What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[iamdub]

Loosened the LCA bolts and unbolted the bottoms of the struts and moved them so they'd drop past the LCA mounts when I lowered the frame. I dropped it down about an inch lower than where the spindles should have dropped it to, then tightened the LCA bolts and bolted the struts back where they normally go. After a short, spirited drive to settle things, I found that this made no difference in my net drop of 1.5". This confirms that the McGaughy's people are dirty, cheating, rotten liars and I hope they get ********** by mutant zebra apes with scalpel-like talons and cactus dicks.

Then I adjusted the tie rods to straighten the steering wheel and get just a touch of toe-in. The steering now feels like it did before all of this was started.

I then moved to the rear to install DJM rear sway bar offset end links, DJM rear lower control arm relocators, Belltech SP rear shocks and Autoride spoofing resistors. My traction control and ABS lights came on as soon as I started it up. It's always something!

Out of the 5 resistors I have, I'm hoping I just have a bad one. The remaining 4 on the work bench all measure exactly 4.4 ohms. They're supposed to be 3.9 ohms, but I guess there's a .5 ohm tolerance? Is the suspension system that sensitive to a .5 ohm variance? Stupid me didn't test them before I soldered, heat-shrinked and secured them.

This shit's wearing me down.

 

[Geoffsfas10]

Which LED low beam did you order?

I ordered the H11-HLV6 set from SuperbrightLEDs. They are local to me ( try to support local places when I can ) and they are on clearance, plus 15% off with black friday etc. They will fit the K2 chassis without any modification to the core supports so thats good. IM half tempted to send em back though but I dont know how long til the retrofit happens and I need better lighting. Even the reviews have called out as good beam patterns in Tahoes so we will see. Hell if anything when Im done with them I will put them in my wife's equinox, which im sure will irritate her

 

[Rocket Man]

Loosened the LCA bolts and unbolted the bottoms of the struts and moved them so they'd drop past the LCA mounts when I lowered the frame. I dropped it down about an inch lower than where the spindles should have dropped it to, then tightened the LCA bolts and bolted the struts back where they normally go. After a short, spirited drive to settle things, I found that this made no difference in my net drop of 1.5". This confirms that the McGaughy's people are dirty, cheating, rotten liars and I hope they get ********** by mutant zebra apes with scalpel-like talons and cactus dicks.

Then I adjusted the tie rods to straighten the steering wheel and get just a touch of toe-in. The steering now feels like it did before all of this was started.

I then moved to the rear to install DJM rear sway bar offset end links, DJM rear lower control arm relocators, Belltech SP rear shocks and Autoride spoofing resistors. My traction control and ABS lights came on as soon as I started it up. It's always something!

Out of the 5 resistors I have, I'm hoping I just have a bad one. The remaining 4 on the work bench all measure exactly 4.4 ohms. They're supposed to be 3.9 ohms, but I guess there's a .5 ohm tolerance? Is the suspension system that sensitive to a .5 ohm variance? Stupid me didn't test them before I soldered, heat-shrinked and secured them.

This shit's wearing me down.

4.4 ohms should be fine. Are you sure you didn’t accidentally disconnect one of the harnesses? Seems to me I did that once, for some reason it seemed like it was easy to do. I don’t remember exactly, but I do remember wondering how the hell I did it.

 

[osidesurfer365]

Any word on this? Did you do any digging to find the source?

Couldn’t find anything. Going to possibly remove the headliner and take a better look when I have some time.


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[DaRosa218]

Took a trip to the snow, lost the front heater but will blow hot in the back. Maybe a blender door issue?

In the meantime, here's a few pics I snapped real quick.

 

[DaRosa218]

Took a trip to the snow, lost the front heater but will blow hot in the back. Maybe a blender door issue?

In the meantime, here's a few pics I snapped real quick.

View attachment 235284 View attachment 235285

 

[iamdub]

4.4 ohms should be fine. Are you sure you didn’t accidentally disconnect one of the harnesses? Seems to me I did that once, for some reason it seemed like it was easy to do. I don’t remember exactly, but I do remember wondering how the hell I did it.

I'm gonna check. But, I didn't drop the axle down or anything since I drove it last. I just messed with a bunch of brackets and bolts.

I don't know the relevance, but the original Autoride shocks I took off are 2.7ohms.

Could it be because I only did the rear 2 and the front are still connected to the stock struts? I'll use some scrap wire to connect them temporarily to test...

 

[Doubeleive]

I'm gonna check. But, I didn't drop the axle down or anything since I drove it last. I just messed with a bunch of brackets and bolts.

I don't know the relevance, but the original Autoride shocks I took off are 2.7ohms.

Could it be because I only did the rear 2 and the front are still connected to the stock struts? I'll use some scrap wire to connect them temporarily to test...

check the abs sensor harness it sits right on top of the frame where the rear shock top bolt goes in, it's easy to accidentally unclip the abs harness right there, there is one on each side same location.

 

[DaRosa218]

Worst part of the trip was I lost the damn heater up front during the trip. Rear blows nice and hot, front is ice cold. I'm praying it isn't a heater core and something simple like a blender door. I tried doing an actuator reset through my Foxwell tool but didn't change a thing.

 

[Bigkevschopshop]

Someone asked for a video of the SLP resonator delete Finally got around to getting on uploaded.. No revs or dumb shit, just cold start to idle..