What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Charlie207]

Hemmed and hawwed for a week, but ended up ordering two front 5100s, when I should have just done it a while ago.

IIRC, when I installed the RC leveling kit a while ago one of the front struts wouldn't come out. Even with the three top bolts undone it acted like it was glued into the frame. Should probably start soaking it all now.

 

[jared999]

Back in April my lower shift cable failed. The first attempt at repair was a failure. I tried part# 14104 link bushing by Dorman. Do NOT use those.
The second attempt worked, using Dorman #14073 with a snap ring and washers (spacers) I picked up from Home Depot. After 6 months it started to feel like that plastic was getting weak and might fail.

I went ahead and bought a lower shift cable from rock auto and installed it. It was an easy install. There are a couple videos on YT that are pretty good and several that are not.




Second fix. This was before I decided to put some spacers between the cable loop and the snap ring. I felt the gap would create problems.


Final fix:



For some reason my cowl didn't have a weather strip / gasket when I bought the vehicle. I pulled one from a yard and finally got around to installing it

 

[Doubeleive]

Back in April my lower shift cable failed. The first attempt at repair was a failure. I tried part# 14104 link bushing by Dorman. Do NOT use those.
The second attempt worked, using Dorman #14073 with a snap ring and washers (spacers) I picked up from Home Depot. After 6 months it started to feel like that plastic was getting weak and might fail.

I went ahead and bought a lower shift cable from rock auto and installed it. It was an easy install. There are a couple videos on YT that are pretty good and several that are not.


View attachment 442667

Second fix. This was before I decided to put some spacers between the cable loop and the snap ring. I felt the gap would create problems.
View attachment 442668

Final fix:

View attachment 442669

For some reason my cowl didn't have a weather strip / gasket when I bought the vehicle. I pulled one from a yard and finally got around to installing it

View attachment 442670

View attachment 442671

I used this one and a washer plus a cotter pin it's been fine for over 3 years now

 

[jared999]

View attachment 442683
I used this one and a washer plus a cotter pin it's been fine for over 3 years now
View attachment 442684

Yeah I remember you helping me when I posted the issue back in April. I'm glad its working well for you.

I opted for an oem cable because the original cable lasted 15 years and I had some store credit at rock auto.

 

[Doubeleive]

Annual power steering flush, 13 months to be exact

 

[Charlie207]

Accomplished 2 out of the 3 tasks yesterday.

1. Replaced the passenger running board with a less smashed part.

2. Reverted the Speed Engineering cold intake kit back to OEM. It dramatically lowered the exhaust drone between 1900-2300 rpms going back to the plastic intake with all its Heimholz dingleberries chopping up ugly frequencies. Now I'm curious if I can get away with the other muffler I just removed because it was too droney inside the cabin.

3. The fail was dealing with the exhaust that probably got a little banged up from the trail I was fighting the other day. The tailpipe was touching the bottom of the bumper, and started to melt it. No matter how many times I twisted the sections, it just kept settling back into a position that touched the bumper. The it got too dark to see.

I guess I'll have to come up with a creative way to bend the tailpipe section, or knock off the tip, cut the tailpipe by an inch or two, and reassemble everything.

(My new lug nuts also arrived last night, but I might wait to swap on the winter wheels/tires for a bit; not much snow in the forecast.)

 

[89Suburban]

Dropped it off for inspection and emissions testing.

 

[89Suburban]

Accomplished 2 out of the 3 tasks yesterday.

1. Replaced the passenger running board with a less smashed part.

2. Reverted the Speed Engineering cold intake kit back to OEM. It dramatically lowered the exhaust drone between 1900-2300 rpms going back to the plastic intake with all its Heimholz dingleberries chopping up ugly frequencies. Now I'm curious if I can get away with the other muffler I just removed because it was too droney inside the cabin.

3. The fail was dealing with the exhaust that probably got a little banged up from the trail I was fighting the other day. The tailpipe was touching the bottom of the bumper, and started to melt it. No matter how many times I twisted the sections, it just kept settling back into a position that touched the bumper. The it got too dark to see.

I guess I'll have to come up with a creative way to bend the tailpipe section, or knock off the tip, cut the tailpipe by an inch or two, and reassemble everything.

(My new lug nuts also arrived last night, but I might wait to swap on the winter wheels/tires for a bit; not much snow in the forecast.)

What wheels are those?

 

[Charlie207]

What wheels are those?

Black Rhino Peak (officially discontinued) that came on the car when I bought it. Black Rhino doesn't make them, but you can still find them online: https://tireswheelsdirect.com/product/peak-2/

They allowed 33" BFG KO2s to fit with no lift/level, and no rubbing. You'd need hub-centric spacers due to the huge 120mm wheel bore. The idiot who had the car before me just used the hub studs to support the weight of the vehicle, so I bought some spacers & had them machined to fit (too thick) as soon as I realized what was happening.

 

[Charlie207]

I've also been playing around with the kid's super-basic 3D printer, trying to iterate some replacement center caps for those aftermarket wheels. Black Rhino doesn't sell them any more (I asked) and other companies want $30+ per cap, which is dumb.

My printer only prints in weak PLA, so there is zero flexibility of the part. Even if it fits securely it'll crack at the seams. Once I figure out the correct clip dimensions my buddy said he'd print them on his huge professional 3D printer in whatever the strong filament material is, in a much finer (therefore stronger?) print head resolution.