Monz11
Full Access Member
Been researching short blocks, bc who knows what's inside and can be used. Seems Thompson has best price for a forged block at 800 hp!
Now hv to figure out if tranny will hold...another PITA!
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
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Now hv to figure out if tranny will hold...another PITA!
RooTBeeRthe1st
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Forged block? You must be going for big power!
I know you built that engine, where was the original block sourced from? and was it modified?
Monz11
Full Access Member
Yes, i had it bored out. It was original block less than 150k, b4 mod
Monz11
Full Access Member
Forged internals...looking at an aluminum instead of iron, so it's not so bloody heavy
might look for a 6.0 from a hybrid. the whole trucks can be found cheap on market place over the afm failures or hybrid battery dying and not being worth fixing. both go out about the same time and makes its but really worth fixing one without replacing the other.
aluminum block, never been abused, enough bore to take either style head. has higher compression pistons, but you'll be using new pistons anyways.
seen them practically giving them away non running.
Monz11
Full Access Member
Thanks, but probably going to end up buying a short block, most of the internals are probably toast...
Cheaper than parting out, machine work, building, etc. And I'm NOT doing it this time!
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Scrappycrow
Full Access Member
Just finished installing a Diode Dynamics SS3 LED Fog Light Kit, "Pro" level, with the amber lenses swapped out for clear "SAE driving" lenses. The LEDs are 4K white if you order an amber set, and are 6K white if you order a clear set; I wanted the 4K color temperature, thus the amber set with the lens swap.
They're aimed parallel to the road surface, which makes for a bit more foreground lighting than I'd like, but the mounts can't go more than 1° up relative to the truck body without modifying them (my truck has a 1° nose-down rake with a driver and full tank of gas, so they're already aimed 1° up relative to the truck body).
I haven't modified the wiring yet, as I don't like the "piercing" type of tap that everyone uses. With the high beam relay being a PCB relay and the fog light relay being a regular plug-in one, it's making it more difficult than other vehicles that have all plug-in relays. EDIT to clarify #1: I'm not referring to connecting the lights to the vehicle harness, I'm referring to modifying the wiring so the driving lights come on with the high beams. Edit to clarify #2: I'm talking about the schematics of the functioning (i.e. how the circuit and components would be drawn on a diagram), not the principles of making wiring connections.
BTW, this is what's up with the driver-side headlight assembly. I just haven't done anything more with the headlights after getting my modifications functional on that side.
(sorry for the shaded pics, but you get the idea)
They're aimed parallel to the road surface, which makes for a bit more foreground lighting than I'd like, but the mounts can't go more than 1° up relative to the truck body without modifying them (my truck has a 1° nose-down rake with a driver and full tank of gas, so they're already aimed 1° up relative to the truck body).
I haven't modified the wiring yet, as I don't like the "piercing" type of tap that everyone uses. With the high beam relay being a PCB relay and the fog light relay being a regular plug-in one, it's making it more difficult than other vehicles that have all plug-in relays. EDIT to clarify #1: I'm not referring to connecting the lights to the vehicle harness, I'm referring to modifying the wiring so the driving lights come on with the high beams. Edit to clarify #2: I'm talking about the schematics of the functioning (i.e. how the circuit and components would be drawn on a diagram), not the principles of making wiring connections.
BTW, this is what's up with the driver-side headlight assembly. I just haven't done anything more with the headlights after getting my modifications functional on that side.
(sorry for the shaded pics, but you get the idea)
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my ss3 max plugged right in, no taping or cutting anything
Scrappycrow
Full Access Member
Yes, they did plug right in with no taping or cutting anything. However, I'm not running them as fogs, I am running them as driving lights, so I need to modify the wiring so they'll come on with the high beams.
As I mentioned above, I'm not a fan of "piercing" modifications like Scotch-loks, so I'm not going with the Fleece unit.
