Useless Information

[swathdiver]

Lol, I even have the ball joint press with truck adapters for the removal/installation.

I only had to do the lowers, the uppers were fine. If I had to do both uppers and lowers I would just replace the whole arm assemblies then get an alignment afterward

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18

I thought about replacing the lower ball joints too but then read how much pressure was needed and do not have that at home. Do you have the part numbers for the adapters and press by chance? What did you use to press them out and in?

 

[gooffeyguy]

I thought about replacing the lower ball joints too but then read how much pressure was needed and do not have that at home. Do you have the part numbers for the adapters and press by chance? What did you use to press them out and in?

I used this kit

https://www.harborfreight.com/ball-joint-service-kit-for-2wd-and-4wd-vehicles-63279.html

I used an air chisel to remove the lip that secures the factory joint in the control arm. Then used a hand sledge hammer to just pound the crap out of it to drop it out of the control arm.

The new one pressed in easily with this kit, after cleaning up the hole it fits into of any surface rust.

The new ones I bought (Moog) used a large C-clip to safely secure it instead of how the factory ones have the top lip mushed over.

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18

 

[wjburken]

I used this kit

https://www.harborfreight.com/ball-joint-service-kit-for-2wd-and-4wd-vehicles-63279.html

I used an air chisel to remove the lip that secures the factory joint in the control arm. Then used a hand sledge hammer to just pound the crap out of it to drop it out of the control arm.

The new one pressed in easily with this kit, after cleaning up the hole it fits into of any surface rust.

The new ones I bought (Moog) used a large C-clip to safely secure it instead of how the factory ones have the top lip mushed over.

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18

Thats similar to the kit I borrowed from Autozone to do my lower ball joints. Was able to use it to press them out and then press the new ones in. I used the Moog’s with the c-clip as well.

 

[gooffeyguy]

Thats similar to the kit I borrowed from Autozone to do my lower ball joints. Was able to use it to press them out and then press the new ones in. I used the Moog’s with the c-clip as well.

Yeah, I think I actually only hit it with a hand sledge to get it started/broke free, then used the press to get it out the rest of the way

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18

 

[swathdiver]

I used this kit

https://www.harborfreight.com/ball-joint-service-kit-for-2wd-and-4wd-vehicles-63279.html

I used an air chisel to remove the lip that secures the factory joint in the control arm. Then used a hand sledge hammer to just pound the crap out of it to drop it out of the control arm.

The new one pressed in easily with this kit, after cleaning up the hole it fits into of any surface rust.

The new ones I bought (Moog) used a large C-clip to safely secure it instead of how the factory ones have the top lip mushed over.

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18

What did you use for power to seat the new ball joint? A ratchet, air, etc.

 

[gooffeyguy]

What did you use for power to seat the new ball joint? A ratchet, air, etc.

I can't really remember if I used my air impact or my 1/2" ratchet with a 3' persuasion bar (pipe) stuck over it.

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18

 

[wjburken]

I can't really remember if I used my air impact or my 1/2" ratchet with a 3' persuasion bar (pipe) stuck over it.

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18

I used a 24” breaker bar when the going got tough.

 

[swathdiver]

I can't really remember if I used my air impact or my 1/2" ratchet with a 3' persuasion bar (pipe) stuck over it.

Ok, no shop air here so new arms it will be.

 

[gooffeyguy]

The price for premium (93) fuel has been rather low lately ($2.50-2.70), and the last 3 fill-ups have been with that and not E85.

I filled up last night. The low fuel warning came on right as I turned into the station. My DIC said 24.0 gallons used and my trip odometer said 335 since last fill-up.

It took 24.3 gallons @$2.58 a gallon. My Average Economy on the DIC said 13.7. Most of my driving is around town and since it's been cold I use remote start to let it warm up often. 18.8 cents per mile fuel cost.

When I use E85, my Average Economy on the DIC is usually 11-12 mpg and the cost has been $2.15-2.20 a gallon. 18-20 cents per mile depending on price.

AWD 6.2l 6000lb Land Yaht

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18

 

[swathdiver]

The price for premium (93) fuel has been rather low lately ($2.50-2.70), and the last 3 fill-ups have been with that and not E85.

I filled up last night. The low fuel warning came on right as I turned into the station. My DIC said 24.0 gallons used and my trip odometer said 335 since last fill-up.

It took 24.3 gallons @$2.58 a gallon. My Average Economy on the DIC said 13.7. Most of my driving is around town and since it's been cold I use remote start to let it warm up often. 18.8 cents per mile fuel cost.

When I use E85, my Average Economy on the DIC is usually 11-12 mpg and the cost has been $2.15-2.20 a gallon. 18-20 cents per mile depending on price.

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18

You're lucky, they're a lot more proud of 93 around here! Mystery premium from Sam's Club is $2.65 and everyone else starts out around $3.10 and goes up to $3.65 or so. E85 is still $2.29 and $2.39 for E15. That's awesome though to drive a 400 horsepower, seven-passenger, all wheel drive truck for less then twenty cents a mile!