What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[93blkongreenpro]

http://www.wccaraudio.com/1-channel-neo-terminal.html

Something like that for the box?

Wheww. Not for that price. Im lookimg for a physical quick disconnect. I also have a aftermarket center console sub. So when i need to haul stuff, the DC will come out and I can connect the L7-8. When im not dont need the cargo space (60% of the time), I can connect the DC.

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[93blkongreenpro]

Niiice where did u get that box? Or custom made?

Ebay, surprisingly. Was harder than I thought to find a single 12 ported box for behind the 3rd row.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281998494071

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[Denali2k8]

Wheww. Not for that price. Im lookimg for a physical quick disconnect. I also have a aftermarket center console sub. So when i need to haul stuff, the DC will come out and I can connect the L7-8. When im not dont need the cargo space (60% of the time), I can connect the DC.

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I honestly used insulated male / female connectors on the wires so I could take my box in and out of my silverado. Obviously you would need the right size, but they worked great. And if you crimp opposites on the pos and neg, you can't hook it up wrong (pos side FROM box male, neg side FROM box female). Makes hooking it back up a no-brainer.

 

[iamdub]

My ex-wife had a singe 12" with amp mounted to the box in her Accord. I used a standard replacement 120V plug set for the power, ground and remote. It was a low-power setup that only needed 8 gauge wire, which was the maximum that would fit in the plug ends When we needed to remove the sub box, we just unplugged it and the RCAs and took it away.

Something like these:






If you only need to disconnect the speaker wires but keep them protected from shorting, you could use the non-grounding version of these.

Or, if you want it to be slick, flush-mount something like this into a side panel and run your wires concealed to the amp and run a length of 12 gauge extension cord from the box to the outlet:




I'd look for a black one, though.

 

[93blkongreenpro]

My ex-wife had a singe 12" with amp mounted to the box in her Accord. I used a standard replacement 120V plug set for the power, ground and remote. It was a low-power setup that only needed 8 gauge wire, which was the maximum that would fit in the plug ends When we needed to remove the sub box, we just unplugged it and the RCAs and took it away.

Something like these:






If you only need to disconnect the speaker wires but keep them protected from shorting, you could use the non-grounding version of these.

Or, if you want it to be slick, flush-mount something like this into a side panel and run your wires concealed to the amp and run a length of 12 gauge extension cord from the box to the outlet:




I'd look for a black one, though.

Hmm. That flush one looks neat. I may have to look into that one. Im sure I have a hole saw that size.

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[Tonkatoy]

Cleaned it up and finally got my GMC wheels caps on

 

[osiris94ej]

Wheww. Not for that price. Im lookimg for a physical quick disconnect. I also have a aftermarket center console sub. So when i need to haul stuff, the DC will come out and I can connect the L7-8. When im not dont need the cargo space (60% of the time), I can connect the DC.

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Relays... have a switch to control the 2 relays. One relay per wire. When you flip the switch it will cut signal to one sub so the wires will be dead.(this is if you are using just the one amp on both speakers) Use banana plugs on the speaker wires at the rear enclosure so they won't fray, Or tin them with solder.

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[DaRosa218]

Replaced the Power-liftgate door actuator lock and now my door actually goes up and down by itself as it should!!!! I also just ordered my 1" rear spacers since I leveled my front end and also ordered a 3" Aluminized MBRP Catback which should both arrive Tuesday thanks to Amazon prime. I'll post pics and video as soon as I get them both on. It's nice to see the Suburban finally take shape

 

[93blkongreenpro]

Relays... have a switch to control the 2 relays. One relay per wire. When you flip the switch it will cut signal to one sub so the wires will be dead.(this is if you are using just the one amp on both speakers) Use banana plugs on the speaker wires at the rear enclosure so they won't fray, Or tin them with solder.

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Im thinking. I may do a rc battery connector. Idk yet.

My 2nd row seats are stuck and will mot unlatch so I cant get to the amp.

Also, my battery has been dieing, so I may order an xs power d4800. AutoZome wants $175 for a battery, so why nor spend a little more for a seemingly better battery? I have xs is my protege, so might as well put 1 in the Yukon as well.

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[jyi786]

From my other thread.

This afternoon, I went out with an intent to truly tackle the rattling once and for all. I did not attempt anything from the interior of the vehicle, but focused on the exterior. I focused on the rear left wheel well area first.

1. I removed the liner, and put some felt padding on two nubs that touch the fender.
2. Once underneath, I noticed what looks like an EVAP pipe that goes up the fuel filler area that was flopping around. I was able to make it rattle a bit while flopping it around. I secured it with some zip ties.
3. There is a hard brake line that goes to the rear left wheel, and goes across the differential area. I found that by tapping on it, it hits a crossbar and can rattle. I put some styrofoam padding underneath it as a temporary measure until I can get some rubber piping as a more permanent solution.
4. On the rear right wheel, I put some padding on the wire loop that hold the brake line, as I could tap it and make it rattle. Once again, temporary until I can get some rubber piping.
5. I secured anything that could rattle around with zip ties.

For good measure, I got on the roof, and found the rack bars were a bit loose and not straight. I straightened and tightened them up. After this, I took the truck for a long drive.

Doing all this, the rattling has been substantially lessened!...but not eliminated. I wonder which of these would count as the culprit? Something is telling me that it might be the roof rack bars.

I will be trying this next:
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/2015-yukon-roof-rack-cross-rails.75184/
http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/162069-rattle-in-rear/