Walchit's 2000 XL

[Walchit]

Took my Ford 500 to advanced auto and had them run my codes, switched in 2 spark plugs and coil things on from my parts car and it runs like a champ again. So I took the xl up there, had to buy fuses so the scan tool would connect and got a P0440, Which is vacuum or loose gas cap I guess. Was kinda hoping it was gonna be the oil pressure sending unit.

Exhaust clamp showed up, took me about ten minutes to get the top bolt in, then about 20 mins to decide the bottom one was gonna have to go in first. Had to have my wife fish it out from under the truck about 30 times, then asked God for some divine intervention. Finally got the bolt started immediately after that. Then after I got it tight, I had to loosen it a little to get it to swing up so I could get the top bolt in. Then got it all tightened down and I still have a slight leak, it's not as bad though for sure. Gonna toss my buddy's on his Tahoe in the morning, it's a front driver's side one, so it should go a lot smoother.

 

[Walchit]

My buddy's Tahoe needs 3 more clamps, lol

 

[Walchit]

Getting the area behind my garage ready to start on this suspension. Figured I don't wanna be rushed to finish in a weekend if I use this shop or my buddy's garage. Been moving in a fresh layer of crushed concrete. Thinking about putting down some Portland cement or something to get it where I can roll the jack around at least, lol

 

[Walchit]

Got started on the rear today. Got the rear control arms and shock back in on the driver's side. Got the sway bar off, but the broken bolt seems to have already had someone drilling on it. But, they missed pretty much completely, and there is a hole next to the broken bolt, lol. One on the other side had a nut and bolt, so I think they must have gave up on the second one, idk.

I need to watch some YouTube videos or something. I've always gave up or asked for help on broken bolts in the past. I'm gonna have to get the other side put together so I can jack it up higher too.

 

[Walchit]

Hopefully I will make some progress tomorrow.

 

[Walchit]

Had to cut out the upper control arm and spend 100 bucks on bolts. When I greased the bottom ball joint I found a tear in the boot. I don't think I did it, because I did notice it was kind of deformed and the box was pretty beat up. I wish I would have inspected it better before I put it on, because I really don't want to take it back apart. Idk how hard it is to just change the boot, but I definitely don't want to change the control arm or press the bj out.

I have the torsion bar out on the driver's side, and it just stopped raining, hopefully I can get something done today.

Oh and I grabbed this cluster for 50 bucks today...

 

[Tonyrodz]

Had to cut out the upper control arm and spend 100 bucks on bolts. When I greased the bottom ball joint I found a tear in the boot. I don't think I did it, because I did notice it was kind of deformed and the box was pretty beat up. I wish I would have inspected it better before I put it on, because I really don't want to take it back apart. Idk how hard it is to just change the boot, but I definitely don't want to change the control arm or press the bj out.

I have the torsion bar out on the driver's side, and it just stopped raining, hopefully I can get something done today.

Oh and I grabbed this cluster for 50 bucks today...

I didn't know you could just swap a boot out if the bj was still good.

 

[Walchit]

I know you can't order just a boot. Moog customer service told me it's fine with a hole in it and the grease will keep the water and dirt out, lol. Rock auto is weird about their warranty, it had a section that asked if it could be fixed by myself or a Mechanic. Then wanted to know a dollar amount that I wanted for fixing it. I just put the price of the control arm, then put another note that I just wanted a boot or a ball joint and not the whole arm. After doing all of this work I'm gonna have a hard time taking it to get an alignment with a hole in it, so maybe I will buy a ball joint and try to swap the boots, idk.

I got the wheels back on and she looks pretty level. The camber is on Baja status though, I'm gonna jack it up and loosen these UCAs and see if I can do some finagling. I really have no idea what I'm doing though, and caster seems like it's beyond my skill set.

 

[Walchit]

Guess I never updated this thread after I lost oil pressure and started knocking on my first long test drive. It rode really nice at 75-80 on the highway though, lol

Those of you in the what did you do to your 800 today thread, know about the 294k engine I grabbed from the junkyard to rebuild. ($518) It had a spun cam bearing and is at the machine shop now to see if it's worth putting back together.

I ordered a Truck Norris cam, new lifters and all of the seals and bearings (hopefully stock size is gonna work)

I have a couple questionable pistons, @iamdub you think I should just get flat tops? These are cheap enough, and I saw a review saying they updated the design. Can I use the floating wristpin thingies on my gen 3 rods?

eBay

vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com

Also,, with the Truck Norris cam the valves won't hit the top of the piston?

I will get more pics as I'm putting it back together, I need a cameraman, lol

 

[Walchit]

These are press in, if that would be better

Sealed Power H855CP Speed-Pro Hypereutectic Pistons | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Speed-Pro Hypereutectic Pistons with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Pistons at Summit Racing.

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There is also this set with the coating like the NPR pistons, but they are getting out of my price range...

Sealed Power H1132CPA Speed-Pro Hypereutectic Pistons | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Speed-Pro Hypereutectic Pistons with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Pistons at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com