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I followed what @kbuskill went through when he cut his out. It wasn’t a quick and easy fix, but I think he finally got what he wanted. (Albeit with 3 mufflers and an extra 50lbs IIRC)
Yeah they actually know what they’re doing. Also turned off EGR so I could delete it.Then he must have something adjusted in the tune so it doesn't trip the readiness monitor, or spoofs it. Just turning the O2s off won't work
2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18
Yeah, so just getting a tuning device and modifying some parameters usually doesn't cut it. OP doesn't have to worry about emissions testing though, so should be fine.Yeah they actually know what they’re doing. Also turned off EGR so I could delete it.
Hopefully not too bad. Keeping stock muffler and tubing diameter. Will see.
Indifferent on noise, I just don't want it to be obnoxious.
I'm ordering HPTuners so CELs and whatnot will not be an issue. The codes and downstream sensors are getting tuned out. As far as loosing torque down low, I'm skeptical on whether or not that will actually happen. I haven't seen people complain about loosing torque when they put long tubes on.
Uh oh...a Dorman part in a hard to get to place? Sure hope it lasts.Success! replaced the passenger/right side blend door actuator, calibrated and no more codes! I used the dorman 604-106 which replaces the oem # 1572971, both the left and right sides use the same part number, the left is on the bottom, right is on the top.
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