What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[gooffeyguy]

Hopefully they're better than Moog's budget line. I had to use one of Moog's budget lower control arms for the left front because their premium line was sold out at the time. 30K later and the ball joint rubber boot is cracking and about to spring a leak. The premium one still looks like new.

That's why I was looking at GM OE parts. I also noticed RockAuto has GM OE lower control arms with ball joints. I replaced the ball joints on my 2011 Denali a month before it got totaled and it wasn't too bad a job but it wasn't easy getting the old ones out. I have the press, but if I remember correctly there was a lot of hitting it with a 3lb hammer to get it out, then the press to get the new one in. Wonder how much easier/harder replacing the entire control arm would be in comparison.

 

[Doubeleive]

Hopefully they're better than Moog's budget line. I had to use one of Moog's budget lower control arms for the left front because their premium line was sold out at the time. 30K later and the ball joint rubber boot is cracking and about to spring a leak. The premium one still looks like new.

This is one of those times when buying OEM or top-of-the-line parts is probably a good idea.

true, I like to buy oem stuff as long as it not a long list of things then it gets pricey

 

[Geotrash]

That's why I was looking at GM OE parts. I also noticed RockAuto has GM OE lower control arms with ball joints. I replaced the ball joints on my 2011 Denali a month before it got totaled and it wasn't too bad a job but it wasn't easy getting the old ones out. I have the press, but if I remember correctly there was a lot of hitting it with a 3lb hammer to get it out, then the press to get the new one in. Wonder how much easier/harder replacing the entire control arm would be in comparison.

In my opinion, full control arms with ball joints already installed is the way to go. I think it's like an extra $50 each. That way you get new bushings, too.

 

[Amaster]

Same thing on mine #7 gets fouled up and throws that code, puts the truck in limp mode. I've had to replace that plug twice in the 50K I have owned the truck. 2nd time around we tried a step up in higher heat range to combat it. So far so good.

Yours throws a code for number 2 miss fire?

 

[gooffeyguy]

Easy peasy. The inner tie rod comes off with a 40mm open end wrench and they also make an inner tie rod removal tool if you're feeling fancy.

Would a big adjustable (Crescent style) wrench work? Largest open end I have is 35mm

 

[89Suburban]

Same thing on mine #7 gets fouled up and throws that code, puts the truck in limp mode. I've had to replace that plug twice in the 50K I have owned the truck. 2nd time around we tried a step up in higher heat range to combat it. So far so good.

I'm sorry I meant just a regular misfire code. I had to track down which cylinder it was.

 

[swathdiver]

Would a big adjustable (Crescent style) wrench work? Largest open end I have is 35mm

Inner tie rod is 36mm! Use a crow's foot with 3/8th drive for most clearance. Used a 15" adjustable wrench (Tekton 23006) on one side and the crow's foot on the other if memory serves. That's wrong, it is 40mm. Thanks for the correction Dave! @Geotrash

Next time I do this work on a 900, I will purchase the J-43631 and J-45851 to separate the lower ball joint and J-42188-B to separate the upper ball joint. Spent hours last time going out to the store to buy a separator and then several more hours modifying it to work and still had to use a dremel to cut part of the ball joint away so it would work. Lot of time wasted.

 

[Geotrash]

Would a big adjustable (Crescent style) wrench work? Largest open end I have is 35mm

Yes, it should

 

[Geotrash]

Inner tie rod is 36mm! Use a crow's foot with 3/8th drive for most clearance. Used an adjustable wrench (Tekton 23006) on one side and the crow's foot on the other if memory serves.

Next time I do this work on a 900, I will purchase the J-43631 and J-45851 to separate the lower ball joint and J-42188-B to separate the upper ball joint. Spent hours last time going out to the store to buy a separator and then several more hours modifying it to work and still had to use a dremel to cut part of the ball joint away so it would work. Lot of time wasted.

Mine was definitely 40mm. I have the wrench to prove it! It’s also perfect for working on computers.

 

[swathdiver]

Mine was definitely 40mm. I have the wrench to prove it! It’s also perfect for working on computers.

You are correct, I was wrong! 40mm it is. @gooffeyguy