gooffeyguy
Tom
Got it!
So basically, a semi-floating axle is pretty much like every other solid rear axle setup while a full floating is more like an independent axle.
I just wasn't familiar with that terminology.
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So basically, a semi-floating axle is pretty much like every other solid rear axle setup while a full floating is more like an independent axle.
I just wasn't familiar with that terminology.
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swathdiver
Full Access Member
No more P0442, Small Leak! For three years or so we'd been slowly chasing an emissions leak. Like clockwork, right before the truck was due to be refueled the code would set while the truck was off after it failed so many tests. Replacing the gas cap caused the code to set more frequently so it was sent back. I procrastinated for years about buying one of them fancy smoke machines. For the same price, I could throw a bunch of parts at it.
Well, while I was still debating that one in my head, we were dropping the spare for its semi-annual exercise and I asked the kids to crawl under with their phone and take a picture of the canister purge valve. They did and upon examination I was fairly certain that that line was the culprit.
Curiously, the disconnected line to the left, was leftover from the original emissions setup that was replaced when the truck was new and this remnant was left there and it goes up the fill neck. Bought a new canister purge with new style plug and lines and they are plastic, not rubber and shrink wrapped to the purge and should never leak. If it ever does, the whole set up will find itself in the trash for good.
Anyway, no more annoying CELs.
Well, while I was still debating that one in my head, we were dropping the spare for its semi-annual exercise and I asked the kids to crawl under with their phone and take a picture of the canister purge valve. They did and upon examination I was fairly certain that that line was the culprit.
Curiously, the disconnected line to the left, was leftover from the original emissions setup that was replaced when the truck was new and this remnant was left there and it goes up the fill neck. Bought a new canister purge with new style plug and lines and they are plastic, not rubber and shrink wrapped to the purge and should never leak. If it ever does, the whole set up will find itself in the trash for good.
Anyway, no more annoying CELs.
mountie
Supporting Member
I wonder if I have that same setup? I spent some dollars re-doing my " tighten fuel cap" issues, but the warning still comes back? ( My 2005 )
Hopefully you replaced the canister VENT valve.
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swathdiver
Full Access Member
Yeah, yeah, that's what I meant! LOL Guess I was thinking one thing and typing another even though the photo was right!
The cheapo in me just wanted to replace the hose but the new one is made of a different material. I'll cut the hoses off the old one and throw it in the spare parts bin for the fleet.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
My spare parts bin is overflowing lol!
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swathdiver
Full Access Member
Update. So when we changed the condenser we were rewarded with a CEL, the aforementioned B0083-39, the front left Impact Sensor for the airbags. I figured that our fooling around right above there damaged the sensor. And while that's still a possibility, the sensor was on its way out, it was split in half from corrosion.
So after a little investigating, it was determined that PN# 20926379 was the correct piece and were rather scarce and about $160 or so each. So a little more digging and I was able to surmise that the Dorman version, 590-222 was probably made in the same factory in Singapore so one was ordered from Rock Auto at considerable savings.
I used a pic to release the lock and the connector and a 10mm ratcheting wrench to remove the old one and install the new one. If my tool box had the right crow's foot wrench, I might have been able to use the torque wrench to tighten it to 71 inch pounds. I tightened it, but not as tight as it was originally.
On my truck the splash shield had to come down for access. Don't think the Sierra and Silverado trucks need to drop theirs.
To disable the airbags the battery was not disconnected, fuses 40 and 45 were pulled, a 10 and 15 amp fuse respectively. Now when testing the new one, the fuses were put back in and the key turned on, the DIC still had the airbag message and the airbag light was still on, I cycled the key before it finished booting up and this time the light went out. It probably would have gone out had I waited a moment. If it doesn't for you, cycle the key.
So that's it, this little talk should help. 1A Auto on youtube has a good video with a pickup.
So after a little investigating, it was determined that PN# 20926379 was the correct piece and were rather scarce and about $160 or so each. So a little more digging and I was able to surmise that the Dorman version, 590-222 was probably made in the same factory in Singapore so one was ordered from Rock Auto at considerable savings.
I used a pic to release the lock and the connector and a 10mm ratcheting wrench to remove the old one and install the new one. If my tool box had the right crow's foot wrench, I might have been able to use the torque wrench to tighten it to 71 inch pounds. I tightened it, but not as tight as it was originally.
On my truck the splash shield had to come down for access. Don't think the Sierra and Silverado trucks need to drop theirs.
