What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[R3cord303]

Tahoe on the trailer. My brother was excited to see something that big get towed. Step dads ecoboost put in work

 

[alpha_omega]

There is WAY too much work currently underway for me to list right now (some of it finished, some of it is just waiting to be installed once other mods/repairs are done) *but I do have photos, so their is proof...that comment is for “Rocket-Man” and the “Diver”.

Ok, so why the hell am I here? I am curious as to how your parking brake cable is routed after it leaves the firewall and is headed downwards. I’ve seen them routed more ways than one and I’m still curious as to which is the correct path of travel, and should it be routed over/under/through any parts of the frame for any specific reasons (safety, length, to prevent damage from fraying...etc).
I’ll load some photos of mine when I get back out there, but I’ll wait if you guys think it’s worth starting a new thread specifically for this discussion. If so, anyone can feel free to open one, just give me a heads up so we aren’t double tapping.

 

[swathdiver]

I just got a P0741 code- TCC stuck off.

not going into lockup. Is this something that flipping the TCC valve around can fix? I know thats a trick with 4L60e trans.

edit: may have just lost the trans. Shit

View attachment 262312

That's not catastrophic. You just might need to rebuild your solenoids and put some clean fluid in there, not a total rebuild or even a new converter. Course, a trans shop is going to go for the whole enchilada, always do.

 

[Doubeleive]

There is WAY too much work currently underway for me to list right now (some of it finished, some of it is just waiting to be installed once other mods/repairs are done) *but I do have photos, so their is proof...that comment is for “Rocket-Man” and the “Diver”.

Ok, so why the hell am I here? I am curious as to how your parking brake cable is routed after it leaves the firewall and is headed downwards. I’ve seen them routed more ways than one and I’m still curious as to which is the correct path of travel, and should it be routed over/under/through any parts of the frame for any specific reasons (safety, length, to prevent damage from fraying...etc).
I’ll load some photos of mine when I get back out there, but I’ll wait if you guys think it’s worth starting a new thread specifically for this discussion. If so, anyone can feel free to open one, just give me a heads up so we aren’t double tapping.

that might depend on the year/model so be sure to put that info up with your pics, there were changes made in 2010 for sure, there were changes to the parking brake release mechanism that likely affect how it is routed as well.

 

[R3cord303]

That's not catastrophic. You just might need to rebuild your solenoids and put some clean fluid in there, not a total rebuild or even a new converter. Course, a trans shop is going to go for the whole enchilada, always do.

Naw what happened this morning was no lockup, thats why it threw the code. What happened when i did the edit was it quit going into gear and slipped a bit. I checked fluid level, it was low. Then i added a quart and a half and it started driving again, but it was still trying to slip i think. Trailered it to mechanic, they’re going to do a service. Drop the pan, change the filter, refill. If it drives good after that, great. If not, oh well. Factory reman it is. I’ll have them take the reman trans, and do a vette servo on it. Thats a great upgrade to do. Takes 30 min.

i will see if i can keep the old one minus a core charge. Id love to rebuild and build the old one to actually take some power. Maybe put it in the S10 when it gets its LS swap. I think a 2.3L whipple would be just about perfect in that thing.

 

[cmatt]

School me on the factory heated steering wheel. Are there instances where you press the button and it won’t come on?

I believe mine has stayed on (and heated up) twice (after pressing button). Most of the time the button light will illuminate for a few seconds and turn off. Other times nothing.


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[PG01]

School me on the factory heated steering wheel. Are there instances where you press the button and it won’t come on?

I believe mine has stayed on (and heated up) twice (after pressing button). Most of the time the button light will illuminate for a few seconds and turn off. Other times nothing.


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I’ve read of the steering wheel heating element going bad matt. Not sure on nnbs but my 19 stays on until I turn it off.

I don’t believe there is a ‘timer’ like the rear defrost. But I may be wrong.

 

[the_tool_man]

School me on the factory heated steering wheel. Are there instances where you press the button and it won’t come on?

I believe mine has stayed on (and heated up) twice (after pressing button). Most of the time the button light will illuminate for a few seconds and turn off. Other times nothing.


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Mine (2012 Denali) stays on until I turn it off with a second press of the button, or I turn off the ignition. I've kept it on for half an hour or more, and it never automatically cut off. And it doesn't automatically come on, either.

 

[cmatt]

And so it begins...




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[cmatt]

I’ve read of the steering wheel heating element going bad matt. Not sure on nnbs but my 19 stays on until I turn it off.

I don’t believe there is a ‘timer’ like the rear defrost. But I may be wrong.

Mine (2012 Denali) stays on until I turn it off with a second press of the button, or I turn off the ignition. I've kept it on for half an hour or more, and it never automatically cut off. And it doesn't automatically come on, either.

Thank you both. My 2015 stayed on as well. I wasn't sure if the GMT900 operated differently. I may pull the airbag and check the wiring. Perhaps the switch is bad.

Since there's no inventory of GMT900 heated wheels, it will certainly make me look harder at retrofitting the 2015-2017 heated wheel. Need to make sure the 15-17 airbag won't have any issues communicated with a GMT900 airbag module.