought the Morimoto HID for my Yukon fogs. ( I'll install then one of these days)..... But the Denali housings..... a great price, for sure!
 

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