To disable the airbags the battery was not disconnected, fuses 40 and 45 were pulled, a 10 and 15 amp fuse respectively. Now when testing the new one, the fuses were put back in and the key turned on, the DIC still had the airbag message and the airbag light was still on, I cycled the key before it finished booting up and this time the light went out. It probably would have gone out had I waited a moment. If it doesn't for you, cycle the key.
So that's it, this little talk should help. 1A Auto on youtube has a good video with a pickup.
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swathdiver
Full Access Member
Here's something cool to share. Some time ago we installed the GM Accessory, the 2-Way Advanced Remote Start into the truck. After programming, the option to relearn remotes and keys was taken away in the DIC. However, when using the Tech-2, you no longer have to program every remote again.
Let me explain, my wife's remote quit working and it was the second one programmed. In the menu, it let me choose the number 2 slot to program a new remote to that #2 slot and so we did, just that one and the others kept working and maintained their positions.
Originally, the truck could have 8 remotes programmed to it, now it is limited to 4.
Let me explain, my wife's remote quit working and it was the second one programmed. In the menu, it let me choose the number 2 slot to program a new remote to that #2 slot and so we did, just that one and the others kept working and maintained their positions.
Originally, the truck could have 8 remotes programmed to it, now it is limited to 4.
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swathdiver
Full Access Member
Gave the truck a full belly full of fuel and then took the fender height measurements and drove over to Sam's Club and borrowed a wall to aim the headlamps. We had to raise them 8 to 10 inches! The fogs are literally pointing at the ground in front of the truck but it was raining so that will have to wait for another day.
The truck looks like it was lifted much more than the numbers suggest but the math doesn't lie!
The truck looks like it was lifted much more than the numbers suggest but the math doesn't lie!
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swathdiver
Full Access Member
The previous owner put LED bulbs in the stock fog light housings and then tapped into the purple wire to power a 20 inch LED light bar in the bumper cut out on the Sierra. While not a fan of adding extra lights to my vehicles anymore, the other night that light bar when turned on lit up the desolate highway we were travelling on. Little chance for a deer or hog to run out onto the road without plenty of warning with the coverage all three provided. Florida law however, does not allow for 5 lights on at once, just 4 and only two can be fogs and only two can be head lights.
Anyway, a few days later the Sierra went off-roading after it rained and the light bar gave up the ghost and one of the stock fogs was half full of water. Upon closer inspection it was discovered that these LED bulbs cooked the housings, cracking and melting them. New stock housings are at least $90 and the bulbs are about $22 each but my daughter didn't want stock as her headlights are LEDs. So Dad, me, did some googling and came across some Morimoto's and when they came in today we put them on.
We moved the mounts over from the originals and RTV'd them into place so they wouldn't move or jiggle and Julia said that they throw out a ton of light to the right and left. I disconnected the burned out light bar and mended the wiring until we replace it later on. Mission accomplished.
For the Yukon, we replaced the rear end links on the sway bar the other day and went to replace the inner tie rods but the new tie rod on the driver's side was not cooperating. Heavy whacks with a 24 oz hammer failed to convince it to release from the knuckle. We looked all over for the 3lb sledge to no avail so I ordered another from Vaughan and it should be here in a few days. Then we'll persuade those tie rods to leave the knuckle for a few minutes while we attach the new inners and put it all back together.
Wisdom teeth and birthday parties and of course the girls' social lives threaten to drag this simple task out to who knows when! LOL
Anyway, a few days later the Sierra went off-roading after it rained and the light bar gave up the ghost and one of the stock fogs was half full of water. Upon closer inspection it was discovered that these LED bulbs cooked the housings, cracking and melting them. New stock housings are at least $90 and the bulbs are about $22 each but my daughter didn't want stock as her headlights are LEDs. So Dad, me, did some googling and came across some Morimoto's and when they came in today we put them on.
We moved the mounts over from the originals and RTV'd them into place so they wouldn't move or jiggle and Julia said that they throw out a ton of light to the right and left. I disconnected the burned out light bar and mended the wiring until we replace it later on. Mission accomplished.
For the Yukon, we replaced the rear end links on the sway bar the other day and went to replace the inner tie rods but the new tie rod on the driver's side was not cooperating. Heavy whacks with a 24 oz hammer failed to convince it to release from the knuckle. We looked all over for the 3lb sledge to no avail so I ordered another from Vaughan and it should be here in a few days. Then we'll persuade those tie rods to leave the knuckle for a few minutes while we attach the new inners and put it all back together.
Wisdom teeth and birthday parties and of course the girls' social lives threaten to drag this simple task out to who knows when! LOL
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