What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Doubeleive

Wes
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You aren't draggin' a stop sign, are you? ;)
lol, no but that's about the only thing that would make any sense, something hanging in the drivetrain but there was barely a smidge of very fine metal in the rear diff that worked on about 2 weeks ago, nothing abnormal, shifts good, coast's along fine, no bad wheel bearings
 

BG1988

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Yeah... after some soul searching... You guys hit the points that were in my head like a roofer hitting nails... 6.2 would be nice... but I got what I ultimately have wanted for the last 12 years since the 07 came out... Like the Tahoe-burb front end better anyways... Hell I could just 6.2 swap this old gal if the AFM eats itself and have the mail hauling machine I want. I have done all fluids except the coolant, was going to do that probably a water pump and thermostat when it gets cooler out just as preventive.

You guys are some of the reasons I like this place so much... Feel at home!

Guess I need to work on ditching this superchips tune and go ahead and do the BB.... Thinking a 2/4 may come before the end of year.... Spend some money on fun for once...

Thanks for all those who chimed on with good voices of reason... I know she is getting broken in... Actually rides better than that mag ride for sure.....
if you want the AFM to last longer change the oil often like every 4000-5500 miles OCI you will get 300,000 miles
like the other hybrid owners get unless some unicorn component fails first




This photo shows a engine with 1995 suburban with 70k miles
the lifters are all ready failed the oil tubes are clogged with dirty oil according to the video it took 45 seconds to get very low flow from the rod tubes... so it's running "dry"

the idiot was revving the engine too and also said keep some water handy if it catches fire... LOL I called him out of that to do a follow up video still no response on that ( he did mention a fire extinguisher though) but WATER will cause a oil fire to flare up

engine fail.JPG


apparently this guy is using magnets on his oil filters and has been collecting a lot of metal shavings

if you watch the video you can HEAR a metal to metal screeching( :head3:metal frottage) :hahano: :rotflmao: sound from those lifters hurts my ears


 
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Bigkevschopshop

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if you want the AFM to last longer change the oil often like every 4000-5500 miles OCI you will get 300,000 miles
like the other hybrid owners get unless some unicorn component fails first



I keep mine about every 5k miles full dexos synthetic and its never full black... That dark brown in between coffee and tea...Last one went 6k but I have had some stuff going on and decided to lay on driveway and get it done. May drop some marvel mystery oil in the day before the next change happens to help some cleaning... But this thing keeps pretty oil for first 2k miles, then it browns slowly...

I agree though, The AFM should last with good oil changes but I just turn it off with program to hopefully put it farther out of reach of the Failure Fairy...
 

BG1988

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I keep mine about every 5k miles full dexos synthetic and its never full black... That dark brown in between coffee and tea...Last one went 6k but I have had some stuff going on and decided to lay on driveway and get it done. May drop some marvel mystery oil in the day before the next change happens to help some cleaning... But this thing keeps pretty oil for first 2k miles, then it browns slowly...

I agree though, The AFM should last with good oil changes but I just turn it off with program to hopefully put it farther out of reach of the Failure Fairy...
yeah mine does not start changing colors tell 4,000-4200 miles that is when i change it...

that is when i start seeing a few carbon flakes floating around..


i'd assuming these carbon flakes are from the intake valves

it's a very low density amount just a few here and there

so i guess it's a "good thing" they are being removed.. someone in the past must have used cheap gas at some point when the cost was very high..



oil is cheap, filters are cheap as there is plenty of rebates always available..(someitmes you can get the oil for free (5w40 is Free after rebate)(chevron is $0.50 cents a qt after rebate for 10w30 will need to water it down with two qt of 0w30) For me it's cheap insurance..


my dad has good luck changing it every 3k on his old nissan Sentra 210k miles out of it before he got a newer Toyota a 2013 it has 62k never had a CEL on the sentra or toyota so far
 

wjburken

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wouldn't that give me some kind of check engine code?

I am not sure to be honest as I am not sure which is the master.

Does the computer know when it wants to fire the spark and knows where the cam should be at that time and if it isn't there it throws a code, or does it wait for the cam to be in a certain position and then fire the spark which would not necessarily throw a code. I know if a cam position sensor doesn't sense a state change, it will throw a code because it thinks the cam isn't moving at all.

I do know that a bad VVT solenoid or valve can have an impact on fuel consumption.
 

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