What did you do to your 2015-2020 K2XX Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[K2 Kaiju]

HMM I have never had a issue with installing sway bars with just a jack
both the front wheels have to be off the ground to release tension, rear wheels have to be on the ground to release tension so use ramps.
for me it's always been a piece of cake
rear is super easy
front you just put 1 d bushing on loose, then the 2nd d bushing on loose, attach one end link loose, attach other end link loose. tighten everything up done.

I used ramps each time so thats probably my problem (and Im old). I could get the frame bracket screws started, but all of my 16mm sockets were too thick-walled to get on the screw once it was halfway in. One arm holding bar in place, and other trying to rachet was craptastic. Using the old screws and a 10mm 1/2 impact made quick work of it. Back was easy since I didnt even try new screws...

 

[Doubeleive]

I used ramps each time so thats probably my problem (and Im old). I could get the frame bracket screws started, but all of my 16mm sockets were too thick-walled to get on the screw once it was halfway in. One arm holding bar in place, and other trying to rachet was craptastic. Using the old screws and a 10mm 1/2 impact made quick work of it. Back was easy since I didnt even try new screws...

if the wheels on the front are not off the ground then you are fighting the sway bar, even with 1 wheel off the ground you are still fighting the sway bar
both wheels off the ground, with frame supported allows the control arms to lower and release the sway bar tension.
the front sway works with wheels on the ground (constant tension), the rear sway bar works when there is sway and the body moves or lifts applying (counter tension)

 

[Thrust]

You're better off not using the Hotchkis supplied hardware. It's cheap and will rust very quickly. If you feel like replacing the GM hardware get some A2-70 Alan head chrome bolts. They are metric.

 

[Doubeleive]

NEW OEM GM 2nd Row All-Weather Floor Liner 23237407 Chevy Tahoe GMC Yukon 15-20 | eBay

Grand Tex Part Number: 23237407. About the manufacturer. Is this the correct part?.

www.ebay.com

This was second row - I think they accepted $59 best offer. I had to get 3rd row at dealer for $80...

I almost bought those until I realized they were for the short wheel base.......
they still had the best price @$80 for the Suburban

 

[K2 Kaiju]

Started adding speakers, amp, sub to my new K2, then stopped after putting in the kicker ksc270 speakers to the corner dash locations. Somehow the tiny 2 3/4 speakers completely changed the whole sound. More clarity, volume, and bass with less distortion - and not just a little improvement. It has to be the crossovers lending power somehow back to the door 6x9s. Best $60 mod I have ever done - just beware, they look like a joke...

 

[k_arnold72]

Started adding speakers, amp, sub to my new K2, then stopped after putting in the kicker ksc270 speakers to the corner dash locations. Somehow the tiny 2 3/4 speakers completely changed the whole sound. More clarity, volume, and bass with less distortion - and not just a little improvement. It has to be the crossovers lending power somehow back to the door 6x9s. Best $60 mod I have ever done - just beware, they look like a joke...

If you have bose(possibly even if you don't), the speakers you removed were 2 ohm and the kickers are 4 ohm. So the amp is sending them less power

 

[K2 Kaiju]

That could be why they work so well - maybe sending more pow to the others speakers? The bass is so much better - not necessarily from these speakers - but as a whole. The stock corners are overdriven and trash everything. I had put in some 2 ohm coax in the doors on my burb, but all I got was painful treble with no bass (I left the stock corners). Had to add amp, sub, and still probably still needed another amp to drive the speakers. This is just right for my needs now, and I dont want to mess up the balance. Also save the space sub was gonna take in this shorty. Was a little bit of a PITA getting at the screws that close to the windshield, but worth the effort. Those little capacitors on the positive lead have magic fooseball in them while the bose corners are the devil...

 

[k_arnold72]

Yup, frees up more power that the amp can send to the other speakers. I had a similar experience. I replaced the 4 door speakers with infinity kappas. Which are 2 ohm on paper, but when I put a multimeter on them,
the bose speakers were lower in actual resistance. I lost a bit of bass, but I'm just living with it till I add a four channel amp to the doors and replace the bose sub with a beefier(also amplified) 6.5". And yeah the top two dash screws are a PITA.

That could be why they work so well - maybe sending more pow to the others speakers? The bass is so much better - not necessarily from these speakers - but as a whole. The stock corners are overdriven and trash everything. I had put in some 2 ohm coax in the doors on my burb, but all I got was painful treble with no bass (I left the stock corners). Had to add amp, sub, and still probably still needed another amp to drive the speakers. This is just right for my needs now, and I dont want to mess up the balance. Also save the space sub was gonna take in this shorty. Was a little bit of a PITA getting at the screws that close to the windshield, but worth the effort. Those little capacitors on the positive lead have magic fooseball in them while the bose corners are the devil...

 

[Doubeleive]

If you have the Bose noise reduction disabling that brightens it up as well

 

[Sparksalot]

Took it on a road trip.