What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Doubeleive

Wes
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I have 2 door seals to put on and a drivers seat cushion and seat cover to put on and it goes into the transmission shop Monday for a upgrade/repair with a new billet torque converter and some work to the valve body, and whatever they recommend once they dig into it so I will probably do the door seals and seat cover after it comes back from the shop. Being lazy and working on a new computer build I have both windows 10 and windows 7 booting up in 30 seconds. The trucks been mostly just sitting parked I drove it to the gas station and back last night for some ice cream.
 

the_tool_man

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Let's get back on track.

After watching many YouTube videos on it, I was reconsidering my ability/time to swap my H3 motor mounts into the Denali. I called around to some local shops just to see what they'd charge. I found out most won't even swap in "non-original" parts, or any parts they don't supply (and mark up). Best option so far is over $900 including parts, which would net something like $700ish labor. I was expecting more like $400ish labor.

The most straightforward methods require partial or complete removal of the exhaust manifold heat shields. I know I have a broken manifold bolt. This seems like the best opportunity to proactively upgrade the bolts to ARP. I think this is escalating quickly.
 

Just Fishing

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My Hoe runs great.
Valve train sounds great (passenger side needed some run/break-in time for it to sound like the driver side :rolleyes: )
Oil pressure is also great now.
Topped off the trans fluid from when i had the radiator out, still shifting great.
Ordered a P08 to celebrate!

Life is good. :cool:
 
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Just Fishing

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Let's get back on track.

After watching many YouTube videos on it, I was reconsidering my ability/time to swap my H3 motor mounts into the Denali. I called around to some local shops just to see what they'd charge. I found out most won't even swap in "non-original" parts, or any parts they don't supply (and mark up). Best option so far is over $900 including parts, which would net something like $700ish labor. I was expecting more like $400ish labor.

The most straightforward methods require partial or complete removal of the exhaust manifold heat shields. I know I have a broken manifold bolt. This seems like the best opportunity to proactively upgrade the bolts to ARP. I think this is escalating quickly.


Manifold to head bolt broken? :(
 

Bigkevschopshop

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Let's get back on track.

After watching many YouTube videos on it, I was reconsidering my ability/time to swap my H3 motor mounts into the Denali. I called around to some local shops just to see what they'd charge. I found out most won't even swap in "non-original" parts, or any parts they don't supply (and mark up). Best option so far is over $900 including parts, which would net something like $700ish labor. I was expecting more like $400ish labor.

The most straightforward methods require partial or complete removal of the exhaust manifold heat shields. I know I have a broken manifold bolt. This seems like the best opportunity to proactively upgrade the bolts to ARP. I think this is escalating quickly.

We did it with a floor jack and block of wood without removing the exhaust on my old burb.
You have to tear up the heat shield on the one your wishing to remove and then work your way in with the new one. Its not terrible just awkward for sure.
 

the_tool_man

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We did it with a floor jack and block of wood without removing the exhaust on my old burb.
You have to tear up the heat shield on the one your wishing to remove and then work your way in with the new one. Its not terrible just awkward for sure.

Exhaust doesn't need removal to swap mounts. But I'll be shoulder-deep in that area, especially the passenger side (see below). There are a dozen methods if you poke around on YT. My favorite methods I've seen:

Driver side: Steering shaft comes out and exhaust heat shield loosened. Mount can be snaked out and replaced.

Passenger side: Starter, oil dip stick tube, fender liner and exhaust heat shield come out completely.

Upgrading the manifold bolts now, at 120k miles, seems like a good idea, before more break. All it adds to the driver side work is pulling the fender liner for better access. And if I pull the passenger side manifold off, I may not have to remove the starter to swap the mount, so there's that.

Or maybe it's too late, some of the bolts are nearly broken in the head, and I'm about to bite off more than I can chew. It's probably that, lol. "Nine hundred bucks, you say?...hmm".
 
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