What did you do to your 2015-2020 K2XX Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Walkerfever

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Anyone tried to change one of these little bastard lids before? Ya we'll have fun with that..... The tool does not work, I got it out about a 1/4" then had to go in from the back and cut it out, then had to pound the cigarette plug back in until it was flush again :mad: the metal part is supposed to pull out then the plastic shroud is removable,but nooooo got it done though
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I was able to get mine out of the rear of the center console without too much issue. It's a spare I don't plan to use now, you don't need a replacement do you? lol
 

Doubeleive

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I was able to get mine out of the rear of the center console without too much issue. It's a spare I don't plan to use now, you don't need a replacement do you? lol
I already replaced it, the old one had a broken lid, fought me both ways lol
the metal part is supposed to just pull out with the tool, but would only come out about a 1/4, so I had to pull the console out and cut the plastic shroud out from the backside
the new plastic shroud with the flip lid popped right in no problem, the metal part then had to be pressed in and I didn't really have the tool do that so I used the rubber end of a very large screw driver and hit it in until it was flush again, I managed to do it without damaging the plastic console which would probably have been $100+ (used) to replace
$9 (oem) part but was not exactly "easy" like it should have been.
luckily getting the console out is only 2 screws and pop-clips
 

ss4chad

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@ss4chad i would highly reconsider the cross drilled and slotted rotors. While they are great at shedding head, they warp incredibly easy and can chew through brake pads. Which is fine in a race setting where they are replaced every race, on a DD, not so ideal. if you are looking for something with better heat dissipation i would go with just dimpled rotors, they are massive improvement over stock in terms of heat dissipation, without sacrificing rotor strength and pad life
Thanks but I will stick with the setup that I have on the Yukon as well as my '13 Sierra and my '02 Camaro and three other trucks and two other cars I've had over the years.
The cross drilled holes in the rotors dissipate heat faster and more efficiently than a solid rotor, the slots in the rotors remove material from the pads and discards it keeping it from glazing the rotors for a longer period of time, unlike a solid rotor.
My wife drives the Bus (Yukon XL) like a Honda Civic, its drag race for her from light to light, says she hates it when the little cars get in front of her!!
Damm Woman, 20 ft ahead of you ain't gonna kill ya!!

Putting good brakes on the Yukon for her and the kids is a good idea, yeah they look cool too but very few people say 'Wow, nice brake rotors!' But they do compliment the new wheels, pics are coming soon!

Chad
 

the 18th letter

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Last night after a nice evening out filled with spirits and a ride home with my lady writing bedroom checks on the way home, I didn’t put the Yukon in the garage and left sunroof tilted and of course it rained like hell. Not too bad inside considering the water that came down last night. Leads me to wonder can BB can program the sunroof to close when you turn the car off?
 

Doubeleive

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Last night after a nice evening out filled with spirits and a ride home with my lady writing bedroom checks on the way home, I didn’t put the Yukon in the garage and left sunroof tilted and of course it rained like hell. Not too bad inside considering the water that came down last night. Leads me to wonder can BB can program the sunroof to close when you turn the car off?
I'm going to say no, they don't do anything involving the bcm @BlackBearPerf
 

gtrslngrchris

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Took my door card off to replace the driver window regulator (I had expertly diagnosed a stuck regulator based on previous experience and absolutely zero investigating) only to discover that it was just the stupid foam block that had detached from the door skin and was blocking the glass halfway down. I looked around for awhile to see what I could re-adhere it with and ended up just putting a line of black RTV on it and squished it into the door skin. I guess I have a new regulator for whenever this one eventually dies...

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