What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Fubar0715]

Off roading, like when taking out street signs?

Cuz Wes didnt touch the brakes! Doing his best to save them, just in case!!!!

 

[alpha_omega]

any recommendations for a battery powered impact that can do lug nuts off & back on?

I’ve used all the big name brands (Milwaukee, Makita, Dewalt, Ridgid) and have had the best luck with Milwaukee. Buy once, cry once with regards to cost. You won’t need their heavy duty version to remove lugs. They will easily come off with the standard impact and a charged 5.0 battery.
My impact is the older generation, so things may have changed since then, but I’ve been happy with their 1/4 & 3/8 speed ratchets, the stubby 3/8 impact and the 1/2 mid-torque impact. The latter of which I’ve used to remove balancer bolts, along with rusted on suspension hardware and cross member bolts.

 

[alpha_omega]

they had a bunch of different combos, some only had the little 2.0 battery, I have a smaller 18v black & decker impact and drill already for the light stuff for as cheap as the B&D stuff is it holds up fine I have a tendency to be rough on tools, I did have one of the black decker impacts go bad on me about a year and a half ago but a replacement was only $20 and I already had the battery and charger it got stripped out internally or something it just quit impacting.

Sounds like the impact wasn’t brushless.
Whichever brand you go with, make sure you get their top tier grade and you shouldn’t have a problem. Milwaukee has a line called “fuel”. There are Milwaukee M12/M18 tools and Milwaukee M12/M18 Fuel. There is a substantial difference. It’s like buying a John Deere lawn mower at big box store vs. buying one at a dealership. Same color, different internal parts.

 

[alpha_omega]

I think you'd be happy. I have all 4 sizes. Everyone I know with milwaukee are happy.

For comparison, just in case you want the big boy 1400 ftlbs. This is surge 1/4" hex, 3/8" compact, 1/2" mid torque, 1/2" high torque.

You and I would be dangerous together. Remind me to never take you with me to do any tool shopping.

 

[alpha_omega]

The free replacement batteries for life is what originally sold me on Ridgid cordless tools many years ago. The batteries are the most expensive part of the kits when you start talking the bigger or higher amp ones. They’ve been great tools. I have used Milwaukee and Bosch at work, Milwaukee is awesome but the most expensive which didn’t matter because the company was responsible. They switched over to Bosch because of price and ended up giving away all the Bosch and buying Milwaukee all over again because the drills were junk (couldn’t tighten the chuck) as well as a few others issues. The Ridgid drill I have tightens on even big ass bits super good, never had the chuck slip. The skilsaw is awesome too as well as the 1/4” impact I have. I was looking at the pics of the new batteries and they look like they’ll fit my existing tools, they say they work on all 18v Ridgid tools. I’m pretty sure Milwaukee’s new batteries won’t fit their older tools. Seems these companies like to change battery designs every few years do you have to buy new batteries, but maybe since Ridgid has to replace them for life they have incentive to keep them the same.

The new Milwaukee batteries will fit their older tools. The only problem with their batteries are the big boys 9.0 and 12.0. They won’t charge on the old chargers and they are the only batteries you want for some of their tools like the worm drive saw, their outdoor power equipment (leaf blower, chainsaw, weed whip). Otherwise you will drain the 5.0 and 8.0 batteries QUICK.
The mid and high torque impact will work with the 5.0 batteries, but their is a night and day difference when you put in a 8.0, 9.0 or 12. The weight of the 12.0 is stupid heavy compared to the tools and can be really awkward. With my M18 tools I run 5.0 in almost everything and 8.0 in the mid-torque.

Every battery and fuel tool I’ve ever had an issue with was replaced no questions asked - same as you with the Ridgid. And like you mentioned, once you commit to one specific brand it’s expensive to switch.

 

[alpha_omega]

Except evap. It will never set, maybe in 2-3 months…

I could never get my Silverado to set that one. After 2 months I registered it in a non -smog county.

Wait what? There are different rules for different counties? It’s not the same across the board for the whole state? Does it matter where you live with regards to which county you register in?

 

[George B]

Wait what? There are different rules for different counties? It’s not the same across the board for the whole state? Does it matter where you live with regards to which county you register in?

Different rules for different counties in WI.

 

[alpha_omega]

Ok…makes perfect sense. And you can then drive across that invisible county line and not require their “stamp of approval” for the tune you just installed, so long as you pay their county for the inspection?

*or more strict rules depending on which direction you drive. Legal extortion, what an interesting racket.

 

[Rocket Man]

Wait what? There are different rules for different counties? It’s not the same across the board for the whole state? Does it matter where you live with regards to which county you register in?

In Oregon, the smog testing is only done in the 2 major metropolitan areas-Portland and Eugene. Outside of those cities, there’s no requirement. Our neighbor to the north, Washington, quit testing altogether last year. They said cars are now clean enough that they don’t need to be tested. California should take note. And no, it doesn’t matter where you live here. It matters where the vehicle is registered. I can use my brothers address to register my trucks to, and since I’m the owner they send the paperwork and tags to me at my home. There’s an option to send the paperwork to either location, as well as a one-time option so you can have them sent anywhere at the time of registration.

 

[Professor L Gee]

Does that lock tab look just like my pic before you push it in? The bottom of it should touch the trim before you push it in. If it does, and still doesn’t look right then it must not be the right part.

It does. So it's probably not in spec.