What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Tonyrodz]

While getting food, my check engine light came on and it said service stability track. Got home, popped the hood and the air filter from my intake came off. Scanned the code and it was p106
Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) Barometric Pressure Sensor Electric Circuit Output Range and Performance Problem.

Put the air filter back on, cleared the code, ran it for about a minute, no check engine light. Hope that was the issue.

For stability? Weird.

 

[George B]

Oil change because it wasn’t done before I bought it.

lots of lash in the front diff pinion. Pattern doesn’t look good. At least not to my untrained eye.

 

[Doubeleive]

For stability? Weird.

ya the maf sensor data controls a bunch of stuff including how the transmission shifts, so if unmetered air is getting sucked in it can cause all kinds of problems, the newer trucks are even more picky on my 2018 if I even take a plastic sleeve out of the cai it gives me a lean code bank 2 and makes it shift weird.

 

[Peter Tremonti]

I replaced all of the peanut bulbs in the headlights and tail lights (168 bulbs I think). I noticed the driver's side brake light wasn't working. Decided to check the bulbs and found out all 3 bulbs on the driver's side were dimmer than the right. Pulled the bulbs to check them and found after removing the top bulb, all the running lights died... Found a bad repair on the body side of the harness and fixed it. Put the tail light in before testing (because that's how you fix things right?) Bulbs were still dim. It looks like somebody bypassed the connector ground wire all together previously and they didn't fix it after fixing it poorly on the body side of the harness (it pulled out and didn't have any heatshrink either). Anyways... wiring is fixed and all the bulbs are working again.

I glued in the mounting screws in the license plate bulb holder panel since they were all spun out of the housing and it was rattling like crazy. Also replaced the glass release button since it had already fallen apart.

Changed the oil with some Rotella and a WIX filter to see the condition of the engine. Not an abnormal amount of metal or anything.

Disassembled the driver's window switch to see if the contacts are dirty like some of the truck switches I've seen in youtube videos. They were not and my driver's window switch still doesn't work at the moment. I'm assuming the switch anyways. The motor works when direct powered. All of the other windows work with the driver's door switch... Still figuring out that one.

Installed a new rear wiper arm and cleaned off the motor splines after prying off the corroded old wiper lug.

I stapled the air box back together and knocked the dust off the old filter since I don't have a new one yet.

 

[Rocket Man]

I replaced all of the peanut bulbs in the headlights and tail lights (168 bulbs I think). I noticed the driver's side brake light wasn't working. Decided to check the bulbs and found out all 3 bulbs on the driver's side were dimmer than the right. Pulled the bulbs to check them and found after removing the top bulb, all the running lights died... Found a bad repair on the body side of the harness and fixed it. Put the tail light in before testing (because that's how you fix things right?) Bulbs were still dim. It looks like somebody bypassed the connector ground wire all together previously and they didn't fix it after fixing it poorly on the body side of the harness (it pulled out and didn't have any heatshrink either). Anyways... wiring is fixed and all the bulbs are working again.

I glued in the mounting screws in the license plate bulb holder panel since they were all spun out of the housing and it was rattling like crazy. Also replaced the glass release button since it had already fallen apart.

Changed the oil with some Rotella and a WIX filter to see the condition of the engine. Not an abnormal amount of metal or anything.

Disassembled the driver's window switch to see if the contacts are dirty like some of the truck switches I've seen in youtube videos. They were not and my driver's window switch still doesn't work at the moment. I'm assuming the switch anyways. The motor works when direct powered. All of the other windows work with the driver's door switch... Still figuring out that one.

Installed a new rear wiper arm and cleaned off the motor splines after prying off the corroded old wiper lug.

I stapled the air box back together and knocked the dust off the old filter since I don't have a new one yet.

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Got lots of stuff done then. Nice.

 

[trailblazer]

Installed a Rockville SS8P poweredsub today. Then drained the 8300 miles Amsoil.

 

[Kee Fuller]

I replaced all of the peanut bulbs in the headlights and tail lights (168 bulbs I think). I noticed the driver's side brake light wasn't working. Decided to check the bulbs and found out all 3 bulbs on the driver's side were dimmer than the right. Pulled the bulbs to check them and found after removing the top bulb, all the running lights died... Found a bad repair on the body side of the harness and fixed it. Put the tail light in before testing (because that's how you fix things right?) Bulbs were still dim. It looks like somebody bypassed the connector ground wire all together previously and they didn't fix it after fixing it poorly on the body side of the harness (it pulled out and didn't have any heatshrink either). Anyways... wiring is fixed and all the bulbs are working again.

I glued in the mounting screws in the license plate bulb holder panel since they were all spun out of the housing and it was rattling like crazy. Also replaced the glass release button since it had already fallen apart.

Changed the oil with some Rotella and a WIX filter to see the condition of the engine. Not an abnormal amount of metal or anything.

Disassembled the driver's window switch to see if the contacts are dirty like some of the truck switches I've seen in youtube videos. They were not and my driver's window switch still doesn't work at the moment. I'm assuming the switch anyways. The motor works when direct powered. All of the other windows work with the driver's door switch... Still figuring out that one.

Installed a new rear wiper arm and cleaned off the motor splines after prying off the corroded old wiper lug.

I stapled the air box back together and knocked the dust off the old filter since I don't have a new one yet.

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I got a driver's master switch if ya need one for sale

 

[Doubeleive]

I replaced all of the peanut bulbs in the headlights and tail lights (168 bulbs I think). I noticed the driver's side brake light wasn't working. Decided to check the bulbs and found out all 3 bulbs on the driver's side were dimmer than the right. Pulled the bulbs to check them and found after removing the top bulb, all the running lights died... Found a bad repair on the body side of the harness and fixed it. Put the tail light in before testing (because that's how you fix things right?) Bulbs were still dim. It looks like somebody bypassed the connector ground wire all together previously and they didn't fix it after fixing it poorly on the body side of the harness (it pulled out and didn't have any heatshrink either). Anyways... wiring is fixed and all the bulbs are working again.

I glued in the mounting screws in the license plate bulb holder panel since they were all spun out of the housing and it was rattling like crazy. Also replaced the glass release button since it had already fallen apart.

Changed the oil with some Rotella and a WIX filter to see the condition of the engine. Not an abnormal amount of metal or anything.

Disassembled the driver's window switch to see if the contacts are dirty like some of the truck switches I've seen in youtube videos. They were not and my driver's window switch still doesn't work at the moment. I'm assuming the switch anyways. The motor works when direct powered. All of the other windows work with the driver's door switch... Still figuring out that one.

Installed a new rear wiper arm and cleaned off the motor splines after prying off the corroded old wiper lug.

I stapled the air box back together and knocked the dust off the old filter since I don't have a new one yet.

View attachment 247931 View attachment 247932 View attachment 247933 View attachment 247934 View attachment 247935

looks like someone did a repair on the rear wiper washer fluid line also, unless that is something else

 

[LRob]

swapped my 22s for the new machined face 20. Will upload some pics tomorrow.

 

[Peter Tremonti]

looks like someone did a repair on the rear wiper washer fluid line also, unless that is something else

The first picture is of the bad tail light wiring if that's the one you're wondering about.