What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[07Burb]

I was just wondering because that bar kind of looks like the one for silverado's but would have came with extra hardware, the one in my photo above (and on my truck) seems to be shorter in the center

Yeah mine didn’t come with any extra hardware. Just the brackets, bushings and bar. What are the extra holes even for? Is it supposed to fit a few different vehicles? I’m glad mine only has one. I’d find a way to screw something up if I had three holes to guess at lol

 

[Tonyrodz]

Yeah mine didn’t come with any extra hardware. Just the brackets, bushings and bar. What are the extra holes even for? Is it supposed to fit a few different vehicles? I’m glad mine only has one. I’d find a way to screw something up if I had three holes to guess at lol

With the extra holes you can firm up the handling more. I have mine in the middle. Supposedly firmer handling. More holes=extra fun! Hehe

 

[Bill 1960]

Yeah mine didn’t come with any extra hardware. Just the brackets, bushings and bar. What are the extra holes even for? Is it supposed to fit a few different vehicles? I’m glad mine only has one. I’d find a way to screw something up if I had three holes to guess at lol

The multiple holes allow for tuning of the effective stiffness of the stabilizer, by lengthening or shortening the lever arm. I’m no race car tuner -and these certainly aren’t race vehicles- but my understanding is ideally the front and rear anti-roll bars should be matched for neutral cornering. Stiffer on the front tends to understeer while stiffer in the rear tends to oversteer. Or so I recall.

I would love to see a Suburban doing four wheel drifts on a track. That would be something to see!

 

[Tonyrodz]

The multiple holes allow for tuning of the effective stiffness of the stabilizer, by lengthening or shortening the lever arm. I’m no race car tuner -and these certainly aren’t race vehicles- but my understanding is ideally the front and rear anti-roll bars should be matched for neutral cornering. Stiffer on the front tends to understeer while stiffer in the rear tends to oversteer. Or so I recall.

I would love to see a Suburban doing four wheel drifts on a track. That would be something to see!

How about an Esky limo?

 

[Doubeleive]

The multiple holes allow for tuning of the effective stiffness of the stabilizer, by lengthening or shortening the lever arm. I’m no race car tuner -and these certainly aren’t race vehicles- but my understanding is ideally the front and rear anti-roll bars should be matched for neutral cornering. Stiffer on the front tends to understeer while stiffer in the rear tends to oversteer. Or so I recall.

I would love to see a Suburban doing four wheel drifts on a track. That would be something to see!

with some ****** slick tires it probably could, the weight makes it hard

 

[Bill 1960]

 

[wsteele]

Outside the placebo effect, you aren't going to feel much change in roll stiffness on that short of an adjustment, full stiff to full soft. Changing bars (larger diameter) might get you to a point where you can feel the difference, but a few inches of lever arm difference on the same bar, isn't going to do it.

 

[Bill 1960]

Outside the placebo effect, you aren't going to feel much change in roll stiffness on that short of an adjustment, full stiff to full soft. Changing bars (larger diameter) might get you to a point where you can feel the difference, but a few inches of lever arm difference on the same bar, isn't going to do it.

Sorry to disagree, but I have personally done that change albeit on a much heavier chassis. Ford Motorhome actually. So many RV owners do it there’s even an acronym. CHF or the ”Cheap Handling Fix”. I will certainly agree there’s a wee difference between the vehicles.
In that case it was noticeable to my passengers as well.

On the other hand, some claim handling benefits using poly bushings rather than rubber; seems like a minor difference in dimensional compression to me, but I have no experience.

I suppose it all depends on how sensitive an individual driver is to vehicle dynamics.

 

[wsteele]

Sorry to disagree, but I have personally done that change albeit on a much heavier chassis. Ford Motorhome actually. So many RV owners do it there’s even an acronym. CHF or the ”Cheap Handling Fix”. I will certainly agree there’s a wee difference between the vehicles.
In that case it was noticeable to my passengers as well.

On the other hand, some claim handling benefits using poly bushings rather than rubber; seems like a minor difference in dimensional compression to me, but I have no experience.

I suppose it all depends on how sensitive an individual driver is to vehicle dynamics.

Yes, it would certainly be a sensitivity thing.

Actually maybe I could buy the notion that moving the pickup point inboard a few inches on an otherwise stiff enough bar making a difference in perceived body roll, especially on very tall vehicles.

As far as that kind of change having an impact on understeer or oversteer and corner handling in general, a few inches on the same bar? Not even close.

On a few of my early race cars we had bars that could be adjusted as much as 18”. The difference between full hard and full soft on one end was always a tweak, never anything that was going to change an under or over steering car back to neutral.

So do I think the few inches of adjustment on the bar in question would make a noticeable difference in perceived roll stiffness on one of these trucks. I am afraid it would stay in the placebo category for my opinion. I guarantee you it would not change a lap time on any road course I have ever driven on.

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

Got the new water pump and rad hoses on, fabbed up a surge tank restrictor for the Cold Case and new upstream oxygen sensors.
Just need to double check tire pressures and give it a wash and I should be ready for my trip tomorrow. Hopefully I don't get any other surprises at least until I get back. Haha