What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[R3cord303]

I used a billet aluminum spacer kit for a 2" lift in the front. It was around $25 on Amazon. Installed it in about an hour one day while doing an oil change and tire rotation. Never a problem with AutoRide or Auto Level or anything. I never bothered to get an alignment and experienced no issues with steering or bad tire wear whatsoever.

Thank ya for the info. Did you need to use a spring compressor for the struts?

 

[gooffeyguy]

Yes to the first and am not sure about the second.

Couldn't you just use the Tech2 to reset the static ride height after installing the front spacers?

Or get 2" longer rods for the sensors?

 

[R3cord303]

Couldn't you just use the Tech2 to reset the static ride height after installing the front spacers?

Or get 2" longer rods for the sensors?

Man I need to get a Tech 2

 

[Rocket Man]

Tom all was not too bad. The north and east sides of Houston were hammered. Tomball is north west so it got spared decently this time. They may have lost their vehicle commuting though. Hope they are ok bud.

Damn Houston getting hit again.

 

[Doubeleive]

Couldn't you just use the Tech2 to reset the static ride height after installing the front spacers?

Or get 2" longer rods for the sensors?

I don't think you have to change anything because the spacer just forces the lower control arm to be lower, the upper control arm is where the sensor is attached. I think as far the computer knows nothing has changed.

 

[08grey]

nice!!!!!, im waiting for a silver one. been 4 weeks already

 

[iamdub]

Thank ya for the info. Did you need to use a spring compressor for the struts?

Nope. I don't remember exactly how I did it, but I know a large wrecking bar (prybar) was used to push the lower arm down so I could slip the spacer in. Pretty sure I loosened or unbolted the sway bar end link, too. Used a spud wrench to work the holes in alignment.

 

[iamdub]

I don't think you have to change anything because the spacer just forces the lower control arm to be lower, the upper control arm is where the sensor is attached. I think as far the computer knows nothing has changed.

The whole suspension is moved downward- lower control arms, spindles, upper control arms, etc. They all move in unison. I guess since that minimal 2" lift keeps the suspension still well within it's normal range of motion, the computer is fine with it. At the same time, I added 1" coil spacers to the rear, so at least the front and rear were changed somewhat proportionately, so the computer wouldn't see it as a sagging rear.

If I had a Tech2, I certainly would've reset the ride height positions and then again when I removed the lift.

 

[R3cord303]

The whole suspension is moved downward- lower control arms, spindles, upper control arms, etc. They all move in unison. I guess since that minimal 2" lift keeps the suspension still well within it's normal range of motion, the computer is fine with it. At the same time, I added 1" coil spacers to the rear, so at least the front and rear were changed somewhat proportionately, so the computer wouldn't see it as a sagging rear.

If I had a Tech2, I certainly would've reset the ride height positions and then again when I removed the lift.

A 2” front 1” rear would be perfect for me so I quit banging my head on the damn lift gate.

 

[swathdiver]

Couldn't you just use the Tech2 to reset the static ride height after installing the front spacers?

Or get 2" longer rods for the sensors?

Don't know, that module is not in my truck as she has the plain shocks and springs.