What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Rocket Man]

Okay so I am hoping this is the source of the wet floor issue.

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Agree with Wes. Water doesn't travel uphill unless it has a siphon effect. There's no way enough would splash through there to see.

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

I hope those are OEM T's. The aftermarket ones are known to fail fairly quickly, especially Dormans.

RockAuto didn't have oe for those. Just grab some off of eBay coming from Arizona. It was about 10 bucks cheaper than getting them from Findlay on Amazon.

 

[iamdub]

Corn has been hovering around 60-65% here for a while... Filled up this morning, apparently it was only 25%ish...wtf

Drove all the way to work like that and then back home and literally backing into my parking spot check engine light came on, lean code.
I know it's hot, but I thought it seemed a little more sluggish than usual.
Still need to dig in there and figure out why the driver side is always leaner than the passenger side.

Have you swapped the upstream sensors around to see if the problem follows?

 

[iamdub]

It's time I run my trans cooler lines correctly using tubing instead of rubber. I know how to bend and make flares on lines, but what I don't know is what metal and what size tubing is used for trans cooler lines.

Long story short, when I replaced my engine, installed a trucool 40k cooler, and torque converter.... But I had to temporarily use rubber hosing to get from the radiator to the cooler. The rubber leaks badly at the clamps so I'm going to redo that all in what ever tubing trans cooler lines are.

If I'm following correctly, yours has the factory cooler in the radiator and you added the Trucool inline with it?

The way I'd like to do mine is to get OEM hard lines for a model with the factory separate cooler. This cooler mounts in the same location where everyone puts the Trucool and the connectors are on the bottom just like the factory cooler. The Trucool is wider, so you cut one of the factory lines under a bend, rotate it 180° and reconnect it with a compression union. It'll be just like the factory design, just with that union in place, but that's still better than rubber hose and worm gear clamps.

 

[Rocket Man]

I figured out why my Silverado wouldn’t start after I replaced the cracked dash. Turns out the harness I made for the Escalade cluster could be plugged in backwards. I don’t remember that being possible but whatever. That must have confused the BCM. Now the cluster is dead. FML.

 

[mikeyss]

If I'm following correctly, yours has the factory cooler in the radiator and you added the Trucool inline with it?

The way I'd like to do mine is to get OEM hard lines for a model with the factory separate cooler. This cooler mounts in the same location where everyone puts the Trucool and the connectors are on the bottom just like the factory cooler. The Trucool is wider, so you cut one of the factory lines under a bend, rotate it 180° and reconnect it with a compression union. It'll be just like the factory design, just with that union in place, but that's still better than rubber hose and worm gear clamps.

I was in a time crunch and took my brand new trans lines, cut the rubber portion away from the area the one goes up to the radiator as well as the one that goes out to the cooler. I carefully cut the metal clamps GM uses from the metal to the rubber part, it even has a flare on the metal, which is why I'm surprised I can't get the rubber to seal just using clamps. From there is where I just used rubber to the inlet/outlet of the cooler and onto the trans cooler lines. It was a temporary fix. I just don't know what sort of metal tubing to buy, like is it brake line, fuel line? I want to make my own metal lines going to the cooler and make it factory looking again with the snap in clips and all

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

Have you swapped the upstream sensors around to see if the problem follows?

I noticed it with the original sensors, I can't remember if I swapped those left to right or not, but when I put the brand new sensors in, it was still reading leaner on the driver side.

 

[Doubeleive]

I figured out why my Silverado wouldn’t start after I replaced the cracked dash. Turns out the harness I made for the Escalade cluster could be plugged in backwards. I don’t remember that being possible but whatever. That must have confused the BCM. Now the cluster is dead. FML.

probably burnt a fuse (in the cluster) putting it in backwards, just figure which pin is positive and see if you can trace it. Does it start now with the cluster out? it should unless gm changed something from nbs to nnbs.

 

[George B]

I was in a time crunch and took my brand new trans lines, cut the rubber portion away from the area the one goes up to the radiator as well as the one that goes out to the cooler. I carefully cut the metal clamps GM uses from the metal to the rubber part, it even has a flare on the metal, which is why I'm surprised I can't get the rubber to seal just using clamps. From there is where I just used rubber to the inlet/outlet of the cooler and onto the trans cooler lines. It was a temporary fix. I just don't know what sort of metal tubing to buy, like is it brake line, fuel line? I want to make my own metal lines going to the cooler and make it factory looking again with the snap in clips and all

3/8 or 5/16 brake line would work fine.

 

[gooffeyguy]

I was in a time crunch and took my brand new trans lines, cut the rubber portion away from the area the one goes up to the radiator as well as the one that goes out to the cooler. I carefully cut the metal clamps GM uses from the metal to the rubber part, it even has a flare on the metal, which is why I'm surprised I can't get the rubber to seal just using clamps. From there is where I just used rubber to the inlet/outlet of the cooler and onto the trans cooler lines. It was a temporary fix. I just don't know what sort of metal tubing to buy, like is it brake line, fuel line? I want to make my own metal lines going to the cooler and make it factory looking again with the snap in clips and all

Factory lines are 3/8"