What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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mtc1328

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are prices high around there?

I think it was a fair price considering my old wheels retail at the dealer for $495.00 per wheel without the center cap. It just happened that there wasn't a good supply for my immediate demand. I thoroughly scavenged Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace, OfferUp, and three tire shops. Of course, Facebook Marketplace alerted me of a few good sets for a little less after the purchase, but it's a done deal now.
 

juan84

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Figured I'd ask here before creating a dedicated thread...

Presently I'm sitting at stock height front, about a 1.5'ish drop in the rear which has me sitting about dead level eliminating that factory rake.

At some point the plan is to do a 2/3. Doing a 3 on the rear, are the shorter sway bar links needed? I've seen statements both ways. Not needed until 4+, or needed at 3 also.

If the reigning consensus is that even at 3 it's better to have them, is there anywhere to get just the end links? Apparently Tony no longer has/can get the DJM ones. DJM seems to only offer them in a kit. Maybe those two things are related.
I have them on mine at 2/3
e7ce1fa7d86b2708bfc944a3cc57bb2c.jpg


Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk
 

Glisella

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'08 Yukon Denali (so 6.2)

For the passenger side I used a Dorman part # 523-240 (the OEM p/n is 23104735)

For the driver side, there isn't a non-OEM option so I used the OEM one, p/n 23104736.

The driver side mount is a little more difficult to find for some reason, and not sure why Dorman would make one but not the other, who knows. Of the two when removed, my driver side one was definitely more worn out.

Passenger side has two threaded studs that pass through the mount pad on the diff secured by nuts and looks like this:
evrolet-GMC-Truck-SUV-OEM-Front-Right-Differential.jpg


Driver side isn't as flat like the passenger side, is thicker, accepts bolts that pass through the diff carrier case, and looks like this:
n-Escalade-Front-Differential-Carrier-Bracket-Left.jpg

You can buy the four bushings cheaper, but then you have to press them out/in after removing the mounts. A little more expensive, but less work/easier in my opinion to just get the whole brackets.

Not a hard job to do, just a little time consuming (at least for me) getting the driver side bracket out. Less room on that side coupled with a thicker and not exactly flat/straight chunk of metal results in lots of twisting, prying, shifting, raising/lowering of the diff to snake it out. Passenger side is super easy.

Thank you so much and yes, I've looked and couldn't find the driver side. We have same truck so I'll add this to my list of things to do.
 

swathdiver

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Just changed out the passenger side O2 sensor. Can't get at the driver's side from underneath, will have to go in through the wheel well another day as we ran out of light.

Magnaflow Y-Pipe moved the sensor just enough to make removal all but impossible from underneath even with an O2 sensor tool. Previously, I'd never had a problem with a 7/8" wrench; the engineers always left enough room to get a wrench in there to loosen or tighten them.
 

Sam Harris

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Just changed out the passenger side O2 sensor. Can't get at the driver's side from underneath, will have to go in through the wheel well another day as we ran out of light.

Magnaflow Y-Pipe moved the sensor just enough to make removal all but impossible from underneath even with an O2 sensor tool. Previously, I'd never had a problem with a 7/8" wrench; the engineers always left enough room to get a wrench in there to loosen or tighten them.
Weak!
 

BG1988

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600 Mile range club


The maximum MPG out of one of these hybrid is 31.2MPG 764.4 miles range :bleh:

on the way to LA I got 31.2MPG :eek: , on the way back 21.1MPG..

Averaged 26.15 MPG




20190321_160155.jpg

:fuckyea:
 
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