What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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kbuskill

***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
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I followed what @kbuskill went through when he cut his out. It wasn’t a quick and easy fix, but I think he finally got what he wanted. (Albeit with 3 mufflers and an extra 50lbs IIRC)

It wasn't 3 mufflers in the end... I went through 3 mufflers to get to where I am though.

Ended up with a big 3 foot long, 3 chamber, Magnaflow XL muffler and the factory resonator reinstalled to kill the drone.
 

Rocket Man

Mark
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Then he must have something adjusted in the tune so it doesn't trip the readiness monitor, or spoofs it. Just turning the O2s off won't work

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18
Yeah they actually know what they’re doing. Also turned off EGR so I could delete it.
 
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Yeah they actually know what they’re doing. Also turned off EGR so I could delete it.
Yeah, so just getting a tuning device and modifying some parameters usually doesn't cut it. OP doesn't have to worry about emissions testing though, so should be fine.

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18
 

CHOO CHOO

BackPagePhil
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Hopefully not too bad. Keeping stock muffler and tubing diameter. Will see.
Indifferent on noise, I just don't want it to be obnoxious.

I'm ordering HPTuners so CELs and whatnot will not be an issue. The codes and downstream sensors are getting tuned out. As far as loosing torque down low, I'm skeptical on whether or not that will actually happen. I haven't seen people complain about loosing torque when they put long tubes on.

You will lose low end torque. I lost a lot. It's a dog off the line(even if it is 5500lbs), I got a lot of mid-range torque with my longtubes.

Drone is not horrible for me, but the wife hates it. She's used to it now though. You might or might not like it. If you don't, try putting the resonator back on and go from there.
 

avalonandl

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Dashkin is in and I am very pleased with the results/-Looks great- you wouldn't know it's there. I do but wth.... the annoying rattles are gone- only a slight creak from right side. much more pleasant to drive.

Some notes:
2 person job- sliding cap panel in with glue on it.
buy a second tube of rtv- use it because the tbe they give u is not enough. I did but wish I used more of the second tube.
weigh it down- iused a moving blanket and put 4 10lb plate weights and watter bottles.
Let it cure OVERNITE

pics later
 

Doubeleive

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Success! replaced the passenger/right side blend door actuator, calibrated and no more codes! I used the dorman 604-106 which replaces the oem # 1572971, both the left and right sides use the same part number, the left is on the bottom, right is on the top.

IMG_20190807_092210.jpg
 

Rocket Man

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Success! replaced the passenger/right side blend door actuator, calibrated and no more codes! I used the dorman 604-106 which replaces the oem # 1572971, both the left and right sides use the same part number, the left is on the bottom, right is on the top.

View attachment 228325
Uh oh...a Dorman part in a hard to get to place? Sure hope it lasts. :)
 

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