What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[R3cord303]

Ordered a hidden console sub box, 10” JL sub and amp to go along with the new dash, Esky cluster, console, carpet and Katzkin leather. I’m on a roll.

Do you have a link to the hidden sub and box?

 

[Rocket Man]

Do you have a link to the hidden sub and box?

My phone won’t let me but you can go on EBay and search for Tahoe hidden console sub box. Seller is Rodneys Boxes.

 

[Mapper]

I added a little more back up lights, yeah, they are old school halogen.
https://www.leonardaccessories.com/product/towing-white-night-hitch-mount-back-up-lights

 

[iamdub]

Heat soak? I’m thinking about insulating the tube and the manifold after I have my charge air resonator delete done

I don't think it's heat soak. The PCM will retard timing using IATs as part of the algorithm, so the tube or intake being heat soaked shouldn't be a factor since the timing would be retarded for that right off the bat. Also, the air in the tube and IM is passing through too quickly and there's no real surface area inside the tract for it to pick up the heat. It only happens if I give it WOT or near WOT and at higher RPM, so it's load-based (which includes cylinder pressure). It's less frequent with 89 and I don't recall hearing it at all with 93. It's not much, just some clicks here and there that are responded to immediately.

Speaking of heat soak and air ducting, I'd say the Airaid would be less affected by this since it replaces the accordion tube and anything else that can cause turbulence. The air has more surfaces to stall at and get heated. It's the same principle why a finned tube heat exchanger is more efficient than just a zig-zagged tube.

 

[iamdub]

Well, what is certain Chris is that as soon as the computer detects a refueling event, it starts trying to determine a new alcohol content. If you've ever looked at your fuel trims right after leaving the gas station, you're eyeballs will go wide as they can hit -25 for a few miles while it's sampling. So this will certainly make an engine have a little more pep in its step.

Ah, the alcohol sensor is another factor I haven't considered. This makes more sense and might be the real reason for why I'm feeling such a difference.

 

[mattjones]

So I had a bit of a scare today. Recently my tahoe has been producing a squeak/squeal at low speeds. First thought was that it could be brakes but the pads looked fine when I checked. Then I thought it might have been a u-joint so I dropped the driveshaft yesterday to check but they were fine. Listened a little more closely and it sounded like the squeal was coming from the front end side so I took a closer look at the wheels/brakes and hoped it wasn't a hub.

When I checked the front driver side wheel, I noticed a clean line in the brake dust going all the way around the inside of the rim. Upon further inspection, my caliper was completely missing one bolt.



That missing bolt allowed the caliper on this wheel to move out of place a little bit and it must have actually been rubbing against the inside of the rim as I drove



I was able to run up to Autozone and pick up new bolts for under 15 bucks. This pic has the new bolt installed and you can see where the two corners of the caliper had been rubbing:




Based on when the squeaking started I've been driving with the caliper like this for at least a week or two trying to figure it out. I'd never seen one of these bolts just fall off before. Made sure the new one was as tight as it goes before I put the wheel back on.

 

[wjburken]

So I had a bit of a scare today. Recently my tahoe has been producing a squeak/squeal at low speeds. First thought was that it could be brakes but the pads looked fine when I checked. Then I thought it might have been a u-joint so I dropped the driveshaft yesterday to check but they were fine. Listened a little more closely and it sounded like the squeal was coming from the front end side so I took a closer look at the wheels/brakes and hoped it wasn't a hub.

When I checked the front driver side wheel, I noticed a clean line in the brake dust going all the way around the inside of the rim. Upon further inspection, my caliper was completely missing one bolt.



That missing bolt allowed the caliper on this wheel to move out of place a little bit and it must have actually been rubbing against the inside of the rim as I drove



I was able to run up to Autozone and pick up new bolts for under 15 bucks. This pic has the new bolt installed and you can see where the two corners of the caliper had been rubbing:




Based on when the squeaking started I've been driving with the caliper like this for at least a week or two trying to figure it out. I'd never seen one of these bolts just fall off before. Made sure the new one was as tight as it goes before I put the wheel back on.

That’s crazy! Never heard of that happening.

Funny thing is a co-worker of mine replaced a wheel bearing and a caliper on his 2013 F-350 last weekend and mentioned that he was surprised to see the caliper bolts had loc-tite on them. He said, “those bolts never come loose.” I had to agree with him.

I will have to share this with him tomorrow.

 

[Rocket Man]

It’s happened to people, in fact I’ve seen one caliper cut completely through a wheel.

 

[mattjones]

That’s crazy! Never heard of that happening.

Funny thing is a co-worker of mine replaced a wheel bearing and a caliper on his 2013 F-350 last weekend and mentioned that he was surprised to see the caliper bolts had loc-tite on them. He said, “those bolts never come loose.” I had to agree with him.

I will have to share this with him tomorrow.

I actually feel lucky that it was causing the metal on metal squeal because otherwise I probably never would have noticed it

 

[swathdiver]

It’s happened to people, in fact I’ve seen one caliper cut completely through a wheel.

That was about two or three years ago on here if I remember right. Sliced the wheel into pieces and then the tire came apart, what a mess.