What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Bill 1960

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I've been listening to the sound of a dry bearing when the A/C compressor is OFF the last few days. It goes quiet when the compressor clutch engages. Began on cold starts only but it's ramping up to be slight but always there now.

So I'm asking myself what's the chances it's:

1. the old dried out belt I haven't changed yet. $
2. a sympathetic squeak from a failing idler. $$
3. the compressor clutch. $$$

I'm placing my bets on door number 3.
 

Sam Harris

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I've been listening to the sound of a dry bearing when the A/C compressor is OFF the last few days. It goes quiet when the compressor clutch engages. Began on cold starts only but it's ramping up to be slight but always there now.

So I'm asking myself what's the chances it's:

1. the old dried out belt I haven't changed yet. $
2. a sympathetic squeak from a failing idler. $$
3. the compressor clutch. $$$

I'm placing my bets on door number 3.
Hopefully number one!
 

08z71bgm

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You definitely don’t need to remove the exhaust manifold. I did everything from the top side as well. Except of course placing the floor jack. Just make sure you have patience and beer.


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I’ll have patience to do it soon as my other car is almost 100% then I can start working on that little by little and not worry about having two cars down.
 

08z71bgm

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We used a tow strap and hooked it around the front accessory bracket. Come to think of it, we did have to remove the intake pipe to do that. So add that to the removal list.

I didn't go beneath at all, except to see if we could gain easier access to the mount bolts to the block. With the extensions I had, I didn't see any way to get to them from below. FWIW, I also considered going through the wheel well with the fender liner removed. But there's a bunch of stuff attached to that in the engine bay. So it all looked like too much trouble, given that I had my tall, long-armed friend available. Videos I watched on YT confirmed going in from above is easiest.

If you do the PS mount (which I haven't done yet), it's a different story. It looks like the easiest method is to pull the fender liner and the starter, and snake everything in through that way. And I'll add, resist the temptation to do both mounts at the same time. One thing that really makes room is to leave the opposite side connected so you can rock the engine away from the mount being replaced without running out of room at the firewall. You get about double the space that way. Otherwise, from what I've seen, you have to disassemble the mount in place and pull it out in pieces. There are videos that recommend this. But it looks a lot harder to me, and shouldn't be necessary.
Thanks. Yeah I’m not changing the right side. Only the left.
 

Rocket Man

Mark
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I've been listening to the sound of a dry bearing when the A/C compressor is OFF the last few days. It goes quiet when the compressor clutch engages. Began on cold starts only but it's ramping up to be slight but always there now.

So I'm asking myself what's the chances it's:

1. the old dried out belt I haven't changed yet. $
2. a sympathetic squeak from a failing idler. $$
3. the compressor clutch. $$$

I'm placing my bets on door number 3.
It’s usually the most expensive.
 

Rocket Man

Mark
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