What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[R3cord303]

Don't think about it- be about it. That dirty urinal water color of your current bulbs is doing an injustice. Get whatever will match your DRLs.

pft. Will see. This month I fixed DRLs and am gonna take care of the cabin air filter. Next month I’m buying HPTuners to disable AFM. Two months from now I’m gonna do LED headlights and fog lights (maybe reverse lights too). Plan is Morimoto 2stroke gen 2 for headlights and a guy on facebook has Morimoto 2stroke Gen 1s which are supposed to fit the fog lights housings. He’s had them for sale for like 4 months so hopefully I’ll be able to get them for like $50

 

[randeez]

the fuel st/lt trim learning will be disabled under open loop/enrichment(or enleanment? dunno it thats a word but think deacceleration) conditions.

basically when the desired o2 reading isnt stoich its disabled, the calculation will still happen but wont contribute to the long term.

 

[Doubeleive]

All looks pretty good. The long terms are at 5. That's near the top end of what you'd like to see. Watch those for the next little bit and see if they keep creeping up.

The short terms are striving for stoich. The long terms are "more important" because they adjust based on what the short terms have been doing. If it sees the short terms adding fuel consistently, the long term bumps up so the short term gets closer to 0.

Lame analogy:

The short term guy is shooting free throws. His normal shot (0 trim) keeps falling short, so he shoots a little harder (5 trim) and starts making them (stoich). The long term guy says "we want your trim at 0“, so he moves the free throw line closer to the hoop (long term trim 5). Now the short term guy goes back to his normal shot (0 trim) and still makes it.

This is a constant game between the two. If the shooter starts launching them off the backboard, the long term moves the line back again. On and on. If the long term ever gets to +-25 it's gonna throw the rich or lean code for that bank.


What's the volatility thing you're talking about? I don't see that...

James said the "fuel volatility low" is normal it's in the list I pictured, thanks for the info

 

[bfourman]

Got this a few weeks back, but forgot to snap a pic. I got tired of looking at the cracked dash so I carpeted it. I had a big crack at the passenger airbag and a lot of little ones behind the gauge cluster.



I think it looks much better, the wife isn’t as convinced.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/2007-2013-...R-MAT-black-/161779640910?txnId=1846349757006

 

[HiHoeSilver]

Got this a few weeks back, but forgot to snap a pic. I got tired of looking at the cracked dash so I carpeted it. I had a big crack at the passenger airbag and a lot of little ones behind the gauge cluster.



I think it looks much better, the wife isn’t as convinced.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/2007-2013-...R-MAT-black-/161779640910?txnId=1846349757006

Hmmm. Have to agree with wife on this one. Looks ok up until the center console. From there to the right looks too long, like your welcome mat is hanging off the front of the porch.

 

[R3cord303]

Okay fellas. I'm back, post cabin air filter retrofit install. After 218,000 miles, there was a metric crap ton of pine needles and dust in the HVAC box thing in front of the evaporator. To make matters harder, its been raining here, and I had the defrost on this morning while i was driving around. So I don't know how I didn't expect this but the evaporator was all wet which as far as I can tell is normal- given that the refrigerant as it evaporates in the evaporator expands and cools the coil sub-ambient, which is why it gets moisture on it- which is why the AC box needs a drain (thankfully mine is functional). I shoved paper towels up in it and then removed them and then worked at it with a toothbrush to remove as much crap as possible, shoved the cabin air filter in the slot, and then put the door on. Tighened the screw to make the little foam gasket compress a bit, and then put the kick panel cover back on. Fingers crossed for no leaks because I can't stand water leaks. I'm going to pull the cover down in a few days because its got foam insulation on it and see if its damp. If it is, I'm going to pull the filter door off, and drown it in RTV, then put it back on there. Given that you only really need to change cabin air filters once every year or two, I'd be okay with having to scrape some off if it means I don't have moldy carpet. Prob also going to pull the AC drain tube off in the engine bay and run a pipe cleaner thru it a little bit just to see what happens. Will report back.

 

[derfman00]

Step one

Remove hex bolts. T-30 silver .T-15 black

Also remove the red clip (blue arrow)

Remove bracket.


[Placeholder for forgotten step]

Remove those



Stripped down steering wheel.


Now to run to AutoZone to borrow a steering wheel puller to remove my wife's steering wheel.

I'll take more pics of the reassembly. I suck at archiving how to articles - here is a YouTube video that touches base on some steps.

By the way. I'm switching this ebony wheel into a brown interior vehicle. I'm swapping the brown and black rear covers of the steering wheels to get as much brown as I can. I think the black wheel will look ok - if not, I'll recover the wheel in brown.

 

[PG01]

Okay fellas. I'm back, post cabin air filter retrofit install. After 218,000 miles, there was a metric crap ton of pine needles and dust in the HVAC box thing in front of the evaporator. To make matters harder, its been raining here, and I had the defrost on this morning while i was driving around. So I don't know how I didn't expect this but the evaporator was all wet which as far as I can tell is normal- given that the refrigerant as it evaporates in the evaporator expands and cools the coil sub-ambient, which is why it gets moisture on it- which is why the AC box needs a drain (thankfully mine is functional). I shoved paper towels up in it and then removed them and then worked at it with a toothbrush to remove as much crap as possible, shoved the cabin air filter in the slot, and then put the door on. Tighened the screw to make the little foam gasket compress a bit, and then put the kick panel cover back on. Fingers crossed for no leaks because I can't stand water leaks. I'm going to pull the cover down in a few days because its got foam insulation on it and see if its damp. If it is, I'm going to pull the filter door off, and drown it in RTV, then put it back on there. Given that you only really need to change cabin air filters once every year or two, I'd be okay with having to scrape some off if it means I don't have moldy carpet. Prob also going to pull the AC drain tube off in the engine bay and run a pipe cleaner thru it a little bit just to see what happens. Will report back.

Not gonna leak thru new door and going up from underneath passenger side behind front wheel will be easier to see/clean drain.

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/a-c-drain-location.93315/

 

[PG01]

Btw, its pretty cool that i just went out to google, searched and found pics that i posted and that thread on tyf....pretty cool for me anyway....

 

[PG01]

Hmmm. Have to agree with wife on this one. Looks ok up until the center console. From there to the right looks too long, like your welcome mat is hanging off the front of the porch.

Sorry...x2