And for the record it is definitely sitting higher on the BT drop spindles than with the strut under the LCA flip.
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I'm just going by what my shop always told meI have spindles and struts set for 1.75" drop on the left side and 2" on the right, totaling a 3.5"/3.75" drop (McG spindles are actually 1.75" drop). I aligned mine at home and, 30K+ miles later, my tires have always worn flat and evenly with no feathering or cupping. No pulls and the steering wheel is "centered enough". I could perfect it if I really cared. The only thing that's out is the caster is too positive, which I erred positive due to it being safer than neutral or negative. I'll tweak it when I change my struts.
As for alignment mods, I have the Belltech cams. But, I'm not so sure I'm even beyond the factory adjustment area yet. With @89Suburban's rig being dropped with spindles only, they should easily be able to get everything in the green. They didn't try.
Does the Strut trick keep your Geometry? Why did you end up changing to the spindles vs the strut?And for the record it is definitely sitting higher on the BT drop spindles than with the strut under the LCA flip.
To fix the geometry. You run out of adjustment with the flip and the ball joints are at hard angles.Does the Strut trick keep your Geometry? Why did you end up changing to the spindles vs the strut?
The only thing that puts me off of the spindles is the inability to run 18s. Did you also consider the offset control arms?To fix the geometry. You run out of adjustment with the flip and the ball joints are at hard angles.
The only thing that puts me off of the spindles is the inability to run 18s. Did you also consider the offset control arms?
Maybe that's the issue I was reading about, that if you DONT cut the studs then you get interference problems. 4WD.I have not heard that issue on the 18's. I am running 17's. The BT spindles require you to cut both upper and lower ball joint studs, which feel SO wrong and guilty to do. The lower one to clear the wheel and the upper one to clear the CV shaft.
Are you 2WD or 4wd?
Maybe that's the issue I was reading about, that if you DONT cut the studs then you get interference problems. 4WD.
Or just stay stock ride height. What a PITA.Yup. And even with the top stud trimmed it is TIGHT to the CV. You can't even get a wrench on the damn nut unless you unbolt the CV from the diff and drop it back out of the way. And that top stud/nut blocks the top hub flange bolt.
So I suggest mount the lower stud first, mount your hub, then the top stud. Trim both studs close to the nuts. Sawzall with metal blade goes right through them no problem. Then fish your CV back in.
Ordered up a pair of motors with brackets today and went ahead and grabbed rotors and pads for all four corners while I was at it. After the trip up Pike's Peak and back I've been meaning to order a set so finally did whilst trying not to work much today.Tried replacing the running board motors on Deathscalade but no dice! motors are corroded to the bracket so returning the running board motors and reordering the motors with new brackets which are $$$ I guess this is the perk to driving older stuff but I was hoping I could replace just the motors and not the motor + bracket since the price increase is substantial
/rant