What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[89Suburban]

 

[Tonyrodz]

I feel small posting this after that horrible tornado story above. Great job and much respect to you.

I just wanted to share my repairs from today.

I had an engine light on the dash throwing a code P0449. Did the usual searches and homework and replaced the vapor canister.


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https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00RW3A04E?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title



IMHO this is the original and has quite a bit of miles on it.



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After the install codes are clear and no engine light.



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Also replaced the belts.





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Is that a crack in the housing?

 

[89Suburban]

Is that a crack in the housing?

Yeah looks like it.

 

[HiHoeSilver]

View attachment 240649

I have this, too. Hopefully mine goes like yours!

 

[avalonandl]

Air shocks arrived from Rock Auto. Will have them installed this March.

 

[Doubeleive]

View attachment 240649

hopefully it stays gone, takes 2-3 days sometimes for it to set has to cycle thru cold/hot, certainly looks like it was the issue.
your getting up there in the miles I had on my 00

 

[89Suburban]

hopefully it stays gone, takes 2-3 days sometimes for it to set has to cycle thru cold/hot, certainly looks like it was the issue.
your getting up there in the miles I had on my 00

Laying on your back the toughest parts IMO were, beginning with the hardest: (Unless you have access to a lift then it’s cakewalk)

Disconnecting the old line off the charcoal canister. It’s tight up there next to the fuel tank and axle pinion. I could not get the clip to release so I carefully used a pick tool and flathead screwdriver to break it apart until it slid off. I coated the seal on the new one with sill glyde and it snapped into place very nicely. Even getting the new one into place and snapped on was a bear just because it’s tight area and dark and trying to use a work light to see.

Getting to the head of the bolt to change the mounting bracket on the top side of the frame. It’s 13mm and I used a ratchet wrench and sprayed some WD-40 on the threads.

Getting the new zip ties into the vent tube was a ***** too. Need a creeper with a back support so you can recline up. Trying to sit half way up and reach up was murder on the back. Matter of fact if I were to do it again I’d sit outside the fender on a bucket and just reach up in there and do it blind. Also want to make sure the filter end which is bigger on the replacement part is snug so it doesn’t rattle around in the body panel.

There is some rust and scale and dirt debris back there too so I used ear plugs and safety glasses though I still got some in my mouth and nose holes and shoes.

List of tools I used:

13MM ratchet wrench
WD-40
Sill-Glyde
Various type pick tools
Long shank flathead screw driver
Work light
Side cutters for cutting the old nylon ties and to cut the old hose off the valve to make it easier to maneuver things out of there.

Hope this helps.


I also found a loose damned diff cover bolt leaking and had to snug that up!!!! WTF?! Lots of that going on around here lately it seems!

 

[Doubeleive]

Laying on your back the toughest parts IMO were, beginning with the hardest: (Unless you have access to a lift then it’s cakewalk)

Disconnecting the old line off the charcoal canister. It’s tight up there next to the fuel tank and axle pinion. I could not get the clip to release so I carefully used a pick tool and flathead screwdriver to break it apart until it slid off. I coated the seal on the new one with sill glyde and it snapped into place very nicely. Even getting the new one into place and snapped on was a bear just because it’s tight area and dark and trying to use a work light to see.

Getting to the head of the bolt to change the mounting bracket on the top side of the frame. It’s 13mm and I used a ratchet wrench and sprayed some WD-40 on the threads.

Getting the new zip ties into the vent tube was a ***** too. Need a creeper with a back support so you can recline up. Trying to sit half way up and reach up was murder on the back. Matter of fact if I were to do it again I’d sit outside the fender on a bucket and just reach up in there and do it blind. Also want to make sure the filter end which is bigger on the replacement part is snug so it doesn’t rattle around in the body panel.

There is some rust and scale and dirt debris back there too so I used ear plugs and safety glasses though I still got some in my mouth and nose holes and shoes.

List of tools I used:

13MM ratchet wrench
WD-40
Sill-Glyde
Various type pick tools
Long shank flathead screw driver
Work light
Side cutters for cutting the old nylon ties and to cut the old hose off the valve to make it easier to maneuver things out of there.

Hope this helps.


I also found a loose damned diff cover bolt leaking and had to snug that up!!!! WTF?! Lots of that going on around here lately it seems!

When I did mine I just disconnected the filler tube from the body and pulled it down, attached the new one and pushed it back up and clipped it back on, I think it has one bolt and one plastic clip makes it super easy.

 

[trailblazer]

I just got done re-tightening the rear shock bolts. I have done this four times now and apparently I did a crappy job of torquing the top bolts. The rattle is finally gone it it has been driving me insane for weeks. So smoooooooooooth again MY GAWD that was driving me crazy.

 

[gooffeyguy]

Sill-Glyde? Anything like Astroglide? LoL

On that note, friends have given me a hard time when they see that I keep a tube of KY in my tool chest. I use it on O-rings, especially fuel injectors. It help lubricate when installing them and is water based and not oil based that will eventually dry them out and cause them to crack

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18