Useless Information

[swathdiver]

Aired up that tire and it hasn't leaked a drop since. Wife has been using the truck since hers was down and I've been down recovering from the antics of the post above. At times the short and long trims are at zero, other times positive and others negative but the right bank seems a mite different than the left. The injectors are pulsing a hundredth less than the other side, that's how little but there is a difference.

Hired one of my daughter's classmates to help out with the truck and around the house over the weekend. Nice fella, his parents have done well in training him up. He successfully drilled through the broken stabilizer bar bolt but the easy out snapped off inside. None of my bits could make a dent in that Irwin easy out. Now what?

 

[Kenny D]

You may need to look online and order you a carbide tipped or solid carbide drill bit. You can check with MSC industrial or McMaster Carr. Possibly if you have a Grainger close by, they may have one.

 

[kbuskill]

Aired up that tire and it hasn't leaked a drop since. Wife has been using the truck since hers was down and I've been down recovering from the antics of the post above. At times the short and long trims are at zero, other times positive and others negative but the right bank seems a mite different than the left. The injectors are pulsing a hundredth less than the other side, that's how little but there is a difference.

Hired one of my daughter's classmates to help out with the truck and around the house over the weekend. Nice fella, his parents have done well in training him up. He successfully drilled through the broken stabilizer bar bolt but the easy out snapped off inside. None of my bits could make a dent in that Irwin easy out. Now what?

I have never had much luck with an "easy" out. 95% of the time they break 100% of the time...

 

[PG01]

I have never had much luck with an "easy" out. 95% of the time they break 100% of the time...

X2...

 

[Kenny D]

An easy out is really just for bolts that are broken from over torque or sheared off and not for seized or rusted in place. If you break a bolt trying to remove it, it is best just to drill it out and re-tap or get a Heli-coil kit because it isn't coming out.

 

[swathdiver]

You fellas are right. I'll have to drill it out and use a helicoil so the original bolt size/type can be used.

 

[swathdiver]

Irwin is sending me some new bits but I reckon I should drill clear through the old bolt and do it again and again in 1/64th increments until there's nothing left. Then I can either use a tap to push out the remnants and clean up the existing threads or go up a size and use a helicoil.

So, will M35 type drill bits suffice for a hand drill or should I use M42s? Someone on another forum mentioned that Norseman's standard bits are so good that one doesn't need to use M35s. I just want this done and over with. My DeWalt bits and lots of names long forgotten did not work.

 

[swathdiver]

On another note my Long Term Fuel Trims at idle are in the negative, between -2 and -8 but underway they are in the positive, between 2 and 3 on both banks. The right bank is slightly further away from zero compared with the left bank most of the time but not all of the time.

From what I can hear and from what my helpers noted from below while the engine was running, there are no exhaust leaks. I was thinking of re-torquing the intake manifold to spec but need one for inch pounds, even converting to foot pounds, mine are too big and don't go that low. Need to do a visual inspection and maybe one with propane to check for leaks too.

Any other ideas as to what this could be? Anything I should watch for with the Tech2?

 

[Kenny D]

Irwin is sending me some new bits but I reckon I should drill clear through the old bolt and do it again and again in 1/64th increments until there's nothing left. Then I can either use a tap to push out the remnants and clean up the existing threads or go up a size and use a helicoil.

So, will M35 type drill bits suffice for a hand drill or should I use M42s? Someone on another forum mentioned that Norseman's standard bits are so good that one doesn't need to use M35s. I just want this done and over with. My DeWalt bits and lots of names long forgotten did not work.

Depending on how center you are on the starting drill hole, you may not be able to salvage the original threads. If you are real close to center, once you start to see the appearance of threads, you can probably work it out with a punch but if the threads are really rusted together you will just end up destroying them anyway. As far as using a heli-coil, if it isn't a blind hole I would be careful you don't end up pushing the coil through as you install the new bolt.

 

[swathdiver]

Thanks Kenny, it is not a blind hole. While the bolt is long, about 2 inches, it only goes through about 1/2 inch of frame and about an inch of the bolt protrudes from the other side. Not enough room up there to put a nut on it or even needle nose vise grips. I forgot about the helicoil being for blind holes. Maybe this is above my pay grade now...