Want to lift. Don't know where to start

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

joltman

Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2011
Posts
60
Reaction score
2
Location
Castle Rock, CO
I have a 2002 Tahoe LT with AutoRide. I replaced the compressor and the rear shocks with parts from Arnott. However, the front suspension hasn't been touched ever. I couldn't find any aftermarket AutoRide shocks. The OE shocks are over $600 each. Currently, there's an issue when I brake and I can feel the pedel pulse. I've replaced the front wheel hubs over Christmas 2013 and 3 years ago the pitman and idler arms were replaced. When I hit a bump, the steering wheel makes a noise. Needless to say, the ride is awful.

Wife and I moved to Denver and we love going to the mountains. We found our way up a road that was quite bumpy and we really enjoyed ourselves. We'd like to do more of this type of "offroading" and go camping. Nothing extreme at all. Just going up some bumpy roads or trails to get to campsites. This brings me to my questions.

Since the ride on the 'Hoe is so bad right now, it'd be great to get it fixed. Since the front shocks are so expensive (due to Autoride, ~$600 per) I think it'd be better to scrap the whole AutoRide and go with something simpler. So the choices are:

1. Scrap AutoRide and replace with normal suspension/shocks. There'd be no lift here and we'd just get the truck back to a workable condition. Hopefully, this would fix the steering wheel "bumping noise" issue and the pedal pulse during braking.

2. Scrap AutoRide and get a 3" lift. This is where I get lost. I have no idea what "keys" are or where these spacers go. I know nothing. Would coils be involved?? If we went this route, it'd be so that we can get over some bigger bumps when we do some trails/offroads. Again, I'm not doing anything extreme (no roack climbing, no mudding, etc). If you've ever been up to Silver Dollar Lake near Georgetown, CO, you know what I'm talking about. I also have to take into account that we'd still need to tow our 22' Layton Skyline camper. That might entail a new, lowered, removeable trailer hitch.

I'm thinking that since the suspension needs so much work anyway, that getting a lift kit (of just 3") would be a minimal increase in cost. I wouldn't be installing this myself. We'd leave the stock wheels/tires for now. The new wheels/tires would come later down the road. I don't even know what I could fit that would give me a little more grip than my Firestones now. I wouldn't want something with too much road noise. I really need to know where to start. Is the second option above even feasible? I really don't know what I should do. It's either this, or get a new Tahoe/Yukon. Wife and I still need to tow things, so no choice there. Do you have any links I could read that could help me understand terms/options?

Help me Tahoe/Yukon-Forum. You're my only hope.
 

SRTH8R

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 8, 2014
Posts
472
Reaction score
134
Location
Littleton, CO
Your steering clunk sounds like a intermediate shaft. You brakes pulsing sounds like your rotors are warped. Not sure what is involved in getting rid of auto ride. I've rode in a couple vehicles with differant keys in it and I felt they ride like crap. Looking at a 4-6 inch lift myself, probably going with BDS.
 
OP
OP
joltman

joltman

Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2011
Posts
60
Reaction score
2
Location
Castle Rock, CO
Your steering clunk sounds like a intermediate shaft. You brakes pulsing sounds like your rotors are warped. Not sure what is involved in getting rid of auto ride. I've rode in a couple vehicles with differant keys in it and I felt they ride like crap. Looking at a 4-6 inch lift myself, probably going with BDS.

Thanks for getting back to me! I thought that the rotors could be warped too, however, I've replaced the rotors/pads in front and back with my father-in-law. What's strange is that they're still squeaking. It's possible that we did a bad job replacing them.

The steering column clunk could be the intermediate shaft. I'm having the truck looked at this week. They should be able to tell me.
 

JOKR88

TYF Newbie
Joined
Aug 30, 2014
Posts
4
Reaction score
0
Location
Las Vegas
I have heard by a couple people that brand new brakes will squeak for a while I don't know if this is true or not it's never happened to me. might depend on what material brake shoes you are using.

as for your lift I personally would go with the 3 inch just to keep costs down. I have an 02 Yukon that I just purchased a 3 inch lift for. have not yet had the time to install it but the price was a lot better than anything else.
 
OP
OP
joltman

joltman

Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2011
Posts
60
Reaction score
2
Location
Castle Rock, CO
I've been told to go to 4 Wheel Parts in Aurora CO. I just got back from there. I have my 'Hoe scheduled for a complete AutoRide rip out. They'll be throwing some new Bilstien 5100 series on front and rear along with some new coils in the rear. The coils will also have new air bags so I can still tow things around. This was going to be cheaper in the long run as the only kit that's available to replace the stock AutoRide (kit from Arnott) doesn't use premium shocks. So, I won't be doing a lift now, but down the road, I'll be able to add some spacers in and get that 3" lift I want.

Next on the list is to start saving for new wheels and tires! Probably should get that sexy HD hood, too. I'll let you guys know how it turns out. Truck is scheduled to go in next week.
 
OP
OP
joltman

joltman

Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2011
Posts
60
Reaction score
2
Location
Castle Rock, CO
Update!!!

Just to update everyone on my question. I got the new shocks/springs/airbags installed. That was not cheap. But the truck rode _so_ much better than it had. I'm still getting some heavy bumps when I go over major road seams, pot holes. I think that's because of the standard ride height of the truck. It seems to ride pretty low. I think if I had that 3" lift I want, that the ride would be much better as the shocks could travel more before hitting the bump stops on the frame.

Also, after the install, 4 Wheel Parts informed me that the upper/lower ball joints, idler arm, pitman arm, and inner/outer tie rods all needed to be replaced. That wasn't a huge shock to me. When I would do any heavy breaking, I would feel pulsating on the brake pedal. Sometimes it was quite severe. After they replaced all that, the pulsating decreased drastically. There is still some minor pulsating, but I believe this to be brake disk related.
 
OP
OP
joltman

joltman

Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2011
Posts
60
Reaction score
2
Location
Castle Rock, CO
just a cautionary tip, check that you actually have a skid plate for the plastic gas tank, a rock would ruin a good outing
Thanks for the advice! I knew I'd want one for the oil pan, but I didn't think about the gas tank.
 

middelgriff1

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2013
Posts
189
Reaction score
10
Location
Maryland
I'd say those bumps are normal. I'll hit some potholes every now and then and can feel them through the wheel a decent amount. I guess you just get used to it...
 
OP
OP
joltman

joltman

Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2011
Posts
60
Reaction score
2
Location
Castle Rock, CO
I'd say those bumps are normal. I'll hit some potholes every now and then and can feel them through the wheel a decent amount. I guess you just get used to it...

Even with your lift you still hear those loud bumps? Your truck looks very similar to what I'd like to do to mine. Any advice? Thanks!
 
Top