What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[1BADI5]

The Motive isn’t vacuum, it’s the opposite, a pressure bleeder. It doesn’t suck (literally) it blows. It’s a great tool.

Yes, magnetic plug socket FTW. I hate those other ones.

I love my Motive bleeder.......as a tech I prefer to blow it out then suck it out.

 

[CaptainAmerica1]

Russell

 

[gooffeyguy]

Damnit, I just got a new android phone and lost my Torque App layout. I know I had it backed up somewhere, but can't find it.

 

[1BADI5]

Well I got the rear Hotchkis bar in this morning before the heat......1.5 hours to fit and fabricate the rear end links.

The to knock out the front bar........should be 30 minutes or less on ramps

 

[1BADI5]

Well done with the front.....bit drank to much in the process to test drive lol......hmmm, Jack and coke WTW

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

but drank to much in the process to test drive lol

Lol hate when that happens!

 

[1BADI5]

Well I cooled off and took'er for a rip.

It's 90+* right now and ripped off a 14sec 1/4 mile......spinning through first. Trans tune still needs some serious work. With this build, converter and gears I should be ripping off a 4.8-5.0 sec 0-60. Its falling on its face til I hit 4500 rpm from a dig or even when I bring it up to 2800 rpm on the converter

 

[89Suburban]

Well done with the front.....bit drank to much in the process to test drive lol......hmmm, Jack and coke WTW

Looks great man!

 

[gooffeyguy]

Well I cooled off and took'er for a rip.

It's 90+* right now and ripped off a 14sec 1/4 mile......spinning through first. Trans tune still needs some serious work. With this build, converter and gears I should be ripping off a 4.8-5.0 sec 0-60. Its falling on its face til I hit 4500 rpm from a dig or even when I bring it up to 2800 rpm on the converter

So how accurate is whatever device you're using as a performance meter? Have you ran it at a track with this meter at the same time to compare accuracy?

I used to have a GtechPro, the first model that looked like a radar detector, back in the mid-late 90s (before smartphones and gps), and it was pretty accurate as long as you had the correct vehicle weight entered. It was about 3 tenths and 5 mph off in the 1/4 pretty constantly.

 

[89Suburban]

Yesterday I pulled the driver's armrest switchgear because the front passenger window "up" switch was intermittent then inoperative. I didn't use tootpaste because every one of my contacts looked a lot better than the ones in the video. I just swabbed them down with alcohol and all is good.

I am doing this right now. I was freaking out because I thought I lost a white plunger. Now I see in your video yours is missing as well. The is the rocker switch for the rear window locks and only moves to one side so that makes sends now. PHEW!!!

My plunger shafts are all also filthy. Scrubbing those up as well. I used a lint free rag dipped in warm soapy water for these.

All my brass contacts look surprisingly clean as a whistle. Except for the last pair at the rear which are for the door locks, which IS the one giving me issues. Curious as to why it's just those two. Because they are at the rear of the switch? Higher current draw? Or because they are hardly ever used? Strange but interesting to learn. I DO notice just a little bit of crud build up on the top side of the white rubber brass contact holder. I am wondering because if this is the rear of the switch and any rain water got in there over the years causing this issue. That is my hunch. Scrubbed that as well with the warm water rag and light blow gun action.