What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Doubeleive]

Man you must be having some fun!


My beater is my old vette in my profile image.

I have a rule, I can have nice tires in the front.
but I can't go crazy with sticky tires in the rear...
Something about being able to spin the tires whenever i want.
IIRC it's a 3200rpm stall, right when the powerband starts to kick in....
If I were to do it over again, I would do a 4k stall...

the D36 I have is a known weak point on these.
Planning to run it until it breaks, but as long as I cheap out on tires I should be fine.
Upgrades are available out of standard transmission, but those go for like 2k last I checked.

I have calmed down quit a bit, used to be pedal to the floor all the time but that gets expensive : for both tickets and repairs
it's also why I like things like lifetime warranty or xxxxxx mile warranty it can come in handy as long as it's not clearly apparent that it was abused
I have been thru a couple transmission shops that refused to warranty because of it

 

[89Suburban]

And this is why I'm rocking clamps from GM, Ford and Honda. All from the salvage yard.

View attachment 363658


My "special" clamp tools:

View attachment 363659

Love this.

 

[gooffeyguy]

Nothing like replacing something that can have 3 points of failure with something that can have 6 points of failure, lol

You'd think for the price they'd be made like the original quick connects, only metal, with o-rings inside and replaceable retainer squeeze clips

 

[gooffeyguy]

You can buy those spring action hose clamps in boxes of 20 in different sizes

The Hillman Group
USA made

 

[iamdub]

Cause I am a broke retard that lives paycheck to paycheck.

Understood. I've never compared the cost of any of the aftermarket options. I just assumed they were all about the same.

 

[iamdub]

I'm going to get some while i have the engine out for the second time.
These are the same size for both of them, correct?

Same size for both three-way connections? Yes.

As for the clamps, I just pulled random ones from under the hoods of various cars and picked the ones that were the tightest of each size.

 

[iamdub]

Nothing like replacing something that can have 3 points of failure with something that can have 6 points of failure, lol

You'd think for the price they'd be made like the original quick connects, only metal, with o-rings inside and replaceable retainer squeeze clips

I get what you're saying.

But the Honda (Pilot?) coolant circuits I pulled some of these from had just as many "potential failure points". The circuit changed from rubber hose to hard pipe and vice versa multiple times. If they let that ride on a vehicle almost guaranteed to get you 300K miles, then it'll get me by just fine. About the only real difference is my connections are concentrated to one area rather than spread around an engine bay.

My tees were $70/shipped, so almost the same price as two OEM tees. Looking back, I would've been fine with new OEM tees. I just thought I'd be digging in the engine bay a lot in the future and highly prone to cracking them.

 

[iamdub]

You can buy those spring action hose clamps in boxes of 20 in different sizes

The Hillman Group
USA made

I almost bought a box. But, a given size in one brand is not necessarily the exact same in another brand. I wanted to compare them in my hand to get the tightest of each particular size.

 

[gooffeyguy]

$70 each, so $140 for the pair? Shit they're $95 each now

 

[George B]

I read horror stories in here about guys fighting the c-clips on this thing so this is not a fix it in the driveway myself option. Working my balls off too so I don't even have the time to do it if I wanted too. I replaced the spider gears on one of my old dodges once. Open diff peg legger did too many burn outs.

I'm hoping it's just like the one on my S10
it uses full-sized axles.
Video i watched on the subject was for a Silverado.
Exact same setup that it has.

There is a bolt in the middle of the carrier.
10mm iirc
you then slide out a big pin that keeps the axles pushed out.
Assuming you can remove that, it's cake.

Push the axles in, then you can see the clip.
I used a magnet tool to grab it.
then the axles slide right out.
everything else comes apart easily.

I have never had trouble getting the C-clips out of a gm rear axle. Even when the retaining pin would break.